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#21
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Bob, you mentioned," Steele but is missing the inner lip the meets the pkg tray. Not sure how to deal with that yet." ........Not sure what you mean by that. Send me a picture when you can.
Get better and over the shingles. Bad stuff and very painful. |
#22
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Question on the run channels for you guys. Did you take the whole mess out and ship them off to have them redone Ziggy? Do yours have the stainless bead on the outside? Is there rubber tape between the channel and the window frame? How are they attached to the door?
Need to do this on my wagon and contemplating doing it myself, but have not found anybody else who has done it on PY.
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"If you do everything you'll win" -LBJ 13 Smiles per Gallon: 66 Bonneville wagon 66 Bonneville 2d HT - In perpetual progress |
#23
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sweeper rubber
Quote:
piece on the outside of door & quarter window
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DBANDGB |
#24
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Love the progress. It is firing me up to get on and finish my damn bodywork!!
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#26
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I'll try and answer each question individually.
I was concerned about sending any of my parts out and never getting them back. With the window run channels, I obtained a donor car set, cleaned (including removing of old channel fuzzes) then refinished the channels and sent them to Restoration Specialties (I tagged them as well as vibra-etched my name and phone number it spots that would not be seen when they were redone. I did this with both the fronts and rears on the convertible. The front window outside door fuzzies (more of a rubber rain shield sweep) have hard plastic guides riveted to them on the inside as well as the stainless bead on the outside. They should pop out. You will need to "push" the stainless bead inward with a flat face tool to "break that old 50+ years set-up seal with the door". Then you should be able to pull upward to remove them. Be careful so as not to chip or damage your paint. I removed them after the window was removed but, assume you could you could get them off with the window still installed. I allowed RS to remove the plastic guides from my original swipes. and also included a new set (only place that had the hard plastic guides was Ames and they were not an exact match with hole alinement (I provided them just in case the original plastic ones cracked during the removal process)). RS did not damage any of the originals and just reused them. The outer door side uses clips. These clips were in the process of being re-popped (they appear to be hammer/press-on clips with diamond edge insertions for penetrating the rubber (then bending the protruding tab over to secure) and a slotted finger side that goes inserts into the door). The clips need to be positioned exactly along the length for proper fit and "snap-in" ability to match the door slots. Not sure what you mean when you asked," is there rubber tape between the channel and window frame?" The only rubber I used was when I reset my glass window into their respective channels. The rubber used were a multitude of thicknesses and widths. I found some on EBay as well as some local glass shops had some. At first, it was hit of miss on the thickness. Some were more of a rubber/ cork material and others were all rubber. I found out that the rubber/cork combo ones, after they were soaked in a soapy solution held the glass better. (This was true with the front door glass as in a convertible, there is no top frame to the glass.) With all of them, I had to trim excess with a razor. Corners were tough and tricky. I took dimensions of each window (with old channels on) and press fit the new frames onto the glass carefully with 2by4's surrounding them (edgewise), and used pipe clamps -VERY Carefully so they were the same dimension. (It is hard to explain in a short word version here). I should have pics as I took over 15000 when I redid the car. I'll look for the right ones. John, with rear 1/4 window fuzzies, I cleaned-up the stainless strip and just added new rubber. The rubber on the rear end of the piece seamed deformed and compressed somewhat. On the new one, I carefully trimmed it down. To me, it looks better than having a deformed rubber. They also has little "stand-off" fuzzy strips(where the chrome from the window frame would ride-up against them) -they were about 2 to 3 inches long and maybe 3/8 inches wide and held on with staples. I cut new ones (as the original ones were somewhat smashed). I made them from some rubber backed channel material I found at a local swap meet. My convertible stainless piece for the rear 1/4 was about 1-1/2 inch so, I am not sure how your hardtop is. That's my next challenge with my Bonneville hardtop -when I get to it. |
#27
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Cmon Bob! Lets get that 421/428 stump puller in there. I cant recall another 63 4 speed 421ho tri stomp anywhere!
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'78 Macho T/A DKM#95, 460cid, SRP pistons, KRE 310 D ports, 3" pypes, Hooker 1 3/4" headers, hydraulic roller, 10" Continental, 3.42 gears 11.5 @117.5mph 3900lbs ([_|_] ##\|/##[_|_]) Last edited by jonmachota78; 08-25-2014 at 08:31 PM. |
#28
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Pow!
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'78 Macho T/A DKM#95, 460cid, SRP pistons, KRE 310 D ports, 3" pypes, Hooker 1 3/4" headers, hydraulic roller, 10" Continental, 3.42 gears 11.5 @117.5mph 3900lbs ([_|_] ##\|/##[_|_]) |
#29
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Going in today...
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#30
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How about some installation action pics? All your parts are looking primo, and will look even better installed. Lee
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#31
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Help arrived in full full force. Could not get pick to upload but i was visited by richs 2003 svt f150, darrells 71 heavy chevy and jonmachotas 78 stroked bad ass t/a. Couldnt have done this without them. Thx guys
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#32
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Nice work!!
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It's hard to soar like an eagle, when you're surrounded by turkeys! My wife says she'd llike my car a lot more if it wasn't mine. 64 Grand Prix 389 .030, 1.65 Scorpion Rollers, Tripower, RARE Long Branch, Custom Stainless Exhaust and mufflers, 3.90 posi 200-4R. 068 cam. |
#33
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How much beer and BBQ did that help cost??????
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#34
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HAA!!! Had em over for a pool party last month and treated them to bbq off the new smoker. garage fridge was stocked. We had a great time... aside from getting that muncie on. 4th time the bellhousing came off. Turned out the grease journal inside the throwout bearing was catchin on the collar of the input shaft. Took several brewskys to figure that one out.
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#35
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63 gp restoration update
Very, very tasty.
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Terry Hunt "He'd need 5 years in the fifth grade just to get an idiot certificate" Smokey Yunick re: Bill France Jr. |
#36
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Thought id post a few pics of the m23 install. It was pretty much straight forward. Had to take some metal from top of tunnel due to a vent in the top of the tail housing. Also had to make a little room for the 1-2 shift lever and 3-4 rod but that was doable with a block of wood and pry bar. The early comp plus shifter fits fine and required pre-70 rods and post 70 levers. The m23 is the -6x option which makes it dimensionally about the same as the original t10. Cross member is mounted at original location on frame. Transmission bracket was purchased from fabcraft and is designed for the super t10. Had to change inside diameter from 3.15" to 3.25".
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#37
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So Nice ...
Bob,
You car looks sooooooooo nice !! Sorry to hear about your Shingles ...very painful I'm told. All the best, Bruce
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1963 Bonneville SW 421HO 1967 Bonneville SW 400 1969 GP 428 4spd 1970 GTO 400 4spd 1970 Bonneville SW 455 1971 GP 400 4spd 1971 Grandville Conv 455 1972 Catalina Conv 455 1972 Grandville Conv 455 |
#38
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Thx Bruce. They cleared up after about a month. Definitely get the vaccine if youve had the chicken pox and are 50+.
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#39
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PUI
Quote:
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DBANDGB |
#40
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Gary, try http://www.puiinteriors.com/
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