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#1
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Installing front coil springs without dying
I'm putting some new front coil springs in my 68 Lemans. I've done this job before a couple times but it has been a while. I need a refresher...
I removed the brake calipers/sway bar/shocks then backed the top ball joint nut off a couple turns (while leaving FULL threads inside the nut) and tapped the knuckle with a hammer. Once the ball joint was broken loose I jacked up below the A arm with 3.5 ton jack then removed the ball joint nut. I then lowered the A arm with the jack. No problems there, couldnt have been easier.. I then tried to stuff the new springs up in their perches and persuade the bottom in with a bar but I dont have enough room to get the drivers side. The A arm appears to be hitting the header (or something else) on this side and its TIGHT and doesnt want to go down too far.. On the passenger side the A arm hangs down a bit further and I'm pretty sure I can get that one in with the bar after some persuasion/cussing. After disassembly and messing with the new springs trying to get them in about 5 minutes I decided to grab a whiskey, hop on here and call it a night!! I seem to remember not using a spring compressor last time I did this but that was easy 10 years ago. I'd like to avoid them all together if possible because I find my arms and hands very useful and honestly I'd like to die a different way! What's the most effective way to approach this? My current plan B is remove the drivers tie rod in the event it is holding the arm up and see if I can get the arm down further then try again.. I'm doubtful that this will work. Plan C is to get a spring compressor with the hooks and compress from the bottom, then pry the top in. I dont like my current plan C.
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************************************* 1968 Lemans. 37,000 original miles. GTO clone. 462ci/KRE 290 heads. UltraDyne 280/288 Solid/850 Qjet by Cliff/Performer RPM/TSP 9.5" in TH400/8.5" 3.42 gears/3950# Race weight/12.58@106 at Bandimere speedway high altitude Last edited by 68lemans462; 03-05-2020 at 11:11 PM. |
#2
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I did both my 71's exactly the way you described, just had to use a pry bar during reassembly to "persuade" the spring back into the lower pocket.
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#3
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OLCSFUEmz7c
Try this video, and there are plenty of videos on You Tube on the subject to watch and learn from. I've owned a spring compressor for close to 40 years and have used it many times during my profession as a mechanic. I'm not sure what your reluctance to use one is. I've done it many times before I bought the compressor, and actually prefer using a compressor because I feel it's safer than the alternative. If you do buy a compressor or rent one, oil the heck out of the threads on the screw, and don't use any type of an impact wrench to compress the spring, use a ratchet. The impact wrench hammers the threads and then rolls the threads, and weakens them quickly. I've seen them strip out after repeatedly using impact wrenches on them. Work smart, and be safe. |
#4
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that video was kinda half azzed, he did not mention clocking the spring in the right position before whacking it in with a hammer? i hope he just overlooked that part otherwise he has no clue where its at in the a-arm pocket.
i have always used a spring compressor ran through the top shock hole with the hooks hooked on the lower mid area of the spring coils, then once you have it seated in the top frame pocket & clocked to close to the right position for the bottom a-arm pocket, you can just pull it up a bit with the compressor & lift up the bottom a-arm by hand or with a jack to put the ball joint back in the spindle & thread the nut on. no banging on the spring with a hammer. if it needs to be spun a bit for the right position on the a-arm just loosen the compressor a little & turn the spring to the right clocked position. & if you fear for your life about the compressor breaking or the spring popping out, just run a chain between a couple coils & the frame. ive done it this way 6-10 times on my 2nd gen firebirds & friends early 70's novas. & have watched friends back in the late 80's do it with a pry bar & hammer & fight with it for a long time. compressor is the best way i have found. |
#5
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I was being a little sarcastic in my message and I'm not scared of spring compressors...... I've used them quite a bit but mostly on McPherson struts. I'll go get a spring compressor today.
I prefer the idea of using the compressor as recommended from the top instead of from the bottom. I think I'll try this first. If the spring is compressed from the bottom A arm then muscled in with a bar I see more risk with the process. Gonna give it hell tonight thanks for the suggestions!
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************************************* 1968 Lemans. 37,000 original miles. GTO clone. 462ci/KRE 290 heads. UltraDyne 280/288 Solid/850 Qjet by Cliff/Performer RPM/TSP 9.5" in TH400/8.5" 3.42 gears/3950# Race weight/12.58@106 at Bandimere speedway high altitude |
#6
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I use a spring compressor and run a piece of rebar down thru the works before I loosen things.
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frittering and wasting the hours in an off hand way.... 1969 GTO, 455ci, 230/236 Pontiac Dude's "Butcher Special" Comp hyd roller cam with Crower HIPPO solid roller lifters, Q-jet, Edelbrock P4B-QJ, Doug's headers, ported 6X-8 (97cc) heads, TKO600, 3.73 geared Eaton Tru-Trac 8.5", hydroboost, rear disc brakes......and my greatest mechanical feat....a new heater core. |
#7
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Last week I pulled my front springs to cut 1/2 a coil off of them. After researching here I decided to compress the spring and drop the lower A-arm from the backside.
I believe it would have been much more difficult w/o the spring compressed. Had to drop the tie rod end from the spindle and disconnect the swaybar link. The biggest hassle was removing/installing the lower A-arm bolts. Some persuasion was required for the driver side rear A-arm bolt to clear the Tri-Y header and you have to fiddle around to get the front bolts out. All in all it was a pain in the ass but it worked out.
