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  #21  
Old 07-10-2014, 10:36 PM
Ziggy Ziggy is offline
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Bob, you mentioned," Steele but is missing the inner lip the meets the pkg tray. Not sure how to deal with that yet." ........Not sure what you mean by that. Send me a picture when you can.

Get better and over the shingles. Bad stuff and very painful.

  #22  
Old 07-11-2014, 06:33 AM
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Question on the run channels for you guys. Did you take the whole mess out and ship them off to have them redone Ziggy? Do yours have the stainless bead on the outside? Is there rubber tape between the channel and the window frame? How are they attached to the door?

Need to do this on my wagon and contemplating doing it myself, but have not found anybody else who has done it on PY.

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  #23  
Old 07-11-2014, 05:24 PM
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Default sweeper rubber

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Originally Posted by ho421 View Post
Gary, Ziggy is right on. Had to go out and look for the shipping container. PUI sources their window weather strips (i.e. the complete kit) from Restoration Specialties. Found that out in a round-about way. The first set was pathetic. Window guides were cracked, falling off or missing. The second set was direct shipped by Restoration Specialties in perfect condition in three business days. They stood behind the product. Went with Ames on the glass run channels and had the shop install them before bringing the car home. OK. I had them deal with the weather strip installs to the stainless too. Didn't want to admit that but heck, those staples looked like a PITA. At 30/hr, I thought it was money well spent.

May be a few weeks before I post progress again. Came down with shingles a couple weeks ago and the pain in my shoulder and chest goes from tingling to burning to a knife stab. I've spent two weeks just fiddling with the hurst linkage converting it from T10 to M22. If anyone has installed an AGE M22 DRS in a 62-64 big car with a center console, I'm all ears. My measurements indicate the shifter will be further back 3/8" and will require Fabcraft's ST10 big car tranny mount expanded from 3.15" to 3.25" diameter to fit the diameter of AGE's tail shaft housing. Fingers X'd.

Thanks for the advice on the grounds. Way more paint this time around.
i am talking about the sweeper rubber that fastens to the three quarter inch stainless steel
piece on the outside of door & quarter window

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  #24  
Old 07-11-2014, 05:54 PM
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Love the progress. It is firing me up to get on and finish my damn bodywork!!

  #25  
Old 07-12-2014, 06:23 AM
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Nice restoration. I'm impressed

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  #26  
Old 07-12-2014, 11:32 AM
Ziggy Ziggy is offline
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I'll try and answer each question individually.

I was concerned about sending any of my parts out and never getting them back. With the window run channels, I obtained a donor car set, cleaned (including removing of old channel fuzzes) then refinished the channels and sent them to Restoration Specialties (I tagged them as well as vibra-etched my name and phone number it spots that would not be seen when they were redone. I did this with both the fronts and rears on the convertible.

The front window outside door fuzzies (more of a rubber rain shield sweep) have hard plastic guides riveted to them on the inside as well as the stainless bead on the outside. They should pop out. You will need to "push" the stainless bead inward with a flat face tool to "break that old 50+ years set-up seal with the door". Then you should be able to pull upward to remove them. Be careful so as not to chip or damage your paint. I removed them after the window was removed but, assume you could you could get them off with the window still installed. I allowed RS to remove the plastic guides from my original swipes. and also included a new set (only place that had the hard plastic guides was Ames and they were not an exact match with hole alinement (I provided them just in case the original plastic ones cracked during the removal process)). RS did not damage any of the originals and just reused them. The outer door side uses clips. These clips were in the process of being re-popped (they appear to be hammer/press-on clips with diamond edge insertions for penetrating the rubber (then bending the protruding tab over to secure) and a slotted finger side that goes inserts into the door). The clips need to be positioned exactly along the length for proper fit and "snap-in" ability to match the door slots.

Not sure what you mean when you asked," is there rubber tape between the channel and window frame?" The only rubber I used was when I reset my glass window into their respective channels. The rubber used were a multitude of thicknesses and widths. I found some on EBay as well as some local glass shops had some. At first, it was hit of miss on the thickness. Some were more of a rubber/ cork material and others were all rubber. I found out that the rubber/cork combo ones, after they were soaked in a soapy solution held the glass better. (This was true with the front door glass as in a convertible, there is no top frame to the glass.) With all of them, I had to trim excess with a razor. Corners were tough and tricky. I took dimensions of each window (with old channels on) and press fit the new frames onto the glass carefully with 2by4's surrounding them (edgewise), and used pipe clamps -VERY Carefully so they were the same dimension. (It is hard to explain in a short word version here).

