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Project Angry Bird - 1969 Firebird Street Car
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I posted a build thread on my 68 a while back, but have shifted gears so to speak and bought a running and driving car to build rather than remaining in Garage Jail. Let me premise it with this, I had all of the drivetrain for the 68 and was well on my way to building that car, so naturally when I sold the Body and its parts, I kept all of the drivetrain for my new purchase.
We bought a 69 Firebird that had been recently painted and the previous owner dropped in a Hod Rod Company 383 SBC that was supposedly 500hp+. Well, we drove it for a full spring/summer with the pooch of a 383, it wouldn't get out of its own way without a converter and I wasn't spending the money on it till my Poncho Plant would be installed. The car had AC that I got working and i tinkered it as long as I could stand the 383. https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1756315102 Car was super clean with 3.73 posi 10 Bolt and NO RUST We sold our house in the middle of pulling the 383 and starting on the swap, so it took me a few months to get a new 30'x48' garage built at the new house. I finally brought it home. Before It left my old garage, I cut out the tubs to mini tub the car, I cut down a Rhodes Fabricated 9" ford housing and stuffed it with 35 spline strange axles, Yukon locker and 3.25 Gears. Rotor to Rotor it is 57" Wide. https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1756315476 The engine started out as a '70 400 Block which was 4-bolt drilled but came with 2-bolt caps. I bought a billet set of caps off marketplace and sent the block off to a machine shop and had it align bored, thrust surface cut, bored to 4.155" and torque plate honed and had them o-ring it. Block is hardblocked to bottom of freeze plugs https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1756315749 Kauffman did my Rotating assembly after I sent them an old pair of NEW 6.800" Superods and we built the combo around them. I wish I would have just went with steel rods, but oh well. Its an Eagle 4.12" Stroke for 3" mains and standard Pontiac journal. Ross 4.155" Pistons dished for a 9.5:1 static. https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1756316344 My machinist assembled the Engine and milled in clearance for the rods. https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1756316594 I'm getting ready to clearance my Stefs 1240 Pan to fit the Titan Oil Pump. Dropping it off this week to have a friend Tig Weld it. Ill post up more as we progress. Hope to get this car running before winter sets in so Ill be updating as I go. |
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Here is pics I got from Facebook, where another guy with same pan and Titan had to clearance his pan.
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1756317310 Getting ready to cut a $1000 pan to clear a $900 pump! When we weld the new patch on, Ill install a small bung over the pressure adjustment on the Titan to make on the fly adjustments without pulling the pan. I'm waiting for S&W Racecars to ship my rack mount as I'll be installing a manual pinto rack up front. Once this kit comes in, Ill jump in and cut the old crossmember out and install the kit. I at one time had a Chromoly stub for the car, but sold it recently because I don't want to take the car any further apart! Plan is to get the long block together so I can mock up a few things, including a 4" charge pipe with BOV and 52mm wastegate. Im going to try the wastegate thing to build boost even faster as people find its worth 60 ft lbs so why not complicate things. I am installing a TorqStorm 84mm Supercharger and I'll run my C&S 900 Aerosol Carb with mega-bowls converted to e85. https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1756317799 Heads are Kauffman Hi-Ports as cast 80cc and Northwind Intake. https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1756317993 |
Looks like a cool project. I love the limelight green!
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Car looks great and happy to see it getting a Pontiac engine and turbos
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Really cool build and fab work
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Very cool - looking forward to updates
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very cool
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There is no way I'm NOT following this thread. Car and the work looks top notch.
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Torqstorm 84mm, that's what I'm eyeing after I work out more bugs and suspension. I'll check back for your updates.
HR Parts N Stuff Rear Swaybay, highly recommend, Paul is making me one now and for a buddy. It'll keep the rear end level and plant the power evenly, unreal launching after install on my GN, you'll need something like this if you're gonna go 84mm, it's not a normal swaybar. |
I have a Funkhouser Anti Roll Bar kit. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a81bd75c9d.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...221f2662c3.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...e6b51187d.webp https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...913245610.webp Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Damn that's next level up even from the HR bar. There's some people doing thicker factory like swaybars with factory mounting locations or even ditching them but that Funkhouser is legit racecar. You'll be wheels up if you get some thick and wide stickies under there for sure.
