[Shiny]

Hoping someone can provide a picture of the uncut sheet metal in the radio area. If dimensions are critical, might need help there also.

Mine was hacked, have the dash out to install a cap, want to try and correct.

[AJD1964]

Here's the one I'm working on now. Can you see very well at this angle?

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...1&d=1465231502

[Shiny]

Thanks AJD1964, that helps.

I found another thread where someone recommended buying a used section cut from another core but not sure I need to go that far yet, nor where I'd find one.

I found some more photos online here (Dash Pad Pros?) that have a lot of detail.

I got my dash loose yesterday, but not out of the car yet... I still have to figure out how to disconnect the wiring harness . When I get it out, I'll see how much of the original sheet metal is actually left and hopefully use these pictures and the bezel to fabricate a patch I can use to support the front of a radio. I have the back radio support bracket still.

I'm sure I'll be asking for more help soon.

[steve v]

I may have a core to cut a radio section from. Let me know how big of a piece is needed.

[tripower]

You don't nessessarely need to tack/weld in an virgin uncut section from another dash. You can make two brackets that will do the same job. This is for using an original radio. You just need the measurements off of an uncut unit (let me know). You need the offset back, opening width and distance between center of knobs. I made these and tacked them in and the radio fits perfect and it is solid. I don't expect a concours guy up under there with a flashlight either but this saved a perfect 71 dash pad.

[Shiny]

tripower - exactly, thank you

hopefully mine is not too far gone to do the same

I've got a radio and the bezel that will give me the distance between knobs... if measuring the setback is easy for you or anyone else, yes, please!


steve v - thanks for the offer

if I can't do something like tripower shows, I'll consider

[tripower]

Looks like 17/32" from putting a straight edge across the back/top of the mounting bevels down to the base. Good luck!

[HWYSTR455]

Disconnecting the dash harness isn't bad, you should be disconnecting it from the body, and remove it with the dash though.

Pull the forward lamp and engine connectors off on the engine side, and take the 2 screws holding the fuse box off on the inside. Drop the column from the dash, remove the column connector, and the rear intermediate connector, and you can pull the dash forward enough to see what's left. (vent cables, resistor cable, console connector, door jam switches, etc).

Has anyone gotten a dash from dash pad pros recently? Curious on the quality...

.

[Shiny]

tripower, thank you! You are worthy.

HWSTR455, you too. That's where I stopped. Dash is on the floor with a lot of junk hanging off it. Should be straightforward to disconnect stuff and pull it out (at least I tell my gullible self this).

Speaking of door jam switch, I found mine was broken on driver side. Who knew? Another part on my list...

[Shiny]

Patching my hacked radio cutout finally, and want to confirm the depth as shared by tripower.

Is the 17/32" measured like this? I am going to weld brackets as shown by tripower, and need to be sure I know how deep to form them.





And can someone show me or explain how the radio actually mounts on this sheet metal?

Does a single thin nut clamp the bezel against the sheet metal and in turn, the sheet metal against the radio chassis?

Or do the thin nuts only clamp the radio to the sheet metal and the bezel has clearance around the nuts or sit on top of them?

Or are there washers somewhere?



Here are what the openings in my bezel look like. If the openings are supposed to be the size of the radio shaft and clamped by the nuts, I will obviously need to add some washers:





And the radio I have for now looks like this. There is one nut bottomed against the chassis and I have another thin nut to clamp, but no washers. Is the rear nut used to adjust the amount of shaft protruding from the bezel or should it be against the chassis as shown:

[Shiny]

Still hoping someone can clarify.

Do these slim nuts actually clamp on the bezel to hold the radio in place?

Seems like not much "face" area on the nut to be clamping this soft plastic. And the radio is heavy... but I guess if that's the way it is, then it must work..



As shown in my previous post, my bezel has damage where the nuts would clamp. How have others dealt with this? Any problem just using a washer to spread the load?

[tigergto]

There is a metal bracket that attaches to the radio and up under the dash. That supports the weight of the radio.

[Shiny]

Thanks tigergto

I have the bracket

Still hoping someone can confirm the nuts clamp the bezel in a radio/dash sheet metal/plastic sandwich.

Maybe someone would be willing to pull the knob and plate off their radio and snap a photo?

Or measure the diameter of the holes in an intact dash bezel?

[AJD1964]

Originally Posted by tigergto

There is a metal bracket that attaches to the radio and up under the dash. That supports the weight of the radio.

Exactly, and its on the pass. side of the radio. details are in the Shop Manual.

On the bezel side, metal washers go in the plastic "channels" of the bezel, then nuts over the washers. That way you have metal on both sides of the plastic bezel. Little springs go behind the plastic knobs to keep tension.

[Shiny]

Thanks AJD1964

The manual is what got me asking questions.

Attached scan doesn't show a washer under the nut (arrow 1), which didn't make sense to me, but guess if the bezel is intact, the nut will clamp it.

Since my bezel is broken at the bottom of the "wells", I'll be using a washer anyway, as you describe.

Also, at arrow marked (2), there is a standoff shown where the nut clamps. I have a radio from a Grand Prix (don't know if it works, but it will plug the hole), doesn't have a standoff. This is another thing I'll have to add to give the nut something to clamp against on that side.

[tripower]

There is a rear bracket that is attached to hold the radio up. The two nuts may suffice short term but to make it secure, attach the rear bracket to the lower dash.

[Shiny]

Made some progress.

Was able to mostly reconstruct one side, as it was folded back and not totally cut off. Followed tripower's example, tacked a bracket on the other side.

[Shiny]

Radio is at least in the right neighborhood



Will find washers to go in the wells and clamp with the nuts

[Shiny]

Next question

When the radio is clamped, should it be pulled up against the sheet metal on top and bottom of cutout or should there be a little clearance?

As it sits, mine wants to pull up against the opening, seems wrong, but easy to adjust with some nuts if needed.

[AJD1964]

Originally Posted by Shiny

Next question

When the radio is clamped, should it be pulled up against the sheet metal on top and bottom of cutout or should there be a little clearance?

As it sits, mine wants to pull up against the opening, seems wrong, but easy to adjust with some nuts if needed.

I would think to draw it up snug, and you can adjust the fore and aft with inner nut/washer position on the shafts, to control how tight as you noted. The side bracket will help with most of the weight.

Mine had no radio when I got it - so I went with a Retrosound head unit, that adjusta-fits factory openings. But that's what I did, and it fits nice. Looks like you got a nice radio!