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  #21  
Old 09-19-2014, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Reid View Post
That's an interesting thought. I may try that on the passenger side...If I can get the foam of without destroying it. Otherwise, I'll do it just like this one. Like I said, not perfect but it's looking pretty good to me right now.
Greg, I should've been more clear above, my found was installed under the seat bun to firm it up.

Joe

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  #22  
Old 09-20-2014, 12:04 AM
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Ok, I was assuming you did it like sprintbird in post #9. I have the passenger side ready to be covered now so I may try putting the foam on the underside.
I do not think I'm going to tear the finished one apart though...unless the pass side comes out WAY better...Then, I might be willing to do that one over again.
In my opinion the biggest flaw in the one I did is the vertical line right inside the collar on the seat back. One of the lines is sunk in way too low in one spot but those are the first hog rings to go in and I'd have to pull almost ALL of them out to redo/remove that one staple.

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  #23  
Old 09-20-2014, 03:57 PM
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An electric carving knife is perfect for trimming foam. And you should always make sure the burlap underlayment is good before putting a cover on. (Or at least that's what I do, makes a difference)

Maybe when I go to do my seats I will do an refresh thread.

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  #24  
Old 09-20-2014, 09:08 PM
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Yeah, I know about the carving knife but I don't have one. The closest thing I have is a big bread knife and that's what I use. Not nearly as easy but it has the same serrated edge. Don't have any burlap either but I know it should be changed.

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  #25  
Old 09-21-2014, 10:27 PM
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All this is EXACTLY why I have always left this part of a restoration to one of my best friends. He is 61 years old now and has been doing this since he was 14. One of the best in the country, and he comes to my shop and what he can't do here is picks up and does at his shop and then brings back. And I usually sway out parts for his labor. Just can't beat that!

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Old 09-22-2014, 07:15 AM
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I actually enjoy doing this kind of stuff...It's just a learning curve. Only done it a couple of times before and with used stuff...which of course, fit like a glove. This just takes a little more time to get right with the brand new.

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  #27  
Old 09-23-2014, 02:03 PM
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What seat covers did you buy?

  #28  
Old 09-23-2014, 03:22 PM
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Legendary.

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  #29  
Old 09-23-2014, 08:33 PM
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Hey Greg, Steaming the seats will help with the fit. My buddy own a upholstery shop
and I've seen him steam seats and convert tops. don't know why but it does make a difference, but not sure how you could steam it you need a good steamer. Maybe a local upholstery shop could do it for you.

  #30  
Old 09-23-2014, 08:50 PM
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Well, I'm sure a local upholstry shop could do the whole thing..but that's what I'm trying to avoid. If I can't get them done to my satisfaction, I may do that at some point, even if it's next summer and I have to remove them. Not that much work involved with that.
Are you saying he steams the outside or from the inside as he's stretching the covers over the seats?

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  #31  
Old 09-23-2014, 09:29 PM
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He steams them after they are together and can do them in or out of the car. So you wouldn't have to take them apart. But if you get them to where you are happy with them then I wouldn't worry about it.

  #32  
Old 09-23-2014, 09:36 PM
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I'm ok with the one I did but I have no objection to better!
The weather has cooled down a lot in the last week. I think hot weather would help. Steaming might be another way to soften the covers up. The foam got all the slack out but they still don't have the completely smooth look I want.

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  #33  
Old 10-11-2014, 07:31 AM
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Hey Greg I've been watching along and waiting for the next installment- door panels and interior paint/dye?

A bit after the fact, but on my Lemans I replaced both the bottom spring assemblies and the foam with new. Good news is that the Legendary seat covers came out really tight with all the support- no wrinkles at all. And since there is no sag the seams don't get pulled on when sitting, so the covers should last forever. Bad news is that the seats have been hard on the butt- just like a brand new econo car. Three years (and 3,000 miles) later and the driver's seat is finally starting to "break in" and become comfortable.

Obviously all this was not done for the T/A seats and there are wrinkles as a result. And a bit concerned about that the seams on the seat bottoms may someday split. But the T/A seats are well broken in and mighty comfortable compared to those in the Lemans.

I think your covers look just fine. And expect that some of the wrinkles may work themselves out as the vinyl stretches over time.

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  #34  
Old 10-11-2014, 01:16 PM
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Actually, I'm pleased with them. The passenger side was a breeze compared to the driver side. Less wear no doubt. Also, I found that a heat gun softened and smoothed out the new vinyl pretty nicely.
Anyway, I'm "building" the door panels this weekend and then on to dying the remaining old parts. The panels take more work than I expected but no biggie. I just didn't expect to have to transfer the upper metal from the old panels to the new. They'll require rivets or something like that and then have to pull and glue the vinyl over the top around the perimeter of the metal.
I may take a pic to clarify that for future reference for those considering using the "unfinished" door panels.

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  #35  
Old 10-11-2014, 11:40 PM
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I ordered fully assembled door panels from Legendary but they were not assembled when I got them. Had to send them back to be assembled (I had already paid for it) and they turned them around quickly.

The fully assembled panels went on quickly and fit well. The only trim parts that I had to install were the long horizontal pieces and the badges since these do not come with the panels.

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  #36  
Old 10-12-2014, 12:57 AM
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I did one of the quarter panels tonight. Not too bad of a job...but that's just attaching the board to the metal upper and gluing the covering.
I still have to attach the stainless strip and cut the holes for the armrests mounting points and the window crank. Legendary has already created holes and cut outs in the board for all but the window crank...no doubt to allow for power windows...and for that, you can see the perforated outline. I'll finish it tomorrow probably.

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  #37  
Old 10-12-2014, 06:01 PM
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Here's a bit of movement...Forgive the mancave dust..


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  #38  
Old 10-13-2014, 11:51 AM
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Greg,

I'm giving up on some decent used stuff and will be ordering the door panels soon. What I'm trying to figure out is how different are the PUI panels to the Legendary? I have read a ton about upholstery differences but not the door panels. Any reason why you went that way? What did you base you decision on? Thanks Joe.
BTW- looks good!

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  #39  
Old 10-13-2014, 08:27 PM
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Well Joe, here is the deciding factor....Color match.
Whatever seat covers you use, I would use the same manufacturer for the panels. Even pieces from the same manufacturer will vary some from lot to lot. I ordered my door panel covers several weeks after the seat covers and I had to give the lot number so they'd be sure to match.

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