Tin Indian Performance Alternator Mount
 

Has anyone had experience using this mounting bracket. I have it installed and it seems like it is pretty flimsy. I don't have alot of confidence in it. It looks nice, it just looks like it needs another bracket to support the back of it.
I've tried to call Tin Indian to see if they left something out. Tried a few times, left message and no return call.

Try sending an e-mail....works better with Kevin.....Eric

:DMaybe you could find the company that actually designed it and see what they say. Of course I'm just assuming he stole the design from someone else.

Ouch!

My solution..Have since went to 16v and no alternator:)
Not sure whose mount it is....

I've had one for a couple years and it works fine.It does flex slightly under load,but it holds the belts on.You might want to helicoil the two bolt holes,they take a lot of load.

I have something similar. Seems flimsy to me as well, but has been working fine so far.

Looks like a normal Alternator mount to me.



George

The Butler Performance Alternator Relocation kit parts are a lot better design.

See Article with photo of parts.

http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...e/viewall.html

Driver's side kit would be PN TRP-ALT1 and costs $85.00

I know the Pontiac guy who makes the Kits for Butler and it is a well designed/ quality part.

Tom Vaught

Here is a link to MMS & Accesories who I believe is the original manufacturer. Scroll down to the bottom. http://www.mmsacc-stainless.com/html/engine_access.htm

I think BOP was also selling the product.

Mark from BOP designed that bracket in 1999 as an alternator kit for the BOP belt drive. I remember it well as I was there. It has been a very good bracket for many years and was just strong enough to eliminate most flex. It was then copied by several vendors a number of years later but the mounting was changed from holes to a slot for additional mounting positions. This weakened the bracket allowing it to flex too much and allow belt throwing and slippage. The design shown on the mms site in Dave's post is an exact copy of the BOP bracket albeit $9 more expensive. In fact, the picture shown on an engine was taken by us (BOP) at Norwalk and we used it for years. It was clearly lifted from our site. Our current bracket PAK46 is made from stainless steel and is supplied with coated grade 8 bolts. Thank you for supporting BOP...

Hey Paul at FAST, you just made my Christmas list next year!.....Cliff

Like I said, The Butler design is better. Doesn't surprise me the individual would copy the poor design.

As Wade said, You can have a great design but after a few copy the part with "their improvements" you go from a properly designed part to a piece of crap.

Sorry, but you do not have a robust part, Lugnutt. I would recommend that you get either the Butler part or the ORIGINAL design part from the BOP people.

Tom Vaught

Bracket
 

Here is a picture of mine, I belive it is the Butler original.

My BOP looks just like the one Dino has. I did have to go to deep pulleys from RARE to stop throwing the belt at launch with 5400 stall. But I think the deep pulleys should be SOP when launching any higher than 3000 rpm.

I'm pretty happy with the e-bay special i picked up....just need a stronger mount for the back of my power steering pump now,,,,,always something....

Been running the BOP one for years. Works great.

Wade(or anyone else) - I'm putting a 16V Powermaster alternator(smaller than stock) on my race car this winter. Looks like the mounting tab circumference is a little smaller. You guys sell a kit for these or am I making my own?

CVFRacing has some nice looking brackets.
http://www.cvfracing.com/pontiac-brackets-s/64.htm

If your talking about the RARE aluminum pulley for the crankshaft, I agree 10,000%. Anybody racing or running some decent HP should NOT be using the stock lower pulley. If you are, it will fail!
I had a stock steel pulley break off back in 05 at VMP about the 1000' mark. Did some nice damage to the hood and fender. looked like someone took a plasma cutter to it. They flex like a :censored:

Let me know what you come up with Brad. I MAY go to a 16v alternator later ??? Seems like most guys with 16v don't bother with one. I have 3 passes and didn't charge 16v battery so far.....and ran coolling system in staging lanes just to test it out....

I always click my motor off at the finish line and restart on the return road. Hot lapping at the end of the year(and letting it run too long in the staging lanes), I wasn't able to get it started on the return road once. I've got a small Denso 50 amp alternator sitting on the shelf and thought I might try putting it on for next season. It only weighs 6 lbs and with the 4.5 stroke motor I'm building, I don't intend to spin it a lot of rpm's. If I don't like it, can always take back off.