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1970 GTO-vert, 461, eheads, stump puller, m20, 3.42 |
#8
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Quote:
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************************************* 1968 Lemans. 37,000 original miles. GTO clone. 462ci/KRE 290 heads. UltraDyne 280/288 Solid/850 Qjet by Cliff/Performer RPM/TSP 9.5" in TH400/8.5" 3.42 gears/3950# Race weight/12.58@106 at Bandimere speedway high altitude |
#9
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The only time I've ever used a spring compressor was on struts. Never used a compressor on any GM A, B , F, or G body. Never did an H or X. Floor jack is all I ever used.
Last edited by Chief of the 60's; 03-06-2020 at 11:58 AM. |
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#10
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Quote:
So yeah, a last resort...
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1966 Pontiac GTO (restoration thread) 1998 BMW 328is (track rat) 2023 Subaru Crosstrek Limited (daily) View my photos: Caught in the Wild |
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#11
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The biggest thing I have found on compressors is finding on with a jaw with the right curve radius to actually hold the spring. Took my three to find one, I think it was the cheap one Summit had actually.
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Skip Fix 1978 Trans Am original owner 10.99 @ 124 pump gas 455 E heads, NO Bird ever! 1981 Black SE Trans Am stockish 6X 400ci, turbo 301 on a stand 1965 GTO 4 barrel 3 speed project 2004 GTO Pulse Red stock motor computer tune 13.43@103.4 1964 Impala SS 409/470ci 600 HP stroker project 1979 Camaro IAII Edelbrock head 500" 695 HP 10.33@132 3595lbs |
#12
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this is the type of compressor to use on coil springs. you insert the threaded rod from the top shock hole, then insert the j-hook end through the lower a-arm shock opening (on some a-arms the shock opening may not be big enough but a dremel or fluted carbide bit will open it up without issue) & hook the staggered j-hooks onto the coils as low as possible to allow you to compress/pull the spring up as far as needed to bring up the bottom a-arm & re-insert the ball joint stud into the spindle.
so much easier & more controlled doing it that way & much easier than lowering the a-arm from the rear & fighting with the bolts. https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...sor/555573_0_0 |
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#13
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Quote:
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Ed 1968 GTO (Thanks Mom) 2006 Silverado 2007 Cadillac SRX 2015 Chevy Express 2024 Cadillac LYRIQ |
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#14
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agreed, lube the washers & the threaded rod. & dont use an impact, just muscle it with a big ratchet or breaker bar. although ive seen even "mechanics" in a shop use an impact gun, but then again ive seen some of those shop guys impact the heck out of lug nuts too!
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#15
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Only compress them the little bit you need Even a cheap spring compressor will work well if only asked to compress a little.
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#16
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Me too. But, not because of the me too movement.
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#17
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Quote:
Considering the job, compressing the spring wasn't too difficult. I like the suggestion of greasing the washers on the tool. I didn't do this but can see it should have been done.
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1970 GTO-vert, 461, eheads, stump puller, m20, 3.42 |
#18
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That Autozone compressor did not fit the spring diameter when I tried it. Kept trying to jump off.
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Skip Fix 1978 Trans Am original owner 10.99 @ 124 pump gas 455 E heads, NO Bird ever! 1981 Black SE Trans Am stockish 6X 400ci, turbo 301 on a stand 1965 GTO 4 barrel 3 speed project 2004 GTO Pulse Red stock motor computer tune 13.43@103.4 1964 Impala SS 409/470ci 600 HP stroker project 1979 Camaro IAII Edelbrock head 500" 695 HP 10.33@132 3595lbs |
#19
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I usually just use a floor jack to install springs, but I recently did a pair of springs that were just too much for the jack to deal with. I ended up getting a cheap compressor off Amazon and used my impact gun to compress the hell out of them.
They went right in, but it sure is unsettling knowing how much tension that compressor is holding.
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"Those poor souls have made the fatal mistake of surrounding us. Now we can fire in any direction" 1970 Trans Am RAIII 4 speed 1971 Trans Am 5.3 LM7 1977 Trans Am W72 Y82 1987 Grand National |
#20
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Quote:
One other thing is if the bolts are seized to the inner sleeve inside of the lower control arm bushing, you're going to have more time invested with either a sawzall or a cutting torch to get the assembly apart. If you run into that scenario the lower bushings are junk, and need replacement anyway. After having done many spring replacements with, and without a spring compressor by splitting the lower ball joint and using a jack, I feel safer using a spring compressor. The method of pulling the spring into the frame by running the screw, or all thread, down the shock hole has been debated here more than a few times, pro and con. I believe using common sense that it works just as well as just compressing the spring before install, probably a tossup as far as safety. Removing a double hooked tool from the spring after the install is complete can be pretty challenging, sometimes necessitating removing the screw and wiggling the hooks out from between the coils of the spring, sometimes using a pry bar to spread the coils to remove the hooks, been there done that. I'm not terrified of replacing springs as some people are on this forum, you just have to have respect for the energy stored in a compressed spring and think about your moves before you execute them. I've probably done at least 100 pairs over my career and have never had anything pop out during the operation, pre-planning will save you problems down the line. Be safe, think ahead. |
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