[avman]

I have quotes all in the same range from Currie Enterprises, Strange, Moser...
Any other suggestions? Any experience with any of those 3 manufacturers?
The Ford 9" based assembly is a firm and final decision, it's just a question of who to buy it from, and who to buy it through.
I am SO excited about what this will do to drastically improve the quarter mile ET on our 65 421 Tri-power GTO. The 421 has been built with some critical go fast goodies, but you can't be quick when only one tire receives power, and the stock open rear axle self destructed I'm actually happy to say.
Thanks for any help with provider and manufacturers suggestions. They all come in around $4,000

[Chief of the 60's]

Build your own.

[Murf]

Check out Quick Performance. You could just get the housing from them, then source the parts locally. They sell complete set-ups too.

Good Luck
Murf

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[Chief of the 60's]

Originally Posted by Chief of the 60's

Build your own.

Originally Posted by Murf

Check out Quick Performance. You could just get the housing from them, then source the parts locally. They sell complete set-ups too.

Good Luck
Murf

Yes, some of the best prices around > http://www.quickperformance.com/

Be sure you go with at least 31 splines and a nodular center section or you will regret the outcome..

[AG]

I would use Strange or Moser and call them directly to order, both are good to deal with. Look at Quick Performance, once you start upgrading to a new housing, Daytona pinion support, chromoly yoke etc, it will be the same price as the others.

[Murf]

Originally Posted by AG

I would use Strange or Moser and call them directly to order, both are good to deal with. Look at Quick Performance, once you start upgrading to a new housing, Daytona pinion support, chromoly yoke etc, it will be the same price as the others.

True, I guess it would depend on what he needs/wants. How fast of car are we talking about.

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[avman]

See below, double post

[avman]

Thanks for all replies!
Build your own won't work for me because I am a one man small business and I would rather buy a complete assembly, ready to bolt in.
I believe it was Moser who was the only one who suggested a high strength aluminum center section construction for light weight plus strength, and one of the other companies mentioned modular iron by name.
The 421 has mildly worked 6777 heads, roller tip steel rockers, forged aluminum .035 over RaceTech pistons with a slight dish calculated for a 10:1 CR. Eagle forged H-beam rods and ARP main 4 bolt cap studs and ARP fasteners everywhere. Comp Cams hydraulic roller cam with a range up to 5,700 rpm, and lifters, springs, and retainers. Billet steel double roller timing set, and a 65 Tri-power setup. Ram Air II cast iron exhaust manifolds.

[Chief of the 60's]

Originally Posted by avman

Thanks for all replies!
Build your own won't work for me because I am a one man small business and I would rather buy a complete assembly, ready to bolt in.
I believe it was Moser who was the only one who suggested a high strength aluminum center section construction for light weight plus strength, and one of the other companies mentioned modular iron by name.
The 421 has mildly worked 6777 heads, roller tip steel rockers, forged aluminum .035 over RaceTech pistons with a slight dish calculated for a 10:1 CR. Eagle forged H-beam rods and ARP main 4 bolt cap studs and ARP fasteners everywhere. Comp Cams hydraulic roller cam with a range up to 5,700 rpm, and lifters, springs, and retainers. Billet steel double roller timing set, and a 65 Tri-power setup. Ram Air II cast iron exhaust manifolds.

31 spline and nodular case are all you'll need. Anything else is overkill and money grab.

[Murf]

Originally Posted by Chief of the 60's

31 spline and nodular case are all you'll need. Anything else is overkill and money grab.

I agree with Chief on this. I had the above in a Firebird street car that ran 11.90-12.0 and lots of street miles. Never any problem.

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[avman]

