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#21
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Man that would totally suck to wait I haven't been able to drive my car all summer because of doing my suspension and rear end and a vacation in-between. I'm the kind of car guy that will lose interest in a project if it's down to long, that's why I like to drive my projects. QP sure didn't mention needing a new driveshaft and I would be PISSED if that's the case. The 4L80E isn't in my budget to complete the install on until end of Nov or Dec
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1969 Pontiac Firebird |
#22
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I get the not wanting to wait. Really I should have ordered the 1350 yoke for the rear end before I had my shaft shortened. But I was already in the shop and wasnt willing to wait a week for a part and then drive another 2 hours to the driveline shop again a week later. He advised me that with my power levels I would only mildly have to sweat with the solid joint. Whereas with the conversion joint I would have to sweat buckets.
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1967 Firebird 462 580hp/590ftlbs 1962 Pontiac Catalina Safari Swapped in Turd of an Olds 455 Owner/Creator Catfish Motorsports https://www.youtube.com/@CatfishMotorsports |
#23
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Hmmm, well the factory one was hollow, it's has a zerk fitting right on it. But I could see how solid ones would be for sure stronger like in a drag racing application and what I would want.
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1969 Pontiac Firebird |
#24
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Quote:
Just within the first gen F-body there are a multitude of driveshaft lengths depending on the axle used and the transmission optioned, across two different cars. I'm hard pressed to fault QP for not knowing exactly if your driveshaft will fit or not. I went through this same deal with Moser and it's just something that can't be known. There's far too many variables involved. Their lack of service to you is concerning, but in this specific case here, that just comes down to hot-rodding. If you absolutely wanted everything to be as it is stock, you had the option to build the 10 bolt that was in the car. But you may get lucky. Measure the difference in depths before you toss the rear end in. If you're within an 1/8th inch or so either way, you're probably fine. The further you get away from that you start risking issues with an improper length driveshaft. So at that point you can either spend the money twice to have something to drive right away, or wait a couple months and pay for the driveshaft once.
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-Jason 1969 Pontiac Firebird |
#25
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I had no idea there were so many differences in the driveshaft within the same model.
Hopefully, I get lucky then!
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1969 Pontiac Firebird |
#26
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I think its a 4 speed shaft. Ive been meaning to offer it for sale again.
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1967 Firebird 462 580hp/590ftlbs 1962 Pontiac Catalina Safari Swapped in Turd of an Olds 455 Owner/Creator Catfish Motorsports https://www.youtube.com/@CatfishMotorsports |
#27
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That I get because of tail shaft lengths. But the position of the pinion yoke should be constant I would think.
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1969 Pontiac Firebird |
#28
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The problem is the case itself, or in the case of you 9”, the third member. The different types of axles have different depth center sections so by necessity the driveshaft length changes.
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-Jason 1969 Pontiac Firebird |
#29
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I thrashed for 8 hours tonight and got the new leafs and rear in. Turns out the driveshaft is about 1.5" too short Also the driver's side leaf spring plate (using the stock one) hits the e-brake mechanism and the dowel pin holes on the rear were too small. For as the e-brake hitting, I have no choice but to call QP and see what they can do about it. Can't have my leaf binding up against it.
Looks like I won't be driving until the new tranny is in and I get the new driveshaft made.
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1969 Pontiac Firebird |
#30
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Probably better off that way and you'll be happier on the long run.
Do you have a local driveline shop handy? I use one up the street here that builds all the driveshafts for me that's been in business about 40 years and very knowledgeable. Does all the off road desert racing trucks throughout the South West here. On the solid joint deal, that is usually recommended by the shop I use, even in street car applications that are driven but make some HP. Factory joints weren't serviceable either and they generally lasted 100k miles without problems on the cars I've owned. So that's the route I usually go these days. He just built me a driveshaft a couple months back good for 600 HP, seamless steel tube slightly larger in diameter than stock, 1330 solid joints, for under $300. So it's not a huge expense. He'll be building a bigger 1350 piece for my father next week. Slightly more in cost, but stronger. Sounds like you have some rearend issues to deal with though first. Quick Performance has always been pretty good but as with anything, there is always a kink in the armor somewhere. |
#31
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As an FYI, the 9" axle tubes are larger in diameter, so the shock plates will need to be modified, and you will need larger U bolts.
What's the depth of the leaf mounts on the housing? And are you running mono or multi-leaf springs? If you can, post a pic of the calipers and caliper brackets, or maybe list the brand and part number of the brake kit. .
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. 1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624 1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be |
#32
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I do have 1 place in my town that I've heard is pretty good that I planned on using.
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1969 Pontiac Firebird |
#33
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The u-bolts that came with my Hotchkis springs fit no problem. The stock plates only needed to be modified in terms of making the holes just a tiny bit larger. The leaf mounts on the housings, no idea the depth. All I know is they are the reinforced ones for CalTracs. My Hotchkis are multi. This is the kit that came with the rear end package: https://www.quickperformance.com/For...it_p_7973.html Now that I look at it the next day in the daylight with a clear mind, I think the e-brake hitting the leaf bracket is because the pinion yoke is down rotating the rear end forward because of no driveshaft and I haven't tightened the u-bolts yet. Hopefully, I'll be fine clearance wise once everything is in place with the proper pinion angle.
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1969 Pontiac Firebird |
#34
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Although I have no ordered the same exact thing you have, I've been a customer of Quick Perf for a long time, and always been pleased. Sorry to hear you're having difficulties, but you will be happy in the long run I suspect.
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Clutch Guys Matter _______________________________________ 53 Studebaker, 400P/th400/9" 64 F-85 72 4-4-2 Mondello's VO Twister II 84 Hurst/Olds #2449 87 Cutlass Salon 54 Olds 88 sedan |
#35
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Just to toss it out here, when you have the new shaft made, just have them use a Ford end on the shaft on the rear side, and it will be easy to source 'regular' u-joints (not conversions).
.
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. 1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624 1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be |
#36
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A good driveline shop will match their end of the joint with the yoke you are using and make the shaft accordingly. That actually should be a question he asks you when you show up with your measurements.
It's actually cheaper to do so. Those darn "adapt-a-joints" as we call them, are expensive compared to the conventional joints. |
#37
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I got a hold of QP again today about the wrong brake Calliper. The second person I spoke was great this time and they got me the correct one hopefully, out FedEx today.
I did manage to get the driveshaft connected last night, once the car is one the ground it only pulls the yoke out maybe a half inch further than it was stock. Thanks everyone for the help!
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1969 Pontiac Firebird |
#38
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Before you drive the car anywhere I would suggest putting the car on jacks and allowing the suspension to fully drop. See how much your slip yoke is out and if possible get a measurement on how much spline engagement you have.
The last thing you want is to be driving down the road and drop the shaft which becomes a poll-vault.
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-Jason 1969 Pontiac Firebird |
#39
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Good suggestion, thank you. I will do that.
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1969 Pontiac Firebird |
#40
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I took this pic, how does this look? This is with the rear suspension fully extended. I'd estimate there is still more than half of the yoke in the tail shaft.
Think I can get by until I do my trans swap?
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1969 Pontiac Firebird |
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