[PontiacMatt72]

I want to make my 70 GTO more of a daily driver quality car. Translation - more comfortable and a little safer. Not interested in racing, just a fun cruiser quality car I can drive comfortably for hours at a time. Here’s a list of possible upgrades I’d like to do to get it there.

Short-term goals:
Aluminum radiator
Vintage Air A/C
Borgeson 800130 steering gear box
Fuel injection (Holley Sniper, probably)
Three point retractable seat belts (Wesco)
LED headlights and taillights
12 bolt rear (3.55 gears, truetrac differential)
Tremec TKX
TMI Products seats

Long-term goals:
Complete suspension upgrade (pro-touring style)
Engine upgrades (goal of 500 hp with 400cid non-stroker)
Speaker upgrades
“Bigger” wheels (thinking 19” or 20” rears, and prob 18” on front)

In terms of safety and comfort (short-term goals), what am I missing?

[Scarebird]

I did a few of those on my 71 (link).

The shoulder belts, American Autowire harness and 600 Series steering box are some of the bigger things. I regret not doing the LS swap.

[Charlie Brengun]

For safety there may an arguement to make to do your suspension and brakes first and then do the go fast (engine, trans etc) mods..
For comfort or less road noise maybe add sound deadening material alll over the place (in the cabin, trunk under the hood etc)..

[PontiacMatt72]

This car was rebuilt/restored about 6 years ago, but essentially to original condition. It was for my dad, and that was what he wanted. Then he lost interest and never drove it, and wanted me to have it. I want to enjoy it with my young family (wife and toddler) for years to come, hence the importance for safety and comfort.

It does have newer brakes all around, front disk rear drum. I plan to add rear disks to the 12 bolt rear. the suspension is “rebuilt” with original style components but just doesn’t handle as good as I would like. (Even with a healthy front sway bar and a rear sway bar). Sound deadening is definitely on the radar as well.

[Half-Inch Stud]

Well, things i did to open the 68 GTO for long trips:

87 Octane fueled 470 CID, Holley 1050(non-cork fuel bowl gaskets) on Dual-plane. Flat HYD cam.
HEI with low resistance button. (Remote module assy to firewall to install soon)
4-Wheel PDB using G-body Master CYL, 70 Front Disc, 84 Rear Calipers, 79 Rear Hats.
PS using 69-70 BOX.
70 Rear Sway Bar and Boxed lowers. HD Springs. Rally IIs for assured Lugnut tightness.
Low Fuel Warning, Oil Pressure Light with Rally Gauge
OD Gear On Floor Shifter, Dash Toggle and Speedo-Alert setting (Automatic 3-4, 4-3 !)
95 Analog Lincoln Stereo Cassette, Speakers, wiring, 68 power Rear Antenna switch.
Garmin GPS <===== do it now.
Trunk: Twine, cables, Jumpbox, 2-Qts Oil, trans Fluid.
Tire gauge in glovebox.
(<no spare anti-freeze?)
(No mechanical fan? yet.)
Removed AC compressor... have not needed AC, strangely.

[Formulajones]

I don't think you're missing anything. My wife and I daily drive ours and use them pretty much the way the factory delivered them and find them to drive perfectly fine and be plenty comfy for long trips as is.

We've added a few of the things you mentioned like overdrives for better fuel mileage, LED lights so we can see better at night. Other than that pretty happy with the cars. Anything you add above and beyond is just icing on the cake. Do what makes you feel good about it and enjoy

[Paul E]

Not that hard to do I put a rear camera on the license plate mount and display on my radio. If factory radio kits are out there for the video display on the rear view mirror. I also added a cruise control for trip and used a Rostra aftermarket. Not needed but I am very happy with my Hydroboost brakes (junkyard Avalanche). I also put in a Fays2 Watts link in the rear. Required a Nova fuel tank for room. What ever you do make sure that you try and only do something once. saves time, money and frustration.

[OG68]

With the toddler you will need rear shoulder belts for the child seat. Easy to do and it was a factory option.

