[myckee]

Originally Posted by Socrates

Um, what in the world do stock rods have anything to do with anything here? I run aftermarket rods in my junk for a good decade+, I've suggested others do the same. I'm confused.

I found your single source reference for the Monte Carlo CS144 explosion (without picture proof to be found):

http://www.montecarloss.com/communit...&Number=493219

He said he shifted his 8 second 1/4 race only car at 8,000RPMs. Can't say I know too many Pontiac guys shifting at 8K. In fact, anything much over 6K is pretty exotic for the typical long stroke dump truck engines most guys here will build.

Again, do as you wish. It's your towing bill or (cough) your metalwork to pay for, no one else's. We all spend our own money and take our own chances. Though please do come back after a few weeks or months of use and tell us where you got stranded if and when the alternator goes into thermonuclear meltdown from ditching the OEM engineered, superiorly designed modern cooling fan for a 50+yr old relic...

I agree, you are confused. I'm happy you were able to find the link I posted above.

How many RPM is the alternator turning at when the engine is turning 6000 rpm? I guarantee it is faster; unless you have a 1 inch diameter crank pulley. Some Pontiacs have 8" crank pulleys. Please share your knowledge of pulley diameters and ratios GM used while testing, RPMs, heat tests etc.

As well please post the tests which show it to be of a superior design as opposed to a cost saving one? I'm waiting with bated breath. lol

[BILTIT]

Originally Posted by BILTIT

Which pigtail would i need for my car (74 ventura) from the bottom of this page?

http://www.alternatorparts.com/CS-144_Special_offer.htm

Anybody have any thoughts on which one i would need?

[myckee]

It depends if you are using a dash light or not. If you are using a light, which the alt senses as resistance, and thus turns itself 'on', you would use D1-W1201. If you have no warning light hooked up, then you would use D1-W1204. It has resisters in the wires which the alt senses instead of the dash light and excites itself.

Interestingly, back to the plastic fan topic, I was perusing Rock Auto's catalogue today and all of the truck applications (that I checked) come with the steel fans, regardless of model number whether it is a cs130 or cs144 etc. This cursory research shows only the cars and mini vans had the plastic fans, and the alts used in heavier duty applications used steel, "50+ year old relic" fans.

[BILTIT]

I ask because i dont think i have ever seen a car WITHOUT an idiot light for the alt. Not sure if im missing something i guess.

Yes i have an ''alt.'' light so i guess that answers my question.

[paint guy]

Originally Posted by JSchmitz

I had a chrome steel alternator fan fly apart on me. It was at about 5,000 engine rpm's. It put two real nice dents in my perfectly straight '64 GTO hood. It left a small chunk still between the pulley and the shoulder on the shaft. So, the pulley didn't even come loose. It also cut one of the fan belts about half way through. I was about 2-1/2 hours from home. I drove it home with no failure. I found an old body man who shrunk the dent completely out! I was amazed! The chroming process makes parts brittle. No more chrome alternators for me thanks. I have a plastic fan now.

the chroming process can make parts brittle(called hydrogen embrittlement).A simple heat cycle in an oven will cure the problem.Any good chrome-plater knows this.

[myckee]

Originally Posted by BILTIT

I ask because i dont think i have ever seen a car WITHOUT an idiot light for the alt. Not sure if im missing something i guess.

Yes i have an ''alt.'' light so i guess that answers my question.

Well originally my car had a volt light in the standard gauge cluster, but when I swapped it out for the T/A gauges, there was no light that I recall; just the volt gauge. I have since changed over to all Auto Meter guages and have no light, although it would be a good idea to have to bring attention to the gauge should the fan belt break or something. So in my case I guess I would have to use the resister type.

[JSchmitz]

Originally Posted by paint guy

the chroming process can make parts brittle(called hydrogen embrittlement).A simple heat cycle in an oven will cure the problem.Any good chrome-plater knows this.

Well, the people that chromed that alternator didn't know it. One of the front bearing support legs cracked also.

I learned about chrome causing embrittlement in airframe and powerplant school. Chroming aircraft parts, especially a propeller, is a big no-no.

Here's a good read on the subject: http://www.moldmakingtechnology.com/...es/040208.html

[1967Tempest]

I keep hearing belt slippage. With higher amp alternators. I am curious to how it would sound. Is that in just race cars? I haven't had any issues with my 140A, but I keep hearing slippage.

My belt have almost 180* of coverage on the pulley.

[HWYSTR455]

Can't always HEAR belts slipping. There is some simple math involved, load vs. belt contact area, though it doesn't tell the whole story. I've had a perfectly good alt not charge to par because a belt was slipping, and you couldn't hear anything. IMO, always change the belt when replacing the alt, regardless if it looks good or not.

