[grivera]

Does anyone have any experience with this OER Rally Gauge set up where one reuses original lense and needles? If so- is it if decent quality and worthy conversion?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/133192838467

[grivera]

I called Ames and sales rep said I would need the rally gauge sending units (oil/coolant) to make these work. They had no opinion on quality.

[Formulajones]

I'm not familiar with OER gauges, but usually when doing a conversion like that (I've done a couple) they require a different circuit board (where applicable) and a different wire harness as well as the sending units you mentioned.

Usually I've found it's much easier to buy what they call a "conversion kit". Several places sell them, and they come with a wire harness, with instructions to change pin outs if needed, circuit board, gauges and any sending units needed.

The last one I bought through Hitechclassics when I was doing a Chevrolet. Great quality, excellent service, and worked perfectly. Came with everything needed for the swap start to finish.

The conversion can start to get expensive rather quickly though. I've never had a kit where I had to swap in the old needles and stuff. Not sure why they wouldn't just supply you with all new workings.

[grivera]

Thanks - it's odd cause this one says it includes the circuit board and specifically designed to work in place of the idiot light set-up. However, I'm not willing to be the guinea pig on it - was hoping to reach one of the six purchaser from Ames - yep, only six sold.

From listing:
"Rally gauge conversion kit for 1969 Firebird originally equipped with factory warning lights. This cluster is specifically designed to convert factory idiot lights to rally gauges. Kit includes the housing, rally gauges, rally speedometer face, and a brand new printed circuit board. The vehicle's factory speedometer movement, lens, and inner bezel are reused. This is a quality reproduction / conversion part."

[Formulajones]

Hmm, maybe they've done something with the circuit board so you don't have to change the wiring harness??

The ones I've done came with a circuit board, but also came with what I call a piggy back harness conversion that is made to integrate into your existing harness, and you have to swap around a few pin outs. In other words, even though I replaced the circuit boards, they still required a partial wire harness and changing some pin outs, which has me curious about your kit. I haven't done a 1st gen bird though and each car I've done varied a little bit in what's required.

Over all, it's a pretty easy job. Since they are calling it a conversion kit I have to assume it comes with everything needed for a 1st gen bird. I've just never seen one (till now) that you had to actually swap your needles over.

[Skip Fix]

I know when I did my 79 Camaro/IA it was basic idiot light cluster and you move some pins in the harness plug for gauges.

[HWYSTR455]

Sadly, most of the OE gauges I would question the quality, and accuracy, of the readings. Not to mention they are not easy to read.

I would say just go aftermarket, since once you buy that gauge setup, senders, etc, you will probably be in the same territory as an aftermarket setup.

New Vintage has a direct fit setup for the 1st gen birds, might want to consider:

https://newvintageusallc.mybigcommerce.com/69-firebird/

I have a direct fit setup for my 2nd gen, it is flexible, uses quality senders, are quality construction, and have a good selection of options.

If you ever upgrade to some other trans or LEDs, it would integrate easily.


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[Formulajones]

I actually like/prefer the factory gauges, tach and all. 4 cars here with them, 2 daily drivers. I find them to be pretty accurate so long as you run a "good" sending unit. Not the cheap auto chain store stuff. Seems to work okay for me

[grivera]

Aside from appearance, the issue with aftermarket set ups is limited customization. I have a good tach so wouldn’t need the one in dash.

[Formulajones]

Yeah, the only aftermarket gauges I really like are the old vintage coke bottle Stewart Warner, green line especially. Stuff that fits the period. But I'm an old school junky.

[lust4speed]

Only going from what I'm reading on the eBay listing, but how can you run these rally gauges with senders that are nothing but on/off switches? I would think that if they were including oil and water sending units they would list them.

[4zpeed]

Originally Posted by grivera

Aside from appearance, the issue with aftermarket set ups is limited customization. I have a good tach so wouldn’t need the one in dash.

I'm firmly in the original appearance camp, try to find a set of factory gauges, nothing says quality like the original, that and proper sending units will put you in the golden range. The circuit board isn't a issue with a simple swap of the 5-7 wire on the plug-in. The green wire must also be removed from the crank position on the ignition or it will slam the temp needle on startup, but that's all that's necessary for the swap, no cutting. Here's a post by Peter, a few pics and relative links as well.