[Brianbigoats]

I am currently doing alot of those to my 69 however I am opting to do suspension and brakes before i put the TKX in. The LED taillights were a major upgrade they are very easy to see now

[vertigto]

I'm in-process with the following upgrades on my 70:

Cold Case aluminum radiator
GMB aluminum water pump with cast impeller
Original Air A/C and VDO blower motor
Borgeson 800130 steering gear box
DUI HEI and Taylor 8.2mm Thundervolt wires
BMR tubular upper/lower A arms with tall ball joints
BMR rear upper adjustable control arms
Right Stuff 4 wheel disc big brake kit with stainless lines
Viking coilover front/rear
UMI rear shock tower brace
PST body mounts
Polyurethane bushings
Original 400 (403hp/482tq) rebuilt (forged Icons/SCAT H beams)
Original Qjet rebuilt
Oversized RARE exhaust manifolds
2 .5" H pipe exhaust with 40 series Flowmasters
Original TH400 rebuilt with heavy duty sprag and shift kit
Auburn Pro limited slip differential with original 3.23s
Retrosound stereo with JL 4x10/6x9s
1 gauge battery cables with RA + cable insulator tube
Powermaster GM 12si-Style 100 amp alternator
Powermaster Hi Torque starter with RA heat shield
FatMat insulation
Rally gauges
18" US Mags Rambler (gunmetal) wheels and Nitto NT555 G2 tires

I'm sure there are a couple more that I've forgotten...

[HWYSTR455]

The 'best' upgrade I ever did was the ATS spindles. I tried the CPP ones on the 442, utter failure, can read my thread on it.

Sound deadening is a biggie too. You have to use both, the 'vibration' mat, and the heat barrier.

I had issues with the valving on the Borgeson box, and ended up with a reman 600 from ames. The 'bird has a Flaming River 600 box.

The RightStuff lower tubular arms are fine, just replace the ball joint. There is a considerable advantage in geometry in the Global West uppers, and I've tried them all, except BMR.

Both A-bodies drive like new cars, people who ride with me can't believe it, it's that good.

You can check my build threads and other threads, I documented a lot here, and on the oldsmobile site for the 442.

.

[RocktimusPryme]

I felt a lot better about my 67 after I put in generic shoulder harness'.

Low cost but big deal.

I spent about $300 in replacing all my steering components (tie rods etc) then got a professional alignment. Car went from kinda scary to drive to fun to drive.

[RocktimusPryme]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

The RightStuff lower tubular arms are fine, just replace the ball joint. There is a considerable advantage in geometry in the Global West uppers, and I've tried them all, except BMR.


.

Not to thread hijack but that is good info.

Is the best bang for the bunch move to spend the money on the GW uppers and then generic ebay lowers?

[Tom Vaught]

I left my 64 GTO alone for 50 years, not real upgrades except in the 2nd and 3rd Muncie 4 speed trans and the three 8.2" 10 bolt rears and the one 12 bolt rear. The engine was basically a over-bored original 389 348 HP Tri-Power engine with factory 716 heads and a few Camshafts and lifters/exhaust headers, intake systems, over the years.

Then I bought the 9" Ford A-Body Housing from Jim Butler, bought the Tom Lee Steering box, bought the 12" 1LE spindles, the Global West Upper control arms, I put later NOS factory Lower control arms on the car as they had the larger shock hole (bigger shock tube diameter) vs the 64 shock hole in the lower control arm. That was in my "fix the steering and suspension" days. I also replaced the stock 64 A-Body convertible frame with a much stronger (like NOS) frame from a low mileage 1966 convertible GTO.

Then I helped a guy with his 64 GTO Coupe when he wanted to go faster and we ordered a lot of new at the time 455 engine parts, low mileage block, edelbrock aluminum heads, different camshaft, Tri-Y headers, stainless larger diameter exhaust, VOE mufflers from the Hand Family, fresh excellent front and rear bumpers, and all new brake and fuel system components.

The last step has been the Explorer Rear Disc Brakes that bolt on the 9" rear, and the custom Sebring Convertible 3 point seats adapted to the factory floor mounts. The floor boards and the trunk floor were exchanged for new parts about 15 years ago.

So the last steps will be adding a Hydro-boost brake system to go with the potential T-Trim Vortech supercharger blowing into the EFI NASH/warrior Intake system.
The engine has a Factory 455 crank, good eagle rods, and TRW Pistons. It has been balanced.

So I a lot of safety mods to go along with a larger STREET engine that should last my son's lifetime.

Sorry for the long post but you can see that there were a lot of good parts out there years ago to improve the A-Body vehicles. Today there is a lot of knock-off crap that
I would never put on my vehicle. Still have not decided on a EFI computer for the car.
I will run Holley carbs and a BG Tri-Power intake until I decide to go Modern EFI.

