[Nacs Fab]

Time for an update. Since the last post, I backtracked a little because I got ahead of myself on the install of the rockers and inner wheelhouses. I have now drilled the inner outer rockers for plug welds. I also fit the inner wheel house mini tubs to the trunk pan and frame rails. It turned out sharp!



I originally started to use CHL or cheap China outer wheelhouses but they absolutely suck so I ordered AMD and they fit quite well.


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[Nacs Fab]

Moved on to install both doors after adding leveling feet to my jig. I leveled up both rockers to factory specs and adjusted the doors accordingly. I set the doors in the middle of their adjustment. This will allow for better alignment later.

I have prepped the inner structure and coated with 2 coats of Por15. Once all of this is burned in, the wheelhouses, door striker inner supports and inside of the quarters will all get coated.

I prepped the inner and outer wheelhouses, trunk drops and rear tail panels drop. Installed them temporarily. Everything will be moveable till I get the whole car skinned.


Here we can see how wide the rear tires will be!

Package tray and wood will eventually go away. I have a new package tray to install.



Frame rails lined up real nice and I have them plug welded including any bird poop welding to hold this ole jewel together. Of course all of this will be cleaned up. I’ll build a rotisserie to install the shell on after the car is fully burned in. Then I can install a 25.5 cage and throw it on a rotisserie. I’ll Tig weld the frame rails (stitch) and clean up all of the under structure. I’m
Also going to add my own subframe connectors / full tube x-out underneath, tying the cage to the chassis.




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[Nacs Fab]

Prepped the quarters and set them on the car too. I’m hitting all weld surfaces with steel-it weld thru primer and anywhere that I use the Lenco spot welder, I’ll remove to bare metal.




Here I’ve installed the door striker structure that has been repaired and fitted. Again nothing is welded besides the rails and the floor pan to the trunk pan.




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[Nacs Fab]

Quarters and tail pan are installed, but no where near fitted. This is where I am on the body shell. Making progress, but I need to kick it in gear because my wife wants to sell our house in the spring so I have to get the car into a rolling chassis!






Huge gap at the upper quarter to door area. I’m going to remove a section of the factory drip rails on both sides, then I’ll take all screws out of the quarters and jack up the trunk pan/frame rails at the very back to get this cap to close up. Once it’s closed up and gapped perfectly, I’ll screw it together and let the rear back down and typically the gap stays put.




I’ll get the old remnant of the package tray removed and new one screwed in. I’ll also install trunk hinges and sail panel. Lastly the factory trunk lid goes on and all gaps moved to perfection. If any of the gaps need split and worked in, that will happen after the car is all welded in. So I’ll work very hard to keep splitting gaps at a minimum.

After the above procedure, I’ll reinstall the drip rail in preparation to remove the quarter and fully burn in all trunk drops and striker plate supports.


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[Nacs Fab]

I took some time to order all of the remaining engine parts including a Titan Oil Pump. These things are a work of art. This is not my pump, as it’s in its clean bag of oil as shipped from Titan, these are photos Titan sent me to check clearance on my Stefs 1240 pan.

I had Titan set the pump up for 80psi. They come with their own drive as the gerotor pump is a hex drive.






Against all recommendations, I’m using a ‘70 400 block that was 4 bolt drilled and I’ve added billet center mains with straight arp stud bolts, we also went with billet front cap because I’m running a centrifugal supercharger. I’ve called both block manufacturers and they cannot get me a block so for this iteration, I’ll build the aluminum rodded stock block. When I can get an aftermarket aluminum block, I’ll go fancy steel rods and billet crank. Someday…

I prepped my block by deburring and installing freeze plugs and pouring Moroso block filler to below freeze plugs. I torqued the mains and also installed each head and torqued it before it began to harden. I’ve let it set for a week while I get all engine parts labeled for my machinist. I’m having him assemble the short block.

I did remove the top oil plug at the distributor as well. I found some sludge in there. Machinist will head blast and boil the block. I’ll also have him tap the front oil galleys for me and install the SD mega brace (full) and epoxy it in. I plan on stopping by during the machine process and I’ll chase all oil passages out and so on.

Block needs align bored/honed, decked and bored an additional 0.010”. He has a pontiac torque plate so he will also finish hone it with pistons in hand.



6.800” Superods with 2.375” big end and .927” pin. Kauffman ordered my .927” pin heavier from Ross for this combo.




Ross 18cc dish for 9.5:1 static. Nice short and lightweight piston. 4.155” bore



This is someone else’s photo but I ordered same meziere HD black water pump and innovators west balancer with 4 magnets and their pickup and bracket.



I ordered a Tin Indian Mandrel with 18tooth gilmer pulley and found I need to have the main pulley machined down to fit inside the TorqStorm crank pulley.

Or could I have a billet spacer made to push the mandrel out past the inner lip of the TorqStorm pulley?

I’m going to drive my C&S e85 fuel pump off the gilmer and I’ll drive an alternator off the v-groove in the supercharger pulley. Eventually I’ll buy a vacuum pump and figure out where to drive it from or the alternator may go on the rear differential

Things are coming together! I’ll drop off shortblock to the machinist next week.


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[Baron Von Zeppelin]

A lot of great work , and a lot of nice parts.
Good luck and keep swinging at it piece by piece.

[Dragncar]

You have been busy, nice work.
Now lets get to the real question. How is that black cat with the white paws doing ?

[Nacs Fab]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

You have been busy, nice work.
Now lets get to the real question. How is that black cat with the white paws doing ?

lol still eating mice!


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[ponjohn]

Metal work is super nice.

Is this a boosted combo?

[Nacs Fab]

Yes it is boosted. Single TorqStorm but will eventually either add a second supercharger or larger one. Or I may go twin turbo


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[rohrt]

Holy metal work , how have I missed this build. Nice job.

Did you purchase or make those spring perches?

I see your using the stock sub frame. This thread might be worth a peak.
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...d.php?t=848813

[Nacs Fab]

I purchased the spring pockets but will be modifying them.

Front subframe will also be highly modified, I’m not using a radiator support or inner fenders. I need clearance for the Stefs pan to be removed while engine in the car. The whole front of the car will be chromoly tubing from the factory coil spring bucket, forward. Also going coilovers with limiting straps. Rear suspension has sliders and assassin bars, so it will do all the work!

Bottom of the car will have chromoly tubing tying cage to the subframe.

I’ll make sure I update the post soon.


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[Nacs Fab]

I’ve been working on the shell again, I now have the quarters and tail pan lined up with 3/16” gaps at the doors. The only way for me to get the quarters to line up nice was to remove the roof skin and drip rails. I found some rust under the skin that I’ll address soon. Since everything lined up, I’ve begun welding in the Kick Panel Braces, Outer and Inner Rockers as well as the floor pan to the rockers and to the firewall.

Not a ton of pictures.







Here you see the kick panel braces welded to the firewall, inner structure and the outer rocker. I cleaned up the welds and hit it with steel-it to coat it with weldable material and rust proof it.



All of the plug welds will be cleaned up on the car. This is not a concourse restoration but I want it nicely done. I may even pinch weld and single side spot the panels that will be exposed.




I bought a Rotisserie so as soon as the car is welded together and cage is installed, I’ll pull it from the Jig. Once on the rotisserie, I’ll clean everything up, seam seal and remove all exposed EDP and plan to spray on some epoxy.

I also cut apart the front stub. Gone waaay too far to turn around now…






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[HWYSTR455]

Wow! Nice work!



,

[Baron Von Zeppelin]

Reminds me of how they reconstruct Mopars on Grave Yard Cars show.

Great no-holds-barred work you are performing.
Gonna be a helluva car