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Progress on the oil pan. I had my engine builder weld a plate on the hole I made to clear the pump. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...6203d95f73.png
We added a 1/2” bung so I can make pressure adjustments with pan in the car. Still not sure if I can do this with a trans if the car, but forward thinking was the hope with this addition. I think he did a Fantastic job on the patch. I didn’t take a picture of the pan cut to clear the pump because it looked Exactly like Mysticmissles pan. He gave me the idea to add the bung. I’ve been slacking but I promise I’ll get rolling soon. I just got my lights for the shop today so I’ll install them this weekend and then it’s ON! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Super cool build! Love the color!
Everything Funkhouser's makes is very high quality and he's a super nice guy. I have all of his trick leaf spring stuff in my TA. He did my EFI conversion among many other things :cool2: |
I don't understand the need for adjustable oil pump pressure, please explain. thanks .
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This build is awesome! I'm enjoying following along, and can't wait to see it ripping down the track/street!
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I ordered the Titan pump pre-set at 100psi and their pump is adjustable pressure. If I have to lower or raise it based on bearing clearance, hydraulic roller lifter issues and so on. Just nice to have the capability if it’s needed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Better photo of the pan from top down. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...d0805b3eb2.jpg
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Just realized we put the bung in wrong location. What I thought was the adjustment screw was a set screw the adjuster is a blue locknut. Oh well I’ll just keep that plugged. Geez I need lighting in my shop before I do any more work!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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After spending many hours getting this pan to Fit, i have it installed with a working dipstick.
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1759939692 I rolled the assembly over and made sure i had no clearance issues, then flipped everything over on the stand and started working on top end stuff. https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1759939797 I'm using an .040" set of Flatout Copper Gaskets 9012, I found that the felpro gasket is also .040" thick, so it would work for checking valve clearance. I used play dough and mocked up #1, went through several cycles and checked thickness. It had plenty of clearance since I am .023" down the cylinder due to the rods at TDC. The pic above is before testing. https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1759943517 I pulled the head, cleaned everything and installed all head studs and Flatout Copper Gaskets. Butler recommended that I spray them with a VHT copper sealant, so I did this as well. https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1759943580 Installed the heads and torqued 65, 75, 80 and 100. I then installed all of the valvetrain and set zero lash. Installed the stud girdles. https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1759943632 |
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I need some AN Bungs welded to my Timing Cover, I'm going 12AN on the heater hoses and 20AN on suction side of Pump, since this car will be driven. The Upper hose will be 16AN. Mocked up timing cover and Meziere HD Pump. Installed my 84MM Torqstorm and was able to trim my 4" Charge Pipe for fitment of their big BOV. All of the welding is getting done and Ill catch up on a full installation of the Torqstorm.
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1759941905 https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1759941938 https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1759941967 My next update will be mounting my front plate, fitting my Tin Indian alternator mount, C&S Belt Driven Pump off a Tin Indian Mandrel (gilmer) and mounting the Innovators West damper and mag pickup. I want to make sure this all fits before dropping it into the car. |
Wow very nice!
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Minor update, Charge Pipe done and Front cover AN fittings installed and it is painted. I am replacing my new Rollmaster Chain, because I found a couple links that were not to my liking, I think they were damaged in the install.
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1760364248 It should be here in a day or so, then I get it totally buttoned up. I am planning on welding that spacer to the Carb Hat, its needed to straighten out the path, not only for the inlet of the hat, but just to get a straight transition through the carb. Still unsure if Ill keep that 2" spacer under the carb, its getting really tall and i don't want it sticking through a 6" cowl! I also ordered a 3" 90 aluminum so I can mount a filter on the Supercharger. Currently not enough room to clear the Valvecover. Valvecover is also holding up the rotation of the Torqstorm housing, so that is why the charge pipe has to be so high. https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1760364285 |
I like those valve covers. Where did you get them ? $ ?
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Small Update - These "Custom" Builds take a lot of time dealing with minor fitment issues.