Tom V.

ps My Sebring Chrysler 3 point seats had to pass all modern safety Crash Tests before the vehicles could be sold.
Don't jerry rig the safety stuff. 1967 standards are not 2015 standards but are better than nothing. what I did on my 64 vehicle would directly apply to a 1970 GTO.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by RocktimusPryme

Not to thread hijack but that is good info.

Is the best bang for the bunch move to spend the money on the GW uppers and then generic ebay lowers?

Yes. Since the knock offs come as a set of uppers & lower, you can sell the uppers to offset the cost of the GW uppers.

Exactly what I did on the 442.

.

[indymanjoe]

These are the rear seat belts i'm going to order. Someone at a Pontiac show had them and he gave me the name. they looked real nice. fwiw

https://www.morrisclassic.com/collec...int-seat-belts

[PontiacMatt72]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

The 'best' upgrade I ever did was the ATS spindles. I tried the CPP ones on the 442, utter failure, can read my thread on it.

The RightStuff lower tubular arms are fine, just replace the ball joint. There is a considerable advantage in geometry in the Global West uppers, and I've tried them all, except BMR.

I intend to dig up your old threads, but for sake of documenting here - do you recall part numbers for the “ATS spindles”?

And which global west upper control arms did you use - the “standard” (CTA-42A) or “negative roll” version (CNR-423)? I’m also eyeballing the global west steering knuckle, claims to virtually eliminate bump-steer.

[64speed]

If it would not absolutely wreck the vibe of my car I would have an Apple CarPlay head unit under the dash

[NeighborsComplaint]

Originally Posted by 64speed

If it would not absolutely wreck the vibe of my car I would have an Apple CarPlay head unit under the dash

Installing one in my glove compartment is on my to-do list this year. Have speakers for the rear deck and components up front going in aftermarket kick panels with speaker openings already molded in. Also have a low profile sub for under the back seat. When i installed my sound deadening I pulled all the wiring needed before the carpet went down to finish later.

To the OP, the upgrade to the suspension and brakes is a major improvement. I did the Jeep box conversion w. a reman box and replaced every front and rear suspension component including front swaybar and also installed one in the rear. I installed tubular control arms front and back, upper and lower. I like a bit more compliance in the ride so I went with KYB shocks for less teeth chattering. I installed inexpensive sound deadening (Frost King foil faced foam) throughout including under and behind the back seats and under the package tray.

If I planned long cruises, aftermarket or modern seats would be my choice. Despite new seat foams and adding variable density seating area foam, the seats still feel like a cheap box spring mattress. New buckets would be a bigger improvement to comfort than all the suspension parts in the world.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by PontiacMatt72

I intend to dig up your old threads, but for sake of documenting here - do you recall part numbers for the “ATS spindles”?

And which global west upper control arms did you use - the “standard” (CTA-42A) or “negative roll” version (CNR-423)? I’m also eyeballing the global west steering knuckle, claims to virtually eliminate bump-steer.

Speedtech bought ATS, and market the spindles exclusively. Lots of people had their' hands in that project. Speedtech sells the A-Body spindles, which are considered 'tall' spindles, and as the name applies, are for A, F, X, and G bodies. Only real difference is the steering arm, which is specific to each body. Not sure why they don't offer the F steering arm without buying their' control arm kits, but Doug from Global West basically designed all the steering arms.

https://speedtechperformance.com/pro...evelle-a-body/

I use the CTS-42 ones which are basically the ones designed for the ATS spindle. If you use the GW spindles, you would use the CNR arm. The GW spindles are nice, but they use standard inner/outer bearings. That was intentional, because you can use a handful of different spindles/brake combos. Doug's intention was to base off the wilwood hubs, and OE, so you don't have to take the big dive upgrading brakes to use the spindles. (and still have a path for big brakes). The GW spindles are an excellent option.

If you look into the 'AFX' spindles you will find they have the same claims as 'eliminating bumpsteer', and the GW spindle geometry is basically the same. (I think they both use the same geometry but unsure. Both are Doug's design(s)).

I think Doug sells his too as a kit only, and are here:

https://www.globalwest.net/kit423-ne...1-spindle.html

Pretty sure GW offers F body spindles-only, opposite of what SpeedTech does. Odd. Maybe it's a 'professional arrangement', not sure.

.