Can i run Elederbrock heads with my combo??
 

NOT saying im going this route but, I am running casting 13 heads on my 67 GTO, virgin heads, new valves and matching springs for my Crower 60916 cam, Comp. valve job. Seems like most Pontiac guys want around 1,000.00$ for flow work and redo my heads that flow from 220 factory to about260 cfms. I might be better off selling the 13,s and buying a set of Elderbrocks. I DOON,T want to change cam or gears in my car.Question is Elderbrock makes 2 versions with differant cc,s. witch one should i run on my 400+ .040. 373 gear car.
Is this the near best way to go???????

Edelbrock...

If you are staying with the 400 combo the 72cc is the head for you to remain pump gas friendly. If you are going to stroke it the 87cc head is the one that is still pump gas friendly. They make the round port versions and the D-port version. The round ports will not work with the headers you currently have as they won't bolt up. The D-ports will work fine with the headers you have as far as bolting up to them.

If your iron heads are a true 260 cfm at .500 lift I would stick with them but if you are guessing they are 260 without a flowbench sheet then you might be surprised what they flow... An iron head that flows an honest 260 is a pretty decent head...

He was saying his heads are virgin... it would cost $1000 to get 260cfm. I would go with the edelbrock D ports to keep the same headers if you're on a budget.

In your place I would consider SD performance's KRE 290/295 CNC d-port package.
http://www.sdperformance.com/viewPro...productID=1691

A big chunk of change for some? sure, but well worth it over the long haul.
All the head you will need with lots of room to grow!

yes, Scott, you said it right. After work is done they may flow 260 cfm, i am reading stock Elderbrocks flow that out of the box. So i understand here , the 72 cc,s is what you all recomend?? With shipping ill have over 1,000.00$ in them

You missed 69Goat1's subtle hint. It's spelled Edelbrock. You will want to get that right before contacting any vendors about product. They will probably take your money no matter how you say the word, but your chances of being taken seriously are much better if you know the product.

Geez, always a comedian, no big deal i thought, but??????

What intake are you running? That may have to change as well.

RPM at first, just switched to 68 unit made to look like a performer.

67Cruiser, I have been following some of your post concerning your car's peformance. Before you spend money on heads, you should have your current cam degreed. I see no reason to spend money when you have not verified if the current set up is installed correctly.

Quit trying to throw money at it. If you need help degreeing the cam then reach out to the PY community. Good people here.

I will be updating my combo with ported heads, and plan to degree my current cam. Since I have never degreed cam, I will be reaching out for help when I get to that stage.

Good luck...you have had some good advice so far.

My cam was installed straight up, If heads are coming off changes will be made. Been reading alot about degreeing in a cam and never read ware somebodys has been off. Not knocking the comments but this combo is ready for the 12,s one way or another. Time to make a little investmant and play time!!

My old Crower cam was 5 degrees retarded with the dots lined up. I had to use a combination of a cam offset key and an adjustable crank sprocket to get it right. I've heard of other Crower cams that were off a significant amount when installed with the dots "straight up".

I'd definitely check it, it costs nothing but time. If it's only off +/-2 degrees or so don't sweat it, if more you should correct it.

So U would rather spend 1500 bucks instead of degreeing your cam? No Offense ,but your car has so much potential if you would just listen once! Rich FWIW I had to advance my crank gear 4 degrees to get it to come in at 108 on old faithful cam.

Several people have mentioned that the Crower cams need to be degreed based upon their experience of installing the cams "straight up". You don't seem to be hearing that.

Wish I had the money to throw around like that. New heads will do you no good if cam is not installed correctly...next

Rich...the heads on my Bird(13's) were on a flowbench, just to see what they flowed , after our homeporting job... 233 on intake... not near as much as we thought.. and it ran 11.04/119.95 in Oct 2012. My point is, your heads(stock) dont flow near 220... I personally would spend the money on the Iron heads... but, like everyone says, checking that cam may save you 1500.00. I think a good 1000.00 port job, along with stainless valves and good springs, would still be cheaper than the alum route. Because, even after you buy the 1500.00 heads, i would have them checked, before i put them on. JMO... IRON heads man!!! :)

Agree... I remember a friends 69 GTO with a 400 and mild ported 12's(gasket match bowl blend mostly and really good valve job) was going 12.20's even on bad air days. He switched to E-heads and it slowed considerably especially on hot muggy days. Took a cam and convertor change to finally beat the 12.20's and near a whole season before it finally hit consistant 11.90's.