Thanks again guys.
I don't recall any particular suggestions from anyone at those companies that went beyond that except: I believe that one suggested 35 spline axles as their next step above 2X (high 20s#) and another the aluminum center section, for around $145 more than nodular iron for weight savings, of the unsprung variety, which really counts-if you're counting. If my wife's car was mine to make decisions about, I would cross purpose it as a road course and quarter mile car because I believe it has "naturally engineered" handling potential, certainly WAY beyond my 70 V-Code Roadrunner 440+6, but the GTO will likely see the same action it has seen for the last 4 years. Crusin' the Coast for a week in Mississippi in early October (GREAT event!) car shows, and the occasional rip down the 1320.
I put Toyo Proxes TQ Drag radials on it this November to try to help traction and cut 5/10ths off our last 1/4 mile RIP even with the 3.3 rear gear and only one tire with power for a 14.0 flat, but on the 2nd trip the rear end blew and that was it for now. I fully expect 12s once I get the 3.89 ring and pinion gears and both tires grabbing with a little heat induction via a line lock. My dad's 65 389 Tri-power GTO with a mail order Royal Bobcat kit and cheater slicks won him a first place in his class trophy back in 65 against another 65 GTO and he still has the trophy today. He ran a 12.80. The 421 in her car has been juiced up beyond his 389, the only exception being his had a higher CR, which I know is significant, but I believe that I have more than overcome that with the other mods.
It also has a Pertronix Ignitor 3 billet aluminium distributor and control box, which is an outstanding system, and with the rev limiter built in, I don't have to worry about a mistake between gears causing the need for another rebuild ;-)

[Chief of the 60's]

Originally Posted by avman

Thanks again guys.
I don't recall any particular suggestions from anyone at those companies that went beyond that except: I believe that one suggested 35 spline axles

Overkill for what you need

Originally Posted by avman

and another the aluminum center section

Again, a waste of money for what you need

Originally Posted by avman

I put Toyo Proxes TQ Drag radials on it this November to try to help traction and cut 5/10ths off our last 1/4 mile RIP even with the 3.3 rear gear and only one tire with power for a 14.0 flat, but on the 2nd trip the rear end blew and that was it for now. I fully expect 12s once I get the 3.89 ring and pinion gears and both tires grabbing with a little heat induction via a line lock. My dad's 65 389 Tri-power GTO with a mail order Royal Bobcat kit and cheater slicks won him a first place in his class trophy back in 65 against another 65 GTO and he still has the trophy today. He ran a 12.80. The 421 in her car has been juiced up beyond his 389, the only exception being his had a higher CR, which I know is significant, but I believe that I have more than overcome that with the other mods.
It also has a Pertronix Ignitor 3 billet aluminium distributor and control box, which is an outstanding system, and with the rev limiter built in, I don't have to worry about a mistake between gears causing the need for another rebuild ;-)

I have one car that goes high 10's and another high 9's and don't have what they are trying to sell you. Keep in mind one thing, performance shops can be much worse than some of these internet forums. By the time either get done with you you'll have your kid's inheritance spent on a lot of unnecessary parts because its not their money.

There is a big dollar difference between building bulletproof and overkill.

[avman]

Well I took your advice and even with a few pricey options I'm looking at $1,000 LESS than the other guys!
Please be kind enough to review the selected options and specs, and thank you so VERY much for the help!

[Chief of the 60's]

Originally Posted by avman

Well I took your advice and even with a few pricey options I'm looking at $1,000 LESS than the other guys!
Please be kind enough to review the selected options and specs, and thank you so VERY much for the help!

Not bad. I completely forgot about the drain plug. Good idea, highly recommend it.

[avman]

Thanks for checking my choices. I went to the website and just checked off what made "sense".

[Lee]

Drive a few hours east on I-10, and have Pyle Bros. in Baytown, Tx build it for you. They'll use Moser axles.

[Chief of the 60's]

If you plan on racing and passing tech remember that your wheel studs must protrude out of the lug nuts.

[avman]

I can talk w/Pyle before I buy. PS, TX is West of Louisiana ; -)
I have to use lug nuts/studs that work with the 17" aluminum Rallye 2 wheels from Classic Industries. I will make sure that if I can find "decorative" lug nuts deep enough to match the longer studs, then swap in nuts that are the pass-thru type I will go with the longer ones.
I don't see us "racing" other than test and tune nights, or our car club's annual track day.
Thanks again!

[ZeGermanHam]

Originally Posted by AG

I would use Strange or Moser and call them directly to order, both are good to deal with. Look at Quick Performance, once you start upgrading to a new housing, Daytona pinion support, chromoly yoke etc, it will be the same price as the others.

That hasn't been my experience having done a lot of research on this very topic over the last two weeks. Quick Performance was over $1k cheaper than most others, including Moser and Currie, and that is after they have been similarly optioned. I haven't been able to find a better value than Quick after looking at about a half dozen companies.

[avman]

That's what I found! Checked off some nice options, and Quick Performance still $1,000 less than all the others. AMAZING!