V-belts have a limit, the contact area/load thing, and in my experience, 140a is that limit (load). Even at 140a, the belt slips, and it has to be replaced often. One good way to monitor is with a volt gauge, and when you see that the 'normal' steady-state volts seem to be slightly lower than usual, it's usually the belt slipping.

The best solution is to go to serpintine, then you can run any amp alt you want.

Chrome alts also retain heat, and cook diodes/regulators, etc, early. Powermaster used to offer a coated (black) alt that was supposed to dissipate heat better, not sure if they still do, or if it offered any gain.

To one-wire or not, now that one takes a little homework....


.

[BILTIT]

No to one wire. Also keep in mind the CS-144 (possibly the 130 too?) had temperature compensation built into the alt from the factory. It lowers the charge when its hot out and ups it when its cooler for the batteries health.

I think the 130 has it as i notice with my 93 chevy that it will run at 14v when first started and for a good 20 mins then drops down to say 13v when everything is warm.

Usually slippage will happen when first started as the alt goes to full charge for a fraction of a second.

I think 100A is the limit for v-belts, after that its dicey. All depends if you ever use the full 140 charge or not.

[1967Tempest]

I have the 140A on a v-belt now. I will have to change the belt!! Keep the one I have on there now as a back-up. I am not sure as I am using all 140 but definitely more than 100A.

Thanks!!

[myckee]

Well, I just scored a rebuilt 100A CS130 for $19.79 on ebay. I wish I had found it before I ordered my 140A CS144 from Rock Auto the day before yesterday! Oh well for twenty bucks and free shipping I couldn't resist so I guess I'll have a spare.

Anyway You too can get a good deal on either a AC DELCO 105A CS130 (part# 3342328) or a Beck/Arnley (part# 1866183) 140A CS144 from rock auto. The CS130 is $44, no core needed and the CS144 is $78, also no core needed.

If you want to look them up yourselves:
$44 CS130: 1991 Pontiac Grand Am 2.5L {3 left at time of posting}
$78 CS144: 1995 Buick Riviera 3.8L {11 left at time of posting}

[BILTIT]

Hmmm, looks like they ship to canada too. Shipping is abit but i will have to check them for parts more often. The CS-130 is ~$85USD with shipping but thats still cheaper than anywhere around here. I paid $100 for a used CS-144 from the wreckers.

I bought a CS-130 from them.

I replaced the CS-130 in my truck a few weeks ago and it was $135 i think from NAPA.

[myckee]

Yes they do ship to Canada. However, I am lucky enough to only live 45 minutes from the border, so I just have things shipped to the UPS Store just on the other side of the border, and then go down and pick it up. It cost $13 for shipping to the UPS store, then I pay $5 to the UPS store for holding the package. Not a bad deal.

If you live close to the border, it is a great option to be able to ship there.

[BILTIT]

Unfortunatly i dont live anywhere near the border.

[Blue '66]

Originally Posted by myckee

Well, I just scored a rebuilt 100A CS130 for $19.79 on ebay. I wish I had found it before I ordered my 140A CS144 from Rock Auto the day before yesterday! Oh well for twenty bucks and free shipping I couldn't resist so I guess I'll have a spare.

Anyway You too can get a good deal on either a AC DELCO 105A CS130 (part# 3342328) or a Beck/Arnley (part# 1866183) 140A CS144 from rock auto. The CS130 is $44, no core needed and the CS144 is $78, also no core needed.

If you want to look them up yourselves:
$44 CS130: 1991 Pontiac Grand Am 2.5L {3 left at time of posting}
$78 CS144: 1995 Buick Riviera 3.8L {11 left at time of posting}

Is the CS 144 from Rock Auto new or rebuilt?

[BVR421]

rebuilt at that price

also if you can find a current rockauto discount code from someone who has recently made a purchase its 5-10% usually enough to pay postage

folks on www.classicalpontiac.com Q&A forum often call for and post up those discount codes.

[BILTIT]

More info:

http://photos.imageevent.com/durango...%20Install.pdf

[myckee]

Oh thats too bad. I didn't know about the discount codes. Oh well, I guess I'll have one to share once I pick my package up. If you google it you will find some codes also.

[Joel Koontz]

I have been using a CS 130 for about 10 years and it has worked great!

When I got it I asked a local alternator shop about durability issues. He said that some of them do have some overheating/bearing problems, but he said that this was virtually always in cars that had the alternator mounted down low and crowded by other parts limiting airflow in/out of it. He said that when it is located up high (like a stock Pontiac V8) they tend to be very durable.

I has performed great and I have had ZERO problems with it.

Link to some good alternator info:
http://oljeep.com/gw/alt/edge_Altern...html#Section_3