[Carcrazy Eckley]

I have a stock 1970 GTO 400 350hp 445t can I run a 50 or 75 shot of NOS in it.

[Tom Vaught]

445t?

Tom V

[Carcrazy Eckley]

445 torque

[Tom Vaught]

OK, it was right in front of me if I paid attention to the whole sentence.

In my brain it was saying no boosted engine has only 445 Lbs/ft of torque.

Tom V.

[Carcrazy Eckley]

So can I run a 50 or 75 shot safely on the stock 400 engine

[rtanner]

i have never run less than a 125 powershot, or 150 cheater on any of my stock 400s, 455s, w/o a moments trouble, the factory nos jetting is overly rich, you would not get into any trouble unless you started trying to jet it yourself, expect a one plus et drop on a stock gto w 125/150 hp hit, good luck and enjoy it!!

[Carcrazy Eckley]

Ok cool thank you

[HWYSTR455]

Factory? Like how factory? Like, cast pistons? I would be cautious, and never let it hiccup, etc, the pistons can only take so much.

Ring gaps are USUALLY good to 150 shots, but no more, and closer to 150 you are the more risk there is of rings butting.

.

[Carcrazy Eckley]

The engine is 100% stock it was rebuilt a long time ago not sure if they put cast pistons or aluminum. Engine runs great if I have cast what can I run comfortably.

[HWYSTR455]

A fixed kit in the 75 - 125 range would be my suggestion. The NX systems are nice, the mainline setup is ok, but the hitman setup provides growth and has better solenoids. (if you can swing the extra bux)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nex-ml1000/overview/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ne...0-10/overview/

Make sure your fuel and ignition system is up to par and you will be good. Some use a small tank and pump for the fuel system for the n2o setup, which is a safe way to go. You can mount a small cell on the core support with a pump for fairly inexpensive investment.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rci-1010d/overview/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/jz...3-nf/overview/




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[Carcrazy Eckley]

Sweet thank you. I'm thinking about running this http://www.nitrousexpress.com/ml1002...lb-bottle.html since I have the original quadrajet with just a 50 shot and a carter 120gph fuel pump with some tunning to my ignition.

[HWYSTR455]

Yeah, that's the one, and it looks like now they've upgraded the one solenoid, which looks like the one from the Hitman kit. That's a good thing.

The big difference between the Mainline and the Hitman is the plate, Mainline is a spray bar, Hitman is a perimeter plate spray. Below 150 there's not much of a benefit to my knowledge, so you're fine with the Mainline.

Couple tips:

* Make sure the plate doesn't have any areas of flow being disturbed and fits well. (gaskets tend to hang out, check)
* Make sure the bars face the right direction. (don't laugh)
* Get (or make) solenoid brackets http://www.nitrousexpress.com/solenoid-brackets.html
* Ditch the hard lines and get braided lines to plumb the solenoids
* Use a WOT switch
* Close plug gaps to .030 and drop to 44s or even 43s (one or two heat range)
* Use new plugs, new distributor cap and rotor, and new wires (make sure you have a high output coil too)
* Use medical grade N2O (you can find it, just have to sign a wavier)
* Don't use a restrictive air filter
* Try to remember to track the number of seconds the setup is active for each bottle fill (so you know when you're close to empty)
* Bug the crap out of tech support with any questions or concerns

The general rule of thumb is to retard timing @ 2 degrees per 50hp shot. Some say more, some say less. Detonation is a killer, so be safe. I will say that in my experience, I never had to retard any for shots up to 250 with iron heads. But it's safer to retard. And you need to make sure your curve is good (when not spraying).

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[Carcrazy Eckley]

Thank you so much I'll make sure I will have all these done when I'm using it thank you again.

[TedRamAirII]

I ran tons through a 67 GTO YS, TH400 3.36 gear.. No problems ever. I had a NOS Systems plate under a QJet 125HP back in 1982 . Feels like another engine kicking in. As soon as the wheels quit spinning in 2nd gear I would hit it and they would start spinning again. So I would not engage it until I was in middle of 2nd and then 3rd gear or losing. I had a Holley blue pump at the rear. You do NOT want to run lean. I had a pressure switch on the fuel pressure regulator if I had less than 4psi it would cut power to the solenoids. I had a Hurst T handle with a button to activate it, but if I did it again I would have a small switch with a coiled cord and only pull it out and attach it to the steering wheel or shifter when racing. We had to be sneaky about who had what because you were racing for money, and needed to sucker in a victim before they knew what you had. This was before most people even knew about it. ; )

[rtanner]

Originally Posted by TedRamAirII

I ran tons through a 67 GTO YS, TH400 3.36 gear.. No problems ever. I had a NOS Systems plate under a QJet 125HP back in 1982 . Feels like another engine kicking in. As soon as the wheels quit spinning in 2nd gear I would hit it and they would start spinning again. So I would not engage it until I was in middle of 2nd and then 3rd gear or losing. I had a Holley blue pump at the rear. You do NOT want to run lean. I had a pressure switch on the fuel pressure regulator if I had less than 4psi it would cut power to the solenoids. I had a Hurst T handle with a button to activate it, but if I did it again I would have a small switch with a coiled cord and only pull it out and attach it to the steering wheel or shifter when racing. We had to be sneaky about who had what because you were racing for money, and needed to sucker in a victim before they knew what you had. This was before most people even knew about it. ; )

THIS!!!! and do yourself a favor use NOS brand kit!!

[HWYSTR455]

I ran a NOS Cheater setup for a while and the spray bar plates are not optimum, at least in my experience, and I ran a lot too. Also, the NOS solenoids would go bad quickly, and needed rebuilding. I kept a spare set of solenoids and would rotate them, got old quick, never knew when they would hang. I upgraded to bigger NOS solenoids and it was better, but still not good.

So after some homework, the best off the shelf kits I found were NX. The perimeter plates spray evenly, and the solenoids last longer. Way longer. The bottle heaters are the best, they use transducers and work of pressure, not on or off.

Skip Fix runs a lot of spray, and so did the dude. Ask them, they can give real world experiences.

Full throttle switches are the only way to activate, you ONLY want to engage when at full throttle, period. I had a micro switch on my kick down bracket on the floor.

I ran window switches for a while too, using MSD Digital 6+ boxes. It's a good idea to run a CD box, you don't want to put the flame out, which over 150 shots can be a problem.

You can also run more static CR with spray, the cooling effect reduces the chance of det.

Once you use speed shop NOS (with sulfur) the system is contaminated, and it makes no sense running medical grade. Reason you want to use medical grade it because the sulfur boogers up the solenoids and bottle valve.

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