What I'm using and I had no issues with it mounted on either side of the block. This kit mounts the alternator rock solid.

Alan

Now a days with all the electronics in a race care it's important to have a well charged battery 12 or 16 volts. I would never race without an alternator. I always have 13.5 volts or better going down the track.


GTO George

X100

Very, very important today with all of the electronics and massive fuel pumps some run.

Tom Vaught

shogun mini
 

I've been running a shogun Mini for years. works great on maintaining battery charge. But Dont have alot of electronic load. Like alot of the new cars today. :cool:

Try mounting your alternator this way with the Tin Indian Performance Alternator Relocate bracket.....


Oh, and the one from Butler, it's "Just ok". I run it on my car - It has limited adjustment. The access to adjust isn't as good as Tin Indian Performance Alternator Relocate bracket.

I have 4 of the TIP on my cars and have no problems. I have 1 Butler type and it works too. I don't see how my Butler type is any more ridged ??

Looks like you fixed a few of the things and made it a lot more rigid along the way. Looks like you found the right lower hole in the head to support that area and then modded the top to get a upper head hole to line up.

Tom Vaught

Just curious....do you run a 16v system George?
So far I have not saw my voltage gauge below 14V after 2/3 runs...14 volts and I charge it..I do start with a fully charged battery on first pass.
Eventurally I will get a 16v alternator...I have a "heavy" 16v battery but I also have a lot of reserve amps..

Question for Mr. Vaught...with AC 220 is much more efficent than 110 and requires less amps to do the same work......is this not true for 16v over 12v syatems..

triathlonx13:...that bracket looks thicker than my old Tin Indian....did Kevin beef them up..?

No mods... you can see it's on a mid performance motor. Stock from TIP. Stock factory heads.

Simple bolt on...

triathlonx13:...that bracket looks thicker than my old Tin Indian....did Kevin beef them up..?

Agreed..it's a bolt on..;):D

You going to make Norwalk.?

Hey Troy - Yes we will be at Norwalk - Looking forward it already.

We've been distributing the TIP alt. relocate bracket for 4 years - nothing has changed during that time with my shipments. Not sure before that.

FYI - Just noticed your stats... 10.05 @ 135.40!!!! <--- That's hau'n !!!

60man,
No I do not have a 16 volt system. I look at consistency.................................electr onics (fuel pumps, water pumps, fans, trans brakes, delay boxes, etc.) act differently with more or less voltage, I have basically the same voltage on every pass (13.5) .............consistency.


George

Any of you guys try having a "field" switch inside the car. Not a bad way to go.
You have the switch on all the time except for your actual run. I turn mine off just before I stage after the burnout and turn it back on after I cross the line.
That way their is no "pull" on the engine during the run.
Its just the actual weight of the armature being spun by the engine at that point.

The battery is kept fully charged by driving in the pits, the burnout and driving back on the return road.
I just run a small 36 amp alternator. But you can run a 100 amp this way and it all works out the same.

Yeah..I got slow the speed down a little....don't want to have get a license just yet..too much $$$$ :rolleyes:
Thanks for compliment..
Not sure how old my TIP bracket is..just a painted Black bracket..Guess the more RPM's you throw at it...the more load. JMO...

I did run a 100A alternator when I was 12v....
I would not try to run a 12v system without a alternator.....some do..
I agree on maintained minimum voltage...nothing less than 14v for me now..so far...so good....

I spoke with Kevin at Tin Indian. He said the bracket needed to be turned around "like a comma". He said it would bring the alternator closer to the crank and shorten the belt making it less likely to come off. It was also mentioned that he installed something on the back of his to help support the alternator. I'm thinking a turnbuckle. I am going to to try that.
Thanks for all the input.

+1
I had problems with the Tin Indian bracket. Even with a deep groove pulley I still couldn't keep a belt on. We spent some time making sure everything was lined up perfectly and still had trouble. Went to the Butler kit and haven't touched it since. Much stronger deal with 0 flex. You don't have to take my word for it but Tom is an engineer isn't he? LOL

Alt mount
 

:) For Sale
Tin Indian Alternator mount!:cool: