[Nitebird]

I have the numbers matching factory transmission to my 1979 Trans Am SE 400 4speed car and I am wondering what can be done to make the transmission stronger when I have it rebuilt.

I am currently building a Pontiac 455 engine which will have about 500 to 550HP when I am finished with it. (I have the original engine on a stand and in dry storage because I didn't want to damage it).

Will the factory BW T10 trans survive 500 to 550HP or will it be ruined? I will never put slicks on the car or sticky DOT tires.

[b-man]

It will survive if you drive it normally, but using all 500+ horsepower in your heavy T/A even without sticky tires will send it to the graveyard before you know it.

[Tom Vaught]

Put the original BW T-10 Trans on the shelf with the Original Number Matching Engine.

Buy a Super T-10 Trans with a good case and beat on that deal.

Hope your TA is not a T-Top Car as you will twist the body up big time with 550 real HP.

Tom Vaught

[Nitebird]

Originally Posted by Tom Vaught

Put the original BW T-10 Trans on the shelf with the Original Number Matching Engine.

Buy a Super T-10 Trans with a good case and beat on that deal.

Hope your TA is not a T-Top Car as you will twist the body up big time with 550 real HP.

Tom Vaught

It is a T-Top car...since you have brought up the topic I will do a search on that because I don't want to twist the car up....but I didn't want to install weld in subframe connectors as I didn't want to change or ruin the frame of the car....but it sounds like it would anyways because of the HP.....I think I had better take some HP out of my combo.

[72projectbird]

I wouldn't worry about the twist too much, unless you're drag racing it. Just get some bolt in sfc's.

[John Milner]

A 904 cast iron case and iron midplate will help strength quite a bit.

[CROCIE JR]

What TV said. Also its not the HP. Its the TQ. It will be hard to remove the TQ from your 455 combo. Remove HP from your combo, Crazy Talk. Preserve your car, add some sort of SFC

[goatwgn]

Originally Posted by CROCIE JR

What TV said. Also its not the HP. Its the TQ. It will be hard to remove the TQ from your 455 combo. Remove HP from your combo, Crazy Talk. Preserve your car, add some sort of SFC

Subframe connectors are a very worthwhile addition to your car IMO, even if you were to keep the drivetrain stock. The car will ride and drive better, and the chassis will work better in the steering and handling department as well.

[Scarebird]

Originally Posted by goatwgn

Subframe connectors are a very worthwhile addition to your car IMO, even if you were to keep the drivetrain stock. The car will ride and drive better, and the chassis will work better in the steering and handling department as well.

I was talking to Mark at SC&C and he thinks that subframe connecters are not much use with the stock rubber bushings.

I am mulling that over; I would think they would be better than nothing.

[fiedlerh]

A 904 cast iron case and iron midplate will help strength quite a bit.

True, but those parts are getting hard to find and doesn't address the strength of the stock gears. OK, if you limit your drag racing adventures.

You might consider shelving the original trans and either getting a 904 case ST-10 with the nickel alloy gears (hard to find), or getting or building a Muncie "Super Case" Trans ($$$$) http://www.carcraft.com/howto/56399/

[Scarebird]

Originally Posted by fiedlerh

True, but those parts are getting hard to find and doesn't address the strength of the stock gears. OK, if you limit your drag racing adventures.

You might consider shelving the original trans and either getting a 904 case ST-10 with the nickel alloy gears (hard to find), or getting or building a Muncie "Super Case" Trans ($$$$) http://www.carcraft.com/howto/56399/

Autogear can build a 4 speed Muncie with Super case and other nice things to your liking for under $2k:

http://autogear.net/ag_archive/order...eedpricing.htm

[ta man]

Originally Posted by Nitebird

It is a T-Top car...since you have brought up the topic I will do a search on that because I don't want to twist the car up....but I didn't want to install weld in subframe connectors as I didn't want to change or ruin the frame of the car....but it sounds like it would anyways because of the HP.....I think I had better take some HP out of my combo.

Buy some subframe connectors..I used CE bolt ins on my last T top 80 and the current 80...bolt in the back and front and just weld along the subframe at the front....lots of runs on the first car and many to come on the last...once you get really quick the rollbar will take care of the rest....

[Old Goat Racer]

I broke the T10 in my 78 TA with a mild 455 300HP

[ANDYA]

Originally Posted by fiedlerh

True, but those parts are getting hard to find and doesn't address the strength of the stock gears. OK, if you limit your drag racing adventures.

You might consider shelving the original trans and either getting a 904 case ST-10 with the nickel alloy gears (hard to find), or getting or building a Muncie "Super Case" Trans ($$$$) http://www.carcraft.com/howto/56399/

You can try calling S-K Speed on Long Island and talk to Brian. He should be able to help you with a cast iron case ST-10 with the nickel gears. The supercase Muncie is also a good choice. I have one in my 475-500hp street car.

[jonmachota78]

Originally Posted by Scarebird

Autogear can build a 4 speed Muncie with Super case and other nice things to your liking for under $2k:

http://autogear.net/ag_archive/order...eedpricing.htm

Will a muncie bolt in place of a T-10?

[tom s]

Im thinking this is a super T-10?The first gear ratio will help determine the strength of the unit.The 3.42 is the weakest and the 2.43 is the strongest in the alu case version.I have seen some iron case,iron mid plate high nickle 2.88 first gears which were very strong.I have run the alu case 3.42 first ST-10 with a 421 HO in a 63 GP with 3.08s in the back with stock street tires and never hurt it.Ran it thru the 1/4 a few times.Big sticky tires are what will determine how long any will last.Tom

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by jonmachota78

Will a muncie bolt in place of a T-10?

Yes, the post-'71 Muncie is a direct replacement for the ST-10. Can't recall, but you may have to change yokes.

I think the Muncie's shift better personally, but that might just be a preference.

I thought the issue with T-tops is twist? Can't see how body bushings would help, or not much. I know once over a certain level, you will need a 4-point. They do make bolt-in 4-points, and if you're lucky, you can find one of the old Hooker units. They pop up on ebay now and then.

Supercase would be the way to go, or a TKO600.

.

[jonathonar89]

Here's some questions I have for this thread...

Would an aluminum driveshaft and/or aluminum flywheel help with load capacity?
Would poly or even solid engine mounts help with case flex?

I just had my aluminum case '79 T10 rebuilt with all brand new 2.64 gears and added an "iron" midplate.

[Tom Vaught]

Originally Posted by tom s

Im thinking this is a super T-10? I have seen some iron case,iron mid plate high nickle 2.88 first gears which were very strong.Tom

We ran a 66 Chevelle L-88 Dual Holley TR set-up for a couple of years with the 2.88 trans above and a 5.13 gear and decent slick without any trans issues.

That is what I would call a "Super T-10" mentioned in my post above.

Tom V.

[Old Goat Racer]

Originally Posted by jonathonar89

Here's some questions I have for this thread...

Would an aluminum driveshaft and/or aluminum flywheel help with load capacity?
Would poly or even solid engine mounts help with case flex?

I just had my aluminum case '79 T10 rebuilt with all brand new 2.64 gears and added an "iron" midplate.

My TA has a Hays aluminum flywheel. Whatever that's worth?