I should have pics as I took over 15000 when I redid the car. I'll look for the right ones.

John, with rear 1/4 window fuzzies, I cleaned-up the stainless strip and just added new rubber. The rubber on the rear end of the piece seamed deformed and compressed somewhat. On the new one, I carefully trimmed it down. To me, it looks better than having a deformed rubber. They also has little "stand-off" fuzzy strips(where the chrome from the window frame would ride-up against them) -they were about 2 to 3 inches long and maybe 3/8 inches wide and held on with staples. I cut new ones (as the original ones were somewhat smashed). I made them from some rubber backed channel material I found at a local swap meet. My convertible stainless piece for the rear 1/4 was about 1-1/2 inch so, I am not sure how your hardtop is. That's my next challenge with my Bonneville hardtop -when I get to it.

  #27  
Old 08-25-2014, 08:26 PM
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Cmon Bob! Lets get that 421/428 stump puller in there. I cant recall another 63 4 speed 421ho tri stomp anywhere!

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Last edited by jonmachota78; 08-25-2014 at 08:31 PM.
  #28  
Old 08-25-2014, 08:53 PM
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Pow!
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'78 Macho T/A DKM#95, 460cid, SRP pistons, KRE 310 D ports,
3" pypes, Hooker 1 3/4" headers, hydraulic roller,
10" Continental, 3.42 gears
11.5 @117.5mph 3900lbs
([_|_] ##\|/##[_|_])
  #29  
Old 09-07-2014, 09:01 AM
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ho421 ho421 is offline
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Going in today...
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  #30  
Old 09-07-2014, 10:37 AM
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How about some installation action pics? All your parts are looking primo, and will look even better installed. Lee

  #31  
Old 09-07-2014, 07:29 PM
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Help arrived in full full force. Could not get pick to upload but i was visited by richs 2003 svt f150, darrells 71 heavy chevy and jonmachotas 78 stroked bad ass t/a. Couldnt have done this without them. Thx guys
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  #32  
Old 09-08-2014, 05:22 AM
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Nice work!!

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  #33  
Old 09-08-2014, 07:45 PM
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How much beer and BBQ did that help cost??????

  #34  
Old 09-08-2014, 10:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hellerods View Post
How much beer and BBQ did that help cost??????
HAA!!! Had em over for a pool party last month and treated them to bbq off the new smoker. garage fridge was stocked. We had a great time... aside from getting that muncie on. 4th time the bellhousing came off. Turned out the grease journal inside the throwout bearing was catchin on the collar of the input shaft. Took several brewskys to figure that one out.

  #35  
Old 09-11-2014, 12:32 PM
Terry M. Hunt Terry M. Hunt is offline
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Default 63 gp restoration update

Very, very tasty.

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  #36  
Old 09-20-2014, 05:58 PM
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Thought id post a few pics of the m23 install. It was pretty much straight forward. Had to take some metal from top of tunnel due to a vent in the top of the tail housing. Also had to make a little room for the 1-2 shift lever and 3-4 rod but that was doable with a block of wood and pry bar. The early comp plus shifter fits fine and required pre-70 rods and post 70 levers. The m23 is the -6x option which makes it dimensionally about the same as the original t10. Cross member is mounted at original location on frame. Transmission bracket was purchased from fabcraft and is designed for the super t10. Had to change inside diameter from 3.15" to 3.25".
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  #37  
Old 09-21-2014, 04:15 AM
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Default So Nice ...

Bob,

You car looks sooooooooo nice !! Sorry to hear about your Shingles ...very painful I'm told.
All the best,

Bruce

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  #38  
Old 09-22-2014, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucee70 View Post
Bob,

You car looks sooooooooo nice !! Sorry to hear about your Shingles ...very painful I'm told.
All the best,

Bruce
Thx Bruce. They cleared up after about a month. Definitely get the vaccine if youve had the chicken pox and are 50+.

  #39  
Old 09-22-2014, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by ho421 View Post
PUI for the window weatherstrips. Extensions still retaining the original seals after the painter and i dug them out of his three bags of garbage. Cant find them. Rear window seal was difficult to find. Steele but is missing the inner lip the meets the pkg tray. Not sure how to deal with that yet.
is there a website for PUI ?

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  #40  
Old 09-22-2014, 05:33 PM
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Quote:
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is there a website for PUI ?
Gary, try http://www.puiinteriors.com/

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