If you are building an entire new combo especially higher rpm or more cubes aluminum might be the better choice. But dont sell the iron heads short...there is plenty of power that can be found in them.

Also agree you need to check your present cam timing and correct it if its off.

I would pull the heads, have someone cut a performance valve job and bowl port the heads to 88% of valve size, should cost you around $600.00. Bump the cam up 4 degrees and put it all back together.

Do a static compression test before and after.

Calvin Hill
Hill Performance
708-250-7420

You can run up to mid 11's before roll bar and some other safety stuff is needed. You just have to work your combo as others have been saying.

I would push the current combo and tune, tune, tune before going further unless you are looking for a big leap. Which alot more than just heads are needed for that.

I'd be wary of a local head shop porting your head to "260" cfm. Standard street port jobs are closer to 240cfm. If I "had" to have 260+ out of a set of iron heads I'd only trust one of the pontiac shops (Butler, KRE, Spotts in Hatfield, PA, Dude, etc.). As 69Goat said - 260 cfm from an iron port is a significant port job.

My recc - I'd opt for the KRE dports either let them do it or SD. Both have CNC machines and KRE got the 310cfm port job to me in less than a month. If money is a bit tight, then just by KRE dports stock from them - 1850 for 65cc heads and 1900 for 74cc heads. They are probably 2-300 bucks cheaper than the ehead dports. You don't need to change headers. Definately , when you swap heads - check your cams degree. ALL cams should be degree'd.

Totally agree with all you guys, I just want to know in my mind that my heads are ok, I may want to go with the 1.65 rockers to. Like i stated, these heads never looked at by a professional head porting guy. Id be happy with 240 cfm,s. Thanks for all the great answers.

Rich
If u are set on getting those heads Done, get a hold of marty warden in north carolina, he did my first set of iron heads on the grand and we all know how that car ran! You still need to verify your cam timing tho, otherwise u are just shooting in the dark!!

Crower grinds the 60916 cam with the intake centerline at 112 degrees.The camcard suggests the cam be installed at 108 degrees intake centerline. If you are 1 degree off you likely wont see a change on your time slip. TWO degrees of timing change almost always shows up on a time slip. FOUR or more degrees off will absolutely be seen on your time slip. ALSO keep in mind your timing sprockets were not made by Crower and not referenced the same plus chain slack etc. all adds up to tolerance variables. Not to mention possible install errors. You are likely a minimum of 4 degrees off... You could be 7-15 degrees off. Until you degree it you will never know.
A degree wheel, timing pointer(coat hanger is cheap. I made a tin pointer that bolts to block and made it so it goes back exactly where it was if you unbolt it to make a timing change), a dial indicator and a mounting base are not very expensive and you are likely to use them in the future. A Mopar advance key kit doesnt cost much either.

Get it done...If I was closer I'd come over and do it for you...FREE

Does the Drivers head need to come off???? I have dial indicators, work in a machine shop.
I have a spark plug guts removed the guts and tapped for a bolt. I also have a degree wheel. Sure would love to get my heads off for some serious checking. I am finding it difficult to see investing 600 to 700 in a set of cast heads. But for all i am doing ill be happy with the investmant.

You can do it heads on or off. A solid lifter or two is nice but you can make a hydraulic solid easy enough. you can check directly at the lifter or at the valve.

Rich while it isn't necassarily ideal. i did this a few yrs back here is the link, read it when u get time . it did tell me pretty much what i needed to know, and if i remember right when we pulled that cam out we did actually degree it and it was 105 i think? So it was pretty accurate method to try.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...=cam+installed

alot of work to do, Thanks guys for all your help and ideas. can,t wait to get started. Rich