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#1
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Another electric fuel pump question.
I'm wanting to upgrade to an electric fuel pump and utilize the existing lines. I'm not building a high horsepower vehicle just a cruiser. I have a 1966 and does have a metal return line/vent line back to the tank. I'm wanting to bypass the mechanical fuel pump. Does somebody make a block plate?
Does anybody have recommendations on a external in-line fuel pump and return regulator? |
#2
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Why are you wanting to change to an electric fuel pump? Are you planning a change to EFI?
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1966 Pontiac GTO (restoration thread) 1998 BMW 328is (track rat) 2023 Subaru Crosstrek Limited (daily) View my photos: Caught in the Wild |
#3
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I see this a lot as this new fuel is gone (evaporates) in 1-2 days after a hot shut-down. It takes several cycles of cranking to get fuel back to the bowl before the engine will fire up on a cold start.
An electric in-line pump fills the carburetor when you turn the key on. Although a nice upgrade for that reason several things need to happen for the install. You need to use a relay to supply voltage to the pump, not direct wiring. I would also run the voltage thru an oil pressure switch with a bypass for starting when there is no oil pressure. If you direct wire the pump stays on after engine shut-down. If you are involved in an accident there can be dangerous consequences from having the pump continue to run......FWIW.......
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If you can read this, thank a teacher. If you can read this in English, thank a Veteran! https://cliffshighperformance.com/ 73 Ventura, SOLD 455, 3740lbs, 11.30's at 120mph, 1977 Pontiac Q-jet, HO intake, HEI, 10" converter, 3.42 gears, DOT's, 7.20's at 96mph and still WAY under the roll bar rule. Best ET to date 7.18 at 97MPH (1/8th mile), |
The Following User Says Thank You to Cliff R For This Useful Post: | ||
#4
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1)
Quote:
1) Gasoline has changed a lot since the 60s thru 90s. Much quicker evaporation. The small "return line" is actually a fuel vapor return line. An electric fuel pump WILL fill the bowl quicker and less stress on the starter. 2) I personally ran a 40 amp relay with the Positive coming from the Battery + terminal. The push button "On" switch was actually hidden where the cigarette lighter resided. Push the lighter forward and power was available to the 40 amp relay. The 40 amp relay wire came from the trunk mounted battery + terminal to the relay, to the fuel pump, and then the ground went back to the - on the battery. The Battery was mounted securely at the spare tire mount in a battery box. 3) I also used a oil pressure sensing switch next to the distributor to kill the pump voltage IF the engine lost oil pressure (engine failure or engine just off). A bit of thinking on how to do the job safely but Cliff has given you the Blueprint for doing the job properly. Tom V.
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"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
#5
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Quote:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...SABEgLrsfD_BwE |
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