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#1
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Offset camber bars
How often are these used/needed? I am about to renew all front suspension bushings, possibly ball joints, and add rubber spacers under (over?) the front coils. My ProStar wheels w/3-1/2 backspacing really need 4-inches but they don't make 'em like that. Sometimes the left front tire (205x75x15) rubs the wheelwell. I have 9-3/4-inches of height @ the rocker panel @ the door hinge. Alignment has always been good w/1/4 - 5/16 shims at all points, car tracks and brakes straight.
Now is the time to install the offset camber bars but I will pray that I really don't/won't need them. Are these rubber donuts from Summit a good way to increase the height of my front end? (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/g...tiac/model/gto) Should they be installed on the top or bottom of the springs? Any hints on use/install? Car does have some rake down from the rear with my 275x60x15's: (7/16-inch). |
#2
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I think offset camber bars were originally developed for sagging frames. Many can be reversed, and there's ones intended to increase negative camber. Basically this is going to tilt the top of the wheel in towards the centerline. Did you have the camber done? Are you looking for negative camber?
Why is one wheel rubbing and not the other? Is the fender bent? Is the thrust angle of the car bad? Maybe go and get a four wheel alignment and see what's going on if the front end sheet metal isn't bent?
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Jon B |
#3
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I do not know where the camber 'is' at present. Alignment was performed (15?) years ago and vehicle "tracks and brakes straight", tires wear evenly. I would rather not dive into the more current concepts/'fixes' that seem to be in vogue to make these older A-bodies handle more like modern vehicles. (ex: taller ball joints, etc.) My car does sit higher on the RF by 3/8" and RR by 1/2". I believe this to be within the factory tolerance of 3/4 inch. LF wheelwell (wheelhouse?) was not completely fastened by prior body shop and this will be addressed @ renew, THIS may be a solution.
Last edited by unclescratch; 12-28-2017 at 07:56 AM. Reason: tire wear |
#4
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coil spring spacers
Are these rubber donuts from Summit a good way to increase the height of my front end? (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/g...tiac/model/gto) Should they be installed on the top or bottom of the springs? Any hints on use/install?
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#5
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Those 'spring spacers' go in the lower control arm, and it's best to make them seat as far in the control arm pocket as possible. Just make sure those are the ones that are for OE control arms, some are specifically for the GW tubular arms.
I've seen folks use weight jacks in the front and mod the frame for them so they can be adjusted while assembled. All Star has them, as well as others. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all56118 for some types, you have to run your shocks upside down though, which might be an issue with drag shocks. So choose carefully. Springs are so inexpensive, you can just buy new ones, and trim until you get the height you want. Go about 1/8 of a coil at a time. Shoot for about a 1/2 higher than you want, so once it settles, you're where you want to be. .
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. 1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624 1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be |
#6
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new springs
trim them until you get what you want.............I wish I was more 'up' for all that assembly, move the car some, measure, dis assemble, cut, re assemble, move the car some, measure, dis assemble, cut.............sounds like Pink Floyd doing "money" doesn't it ?
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#7
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It sounds worse than it is, after the first time it gets easier. If it's an aftermarket spring and a slightly higher rate, you don't even need a spring compressor, you can just put the jack under the control arm and lower it down.
It's less work than installing weight jacks. Thing with weight jacks, the overall spring height is shorter, so it can make the ride a little choppy. When you shorten the spring, the overall 'lever' of the spring is shorter, so the rate isn't as linear. (if you can imagine that) If you put the spacer in and it's too much, you will be taking it apart again anyway. Oh, and Ames sells ones that are compatible with OE control arms, forgot to mention that. I've seen the poly ones over time chunk, and the rubber ones split. At one point I tried them all, but that was like in the 90s. I finally gave into the fact that there's no free lunch, and you just have to 'do it'. .
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. 1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624 1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be |
#8
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Thank You for the encouraging words. All my control arms are OEM.
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