[Skip Fix]

Pyle Bros has worked on several for me -and an hour in good traffic from this side of town.

The Impala project will be getting a 9" already have a pumpkin with a 3.50 Pyle Bro freshened for me, housing will need the extra upper link to make it a 3 link not three. Not all the suppliers of housings have that option.

[ZeGermanHam]

Originally Posted by avman

That's what I found! Checked off some nice options, and Quick Performance still $1,000 less than all the others. AMAZING!

One thing that's worth looking into is whether Quick ships them assembled or if that is on your shoulders. A 9" is pretty easy to assemble, though, so even if it's not, that's not too big of a deal.

[AG]

Originally Posted by ZeGermanHam

That hasn't been my experience having done a lot of research on this very topic over the last two weeks. Quick Performance was over $1k cheaper than most others, including Moser and Currie, and that is after they have been similarly optioned. I haven't been able to find a better value than Quick after looking at about a half dozen companies.

A Quick Performance similarly optioned like a Moser or Strange (who don't use recycled center housing or ends from old 9" rears) with drum brakes, 1/4" tubes, Moser 31 spline axles, entry level N center section with, a 31 spline Truetrac, drain plug, jack pad, leaf perches, and powdercoat (not required) is $2780 without shipping. It's cheaper with their axles, used center housing, used ends etc, but then it's not a direct comparison to Moser or Strange. Only comes down to $ and how strong the rear needs to be based on the application and power level.

[Lee]

Originally Posted by avman

I can talk w/Pyle before I buy. PS, TX is West of Louisiana ; -)
I have to use lug nuts/studs that work with the 17" aluminum Rallye 2 wheels from Classic Industries. I will make sure that if I can find "decorative" lug nuts deep enough to match the longer studs, then swap in nuts that are the pass-thru type I will go with the longer ones.
I don't see us "racing" other than test and tune nights, or our car club's annual track day.
Thanks again!

darned geographic-dyslexia - DOH!!

[Chief of the 60's]

Originally Posted by AG

don't use recycled center housing or ends from old 9" rears.

Care to explain the big difference here and why it matters?

Originally Posted by AG

entry level N center section.

Well now, this is a new one on me. Care to explain this as well?

[AG]

Originally Posted by Chief of the 60's

Care to explain the big difference here and why it matters?



Well now, this is a new one on me. Care to explain this as well?

There is a difference (to me) between using used Ford factory 9" housing/tubes/ends than using a new housing with 1/4" thick tubes. QP offers both. I'm not saying everyone needs a new housing, I'm making the point that a similarly built QP 9" is almost as much as a Strange/Moser 9". QP offers 8 different center sections from stock Ford to Yukon, Strange and Moser. That's the only point I was making, take it for what it's worth.

[pokey1]

I went with the quick performance. I went with the new center section, 1/4" tubes, jack plate/drain, fill option, 35 spline axels, stainless ends on housing, adjustable lower brackets, Yukon center section, disc brakes, helical gear posi and powdercoating. Ordered on black Friday for 10% discount was 2900 delivered. Probably overkill but 500 hp at rear wheel on motor plus 150 shot with a clutch and slicks I prefer to be sure nothing breaks.. I do like to play hard.

[AG]

Nice rear, that's a one and done for some serious power. What do you have for a driveshaft?

[pokey1]

Originally Posted by AG

Nice rear, that's a one and done for some serious power. What do you have for a driveshaft?

Trying the steel one that came with the T56 Magnum package..

[avman]

One option I discussed on the phone with Max from Quick Performance is eliminating the coil springs and shocks with an adjustable strut. (I hope I'm using the right terminology) Basically a shock with a spring surrounding it that allows for ride height adjustments. I had them on my 89 Mitsu/Chrysler Conquest TSi.
The point to doing that is a previous owner installed red color air bags inside the coil springs to slightly raise the rear height (NOT Hi-jacker style) and if I can improve the rear end suspension by going this route, now is the time. Opinions/experiences? Thanks!
Also I posted a screenshot of the QP options that I selected, and new center section was selected. I am not aware of any Moser or Strange dealer that I can get a similar setup from for anywhere close to 3k, unless you call 4k "close". Max's explanation for their price savings was "dealer pricing" for all customers as they do not have a dealer network sales system like the others.

[avman]

Originally Posted by Lee

darned geographic-dyslexia - DOH!!

Lol. No problem. Thanks for the info.

[avman]

3 pix I had handy

[64speed]

I just bought a 9 inch from quick performance with Thru Bolt aluminum center section and all the goodies like helical posi and everything. The center section was 1404 exactly shipped. I used the yukon unit. The rest of my housing I got crazy with and ordered the explorer disc brakes and everything so you cant use mine as a basis but it was about 2500 all together. Way cheaper than anyone else with similar options. Also I got Moser Axles.

[ZeGermanHam]

Originally Posted by AG

There is a difference (to me) between using used Ford factory 9" housing/tubes/ends than using a new housing with 1/4" thick tubes. QP offers both. I'm not saying everyone needs a new housing, I'm making the point that a similarly built QP 9" is almost as much as a Strange/Moser 9". QP offers 8 different center sections from stock Ford to Yukon, Strange and Moser. That's the only point I was making, take it for what it's worth.

Just for the sake of discussion, this is what I'm seeing when comparing rear end packages between QP, Moser, and Currie. It seems pretty apples-to-apples to me. Unless I'm missing anything major, it seems that QP is clearly WAY cheaper than Moser or Currie. I'm not the most informed when it comes to this topic, so I'd certainly welcome your input if there is something I'm missing that makes this comparison invalid.

Quick Performance
- New housing (optional; included in price below)
- Drain & Fill plugs
- Jack pad
- 1/4" axle tubes
- 3.7 gears
- Detroit Locker w/31 spline axles
- Yukon Pro N center section w/billet pinion support
- 11" disc brakes w/parking brake + braided hoses
- Powder coated
Total: $2999.00

Moser
- New housing (standard)
- NO drain/fill plugs or jack pad available (on website, anyway)
- 1/4" axle tubes
- 3.7 gears
- Detroit Locker w/31 spline axles
- Nodular iron center section w/billet pinion support
- 11" disc brakes w/parking brake + hoses
- Powder coated
Total: $4010.00

Currie Enterprises
- New housing (standard)
- Drain & fill plugs
- 1/4" axle tubes
- 3.7 gears
- Detroit Locker w/31 spline axles
- Nodular iron center section with iron pinion support
- 11" disc brakes w/parking brake
- Powder coated
Total: $4,311.20

[avman]

That is basically what I've been saying! Moser, Currie, Strange...ALL "around" $4,000 but Quick Performance, nicely optioned (powder coat alone is $300) only around $3,000!!
See attached (not final, depending on the "strut" option that would eliminate coil springs).

[avman]

By the way, the 4x4 and classic muscle car suspension specialty shop that swapped in the 4.10 ring and pinion gears in the Dana 60 in my 70 Roadrunner, and previously resolved another problem for me, that has explicitly EARNED MY TRUST recommended EATON for the posi section. Y'all have been VERY helpful as well, so i have faith in your recommendations as well. DETROIT LOCKER VS EATON?? Opinions/Experience? Thanks!!

[ZeGermanHam]

It's my understanding that the Eaton Truetrac and Detroit Locker engage differently, and there are pros & cons of each method. The Truetrac is known for engaging/disengaging less abruptly, making it more suitable for a street driven car. Detroit Lockers are more severe and can make some racket when making tight turns (like pulling into a parking spot), but are the more bombproof design (or so I've been told). You will likely find people firmly in both camps.

