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#21
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That was the problem with my car when I️ got it. He had just replaced the dash harness with an unknown brand update kit and spliced all the remaining wires into it. I had spotty electrical service from day one. Lights that didn’t work, no start conditions. One speed on the blower etc. this looks pretty straight forward just time consuming.
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468/TKO600 Ford thru bolt equipped 64 Tempest Custom. Custom Nocturne Blue with black interior. |
#22
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Yeah, I get that, those harness kits are not as easy as folks think. One thing that gets me is that most use zip ties and pull them tight. There's no strain relief that way, more difficult to troubleshoot, and not to mention it looks like crap.
An OE type install is cake, the OE connectors are all there, and when you lay it out, the connectors are close to where they plug in, so it's almost no brainer. .
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. 1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624 1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be |
#23
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Quote:
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#24
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Never mind - just noticed that I already said that. I did finally get around to ordering the fuse box hold down screws from our sponsor, and fastening the box in properly yesterday.
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1965 Pontiac LeMans. M21, 3.73 in a 12 bolt, Kauffman 461. Last edited by Chris65LeMans; 09-29-2018 at 04:40 PM. |
#25
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insight
Quote:
Thanks
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https://www.facebook.com/KauffmanRac...6873234225938/ KRE 461,310 CFM 85cc, KB pistons, Eagle rods, Ohio crank KRE custom HR236,Dougs ceramic,Edelbrock Pro Flo 4. Quick Performance 9". 552HP 594 TQ |
#26
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As an alternative to M&H, one source I should have mentioned is Lectric-Limited:
https://www.lectriclimited.com They are as good if not better than M&H, though I'm not going to argue with anyone about it. Tips on the AAW classic update kit. Whew. *Go through the instructions multiple times, before you even attempt to install anything. *Mark the areas in the instruction that will apply to you install, and beware, it can be confusing. *Not everything comes with the kit. Save all the clips, etc from the dash, noting where they go. Have extra Packard connectors & terminals on hand. *Blaze me if you want, but the best way to terminate any ends is with a professional crimper, and quality terminals, using shrink tube on any exposed power runs. No crappy auto parts terminals with those crappy plastic covers on them. *If you need sources for terminals or tool recommendations, look at some of my other posts. *Not sure about 67 and before, but 68-up, it's best to remove the dash, with the OE harness attached, and toss it on a bench. Compare the new harness to the OE, take pics and notes. *If any of the retainers, channels, clips, etc are damaged or missing, many of them are reproduced. Stuff like that not only makes for a clean install, but also makes it last longer and easy to troubleshoot. *If you run aftermarket gauges, make a sub harness. You can on some models remove the gauge cluster by itself, and it's a lot easier to do if you can just unplug it. Since it's not exposed to weather, using an AMPhenol type plug is acceptable. (You will need an open barrel crimper for those type terminals, but worth having) *The update kit has an accessory harness for add-ons. If you're not using any of them, I suggest terminating all the extra wires using a AMPhenol connector, so later you can tap into the wires easily (and cleanly). *You can use OE type harness wrap if you want, and are familiar with using it. Do NOT use electrical tape, or anything with adhesive. Some choose to use loom, which is a good idea, it protects the wire, and split loom allows for troubleshooting and for adding or removing wires. The mesh split loom is my go-to, but you can use whatever you want. *Take pics along the way. Try to document as best and much as you can for future reference. You will be surprised how useful that can be, even when you think you will never need it. *If you add circuits, or extend wires, use quality wire (GXL or TXL), no parts store 'primary' wire crap. Try to add the same color wire that you're extending, will prevent confusion when troubleshooting. Can't tell you how many times I've helped folks and every thing is red and black. If you use quality wire, you don't have to use 12ga on everything, 14, 16, and 18 works, depending on the load. Lots of sensors are low amp, and can use 18 or 20ga, same with relay switch circuits. *If you get tire and/or impatient, stop. Pickup the project when you're in a better frame of mind. When you get tired an impatient, that's when the majority of human error happens. Calling support at AAW is pretty worthless, once you've paid for it, you're pretty much on your own. It's not too difficult, a lot of point A to point B stuff, don't let it be intimidating. Mark and make notes right on the instruction sheet(s), maybe use sticky notes until you're done, so you don't have a lot of corrections on there. If found on some of the AAW areas the connectors were cheap. For example, I did the whole car kit, and all the exterior bulb connectors were missing seals or not the type that even accepted seals. Not good. I replaced all of the ones that were unacceptable, and it probably added a hundred bucks or more. When I replaced them, I used new terminals, with seals, and the connectors cost more than the cheap ones. My floor hi/lo switch was DOA Chinese crap. Come of the specialty connectors, such as the one for the cigar lighter, were not OE type, not insulated, were cheap, but did work. I changed them. Some of the dash light sockets were junk, needed replacing. Some of the instructions were so generic, I just consider them 'wrong'. Definitely check against OE diagrams, and the original harness. In my case, due to all the modification, add ons, rerouting, etc, I basically paid for the fuse box and a bunch of wire. If you have a lot of mods you want to do, you might consider the basic kit that includes the fuse box and go from there. In my case, after all was said and done, aside from the floor hi/lo switch, I only had one mistake, and that was I made a section too long, and had to look if under the dash. Everything worked, and considering the effort, that was pretty good results. My one front speaker in the aftermarket kick panels works intermittently, I think it might be the speaker leads shorting on the body, but that isn't harness related. I should be able to make this year's Pype/Ames show, if anyone is interested, I will point out the mods, etc. . .
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. 1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624 1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be |
The Following User Says Thank You to HWYSTR455 For This Useful Post: | ||
#27
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Thanks, for such a detailed response!!!!! I purchased the AAW crimping tool and harness tape.I have the dash on my work bench with a brand new M&H for comparison. One question, do I have to use the supplied ignition switch? I have a NOS illuminated switch currently mounted.
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https://www.facebook.com/KauffmanRac...6873234225938/ KRE 461,310 CFM 85cc, KB pistons, Eagle rods, Ohio crank KRE custom HR236,Dougs ceramic,Edelbrock Pro Flo 4. Quick Performance 9". 552HP 594 TQ |
#28
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Very well said HWYSTR455 !
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#29
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Their' tools are good, believe they are the Sargent brand, I have a couple of those. They are for 'open' type connectors. Post pics please! Especially of the M&H one. .
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. 1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624 1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be |
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