Originally Posted by Peter Serio

"In 69 and 70 (if you add factory rally gauges to a car that came with warning lights), the green wire is "twinned" at the 12 slot plug-in right behind the gauge cluster. And the green wire at the ignition switch plug-in is just a single wire. (As a branch from a tree.) Exact same deal as '68 though you need to remove that green wire from the ignition switch connector or else your temperature gauge will have a very short life."

"Here is a "map" of how the plug needs to be arranged for a car with factory rally gauges (1968-71 only)."

#1 lime green (high-beam headlamps on indicator).

#2 Dark Blue with a white stripe (Right turn signal green arrow).

#3 empty.

#4 Gray wire (dash lights, for night-time driving).

#5 Dark Brown ( Alternator charge "gen" light).

#6 Dark Green (Coolant temperature gauge).

#7 Tan (fuel gauge sender wire)

#8 Gray wire (dash lights, for night-time driving).

#9 Light Blue (Left turn signal green arrow).

#10 Dark Blue (oil pressure gauge).

#11 Pink (possible 2 wires joined as one (Main 12 volt battery + power input to gauge cluster from Ignition switch-key on only).

#12 Tan wire with a black stripe (when grounded this wire turns on the bright-red "BRAKE" warning lamp in the speedometer circle).

Silver metal gauge housing, = car body ground.

The plug has no ground wire in it so MAKE SURE the metal housing of the gauge cluster is grounded to the body of the car!! This is a source of many problems during an install (a missing ground).

Pete

Originally Posted by Verdoro 68

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...d.php?t=696769

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...d.php?t=696769



Frank

[grivera]

Originally Posted by lust4speed

Only going from what I'm reading on the eBay listing, but how can you run these rally gauges with senders that are nothing but on/off switches? I would think that if they were including oil and water sending units they would list them.

So I called Ames who also sell these conversion gauges and rep said you need to use the different senders (rally gauge style). Since the conversion comes with a new circuit board it appears to be plug and play with no alteration to harness. Unfortunately, the rep said they've only sold 6 and have no feedback on quality.

From listing:
"Rally gauge conversion kit for 1969 Firebird originally equipped with factory warning lights. This cluster is specifically designed to convert factory idiot lights to rally gauges. Kit includes the housing, rally gauges, rally speedometer face, and a brand new printed circuit board. The vehicle's factory speedometer movement, lens, and inner bezel are reused. This is a quality reproduction / conversion part."

[Formulajones]

If it helps Will, I like to use the senders from M&H Electric if they have them for the particular car I'm working on. They seem to be fairly accurate.

Some of the restoration suppliers actually use M&H Electric stuff, they just repackage it, or sometimes they don't and it shows up in an M&H wrapper. But just to be safe and know for sure I'm getting M&H I just order from them direct when I need this kind of stuff.

American Auto Wire is another place to check.

[grivera]

Great tip - thanks!

I plan to check out the conversion kit at Norwalk - Ames said they will have at least one on site.

[grivera]

Anyone here with a factory rally gauge cluster have the part number for the water temperature sender? - or compatible

Also, is it 1/2" NPT?

[grivera]

I found this one from In-line Tube at $35 (INL13700) - with spade connector that I need. Anyone know of a locally available comparable part number?

https://www.inlinetube.com/collectio...rd=%20INL13700

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by grivera

I found this one from In-line Tube at $35 (INL13700) - with spade connector that I need. Anyone know of a locally available comparable part number?

https://www.inlinetube.com/collectio...rd=%20INL13700

All I see for replacement ones for that year have the button head, but the delco gold one that's available has the connector included with it.

I also have the connectors and terminals, if you go that route, and need it, I can give it to you.

.

[grivera]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

All I see for replacement ones for that year have the button head, but the delco gold one that's available has the connector included with it.

I also have the connectors and terminals, if you go that route, and need it, I can give it to you.

.

Thanks Mike - do you have the part number for the Delco Gold?

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by grivera

Thanks Mike - do you have the part number for the Delco Gold?

I looked it up on Rock Auto, part # G1852 :

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...+/+sensor,4748

I've heard the Standard ones are fine too. ( TS6 )



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