[avman]

Originally Posted by ZeGermanHam

It's my understanding that the Eaton Truetrac and Detroit Locker engage differently, and there are pros & cons of each method. The Truetrac is known for engaging/disengaging less abruptly, making it more suitable for a street driven car. Detroit Lockers are more severe and can make some racket when making tight turns (like pulling into a parking spot), but are the more bombproof design (or so I've been told). You will likely find people firmly in both camps.

Thanks!!
Any input on the strut option to eliminate coil springs and shocks and air bags? I am inclined to go that route!

[ZeGermanHam]

Originally Posted by avman

Thanks!!
Any input on the strut option to eliminate coil springs and shocks and air bags? I am inclined to go that route!

I currently have the same type of airbag setup in the rear of my GTO as you do. And like you, I'm planning to get rid of it. Companies like UMI Performance, Global West, and QA1 make kits for converting a stock GM A-Body rear end to a coilover setup, and they do not involve any welding. If you order a custom 9" rear end from Quick Performance that is configured for a GM A-Body, you should be able to use any of the A-Body coilover conversion kits on the market. You simply wouldn't need the stock spring perches on the axle tubes. That said, if you order a rear end with the stock spring perches eliminated because you intend to use coilovers, you are then forced to run coilovers from that point forward and can't go back to a stock spring & shock configuration (unless you welded spring perches back on). Because of that, It seems (to me) that it makes the most sense when ordering a 9" rear to simply get the standard GM A-Body configuration that includes the stock spring perches because they won't prevent you from running coilovers, and will leave you with both options should you change your mind down the road.

Now, regarding coilover vs. stock configuration suspension, if all you want to do is get the ride height exactly where YOU want it to be, installing coilovers to achieve that is way overkill. They sell standard springs for stock and lowered ride height, and if you want to raise the rear, you can buy spring spacers for $40 or less. Compare that to the $800-1000 you'd spend to buy a rear coilover setup. Basically all I'm saying is that you can fine-tune your rear end ride height by simply choosing the right spring and maybe using an inexpensive spacer if needed, and it will be far less expensive and complex than doing a coilvoer conversion.

Hopefully others will chime in with their opinions and correct me if anything I said is off-base.

[avman]

Originally Posted by ZeGermanHam

I currently have the same type of airbag setup in the rear of my GTO as you do. And like you, I'm planning to get rid of it. Companies like UMI Performance, Global West, and QA1 make kits for converting a stock GM A-Body rear end to a coilover setup, and they do not involve any welding. If you order a custom 9" rear end from Quick Performance that is configured for a GM A-Body, you should be able to use any of the A-Body coilover conversion kits on the market. You simply wouldn't need the stock spring perches on the axle tubes. That said, if you order a rear end with the stock spring perches eliminated because you intend to use coilovers, you are then forced to run coilovers from that point forward and can't go back to a stock spring & shock configuration (unless you welded spring perches back on). Because of that, It seems (to me) that it makes the most sense when ordering a 9" rear to simply get the standard GM A-Body configuration that includes the stock spring perches because they won't prevent you from running coilovers, and will leave you with both options should you change your mind down the road.

Now, regarding coilover vs. stock configuration suspension, if all you want to do is get the ride height exactly where YOU want it to be, installing coilovers to achieve that is way overkill. They sell standard springs for stock and lowered ride height, and if you want to raise the rear, you can buy spring spacers for $40 or less. Compare that to the $800-1000 you'd spend to buy a rear coilover setup. Basically all I'm saying is that you can fine-tune your rear end ride height by simply choosing the right spring and maybe using an inexpensive spacer if needed, and it will be far less expensive and complex than doing a coilvoer conversion.

Hopefully others will chime in with their opinions and correct me if anything I said is off-base.

Thank you! I will post more information about their proposed "solution" for going to coil overs and the cost. The airbags work fine, but I am looking for input BEFORE I order so I won't regret it in hindsight. That information was VERY helpful and greatly appreciated!