After a trial fit of my Innovators West Balancer, I found I need to trim down some hardware. Since I have to install their Mag Pickup bracket over the top of my Butler engine plate, it pushes it out around 1/16" of an inch more than they initially anticipate the bracket being mounted. Actually it pushed it out the thickness of the front plate, which is 3/16", but IW has aluminum spacers that are 1/8" thick that are meant to install between their bracket and your timing cover. FYI - using this mag trigger bracket and front plate, you will need to grind off some of the back of the bracket where the front plate is press-braked to clear the water inlets. https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1760975425 What they have is a button head bolt that is meant to mount in the hole that has a machined step, to clear the balancer. Mine hits enough that the button head would be trimmed more than I like, so I bought some stainless 3" long 3/8"-18 Countersunk Socket Head bolts. I also ordered an 82° countersink bit for aluminum. Ill remove that bracket and countersink the hole and it should clear. Ill also have to grind the nubs off the timing cover just a bit more to clear it, but ill do that in place and clean it up. The Magnet will sit forward about 1/16" from its normal spot, but I believe the pickup will still read the source, if not Ill have to machine the bracket slightly - anyone have experience with this? TorqStorm even sends a nice Billet engraved Fuel Pump Block off. https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1760975634 I had a buddy burn some billet AN Fittings into the timing cover as well. https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1760975644 I went with 12an for the heater core return - the heater core will get some an adapters and I plan on plumbing up the heater core lines just like factory but in black 12AN PTFE Hose. Suction hose will be 20AN from the Rad and then I'm plumbing 16AN return from Thermostat Housing to the Top Rad inlet. I bought a triple pass aluminum radiator from Summit in the biggest physical size I could get, since Ill use a Chromoly radiator support, Ill have room to mount it. I also have a Derale dual 12" fan shroud with 4000 CFM Fans. Car will also run E85 so hope it cools. One thing I'm going to do and I'm dreading it... I'm going to install all my AN Fittings with caps, along with a pressure gauge and then pressurize the block to make sure there's no internal leakage where my Machinist got into the water jackets, gaining clearance for the Rods. If I hear leakage inside, Ill have to epoxy the water jackets or something before I go any further. |
It might be easiest to trim that 1/16 off the Hall sensor L bracket to bring it in closer. We did the opposite when making my 12-1, we added L base material to push out the sensor.
Did you need talk with Torqstorm about the crank pulley being pushed out and lining up with their SC pulley? |
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Supercharger Pulley also lines up perfectly. Should have my countersink bit tonight so I can verify all of this, I just checked these two items last night by tape measure and straight edge. This is why I went with the Innovators West damper: It allows the use of Crank Trigger and is same dimension as factory damper, so it doesn't push pulleys out any. It is also 4 Bolt like factory pulleys and same as the Supercharger Pulley. Lastly, the Tin Indian mandrel has 4-Bolt pattern too so that is what I'm driving my fuel pump with. Ordered their Gilmer belt pulley and after I make some bracketry for the fuel pump to mount to my front plate, it should work good as well. I'll grab photos of the whole thing mocked up tonight, I will also install Alternator and belt driven pump will need some fabrication to make it work. I bought a Tin Indian Alternator bracket and I'm hopeful that it places the alignment of the V-Belt with the inner V-Belt groove (inboard of their 8 rib supercharger belt) that Torqstorm provides with their pulley. Like with everything, one slight deviation from factory sure messes things up. Now Ill have to modify my Front Plate to clear the 20AN fitting. Should have went 16AN maybe? |
Noticed no breathers, you running a pulley driven vacuum pump or going electric pump on PCV out?
I'm eventually going Star Machine EVP, 12v on the catch can that's connected to my Pcv out. Using VC breathers for only cruise evacuation and pump at 1psi on. |
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I took some photos of the Crank Pulley and the alignment of the TorqueStorm pulleys. I found out I need a small shim for the Mandrel to use their gilmer pulley, otherwise the shims behind it will freely move - looks like something around .100" should work. The Fuel Pump should mount on the right in the photo and ill build the spacers, then drill/tap the front plate for the bolts and fab a tensioner setup. I need to look through my boxes of parts and find the alternator bracket, hopefully it lines up with one of the grooves provided for a V-Belt. The TorqStorm pulley works perfectly with the Innovators West Balancer. https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1761236675 https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1761236914 Take a look at the misalignment of the Mag Pickup, its probably less than .125", will I need to modify it so the center of the sensor is exactly over the magnet? It looks like the magnet centerline would line up with the front face of the Damper. https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1761236973 |
That Alignment is what I meant by Hall sensor L bracket and your engine plate pushing all that out 3/16 etc.
Because the IW bracket to block is flat, it might be easier to trim the 3/16 (whatever size engine plate is) off that vs the L bracket since it looks like the L is grooved like how we did mine. I'm using an electric vacuum pump, which is the oddball in the world of vacuum pumps since most people assume it's pulley driven, which is what I bet Chris @ Torqstorm is thinking. I'm gonna pull a good 10" of vacuum on the crankcase through the PCV hole and that will definitely help a Pontiac from blowing out the rear main seal under boost and making some extra power, 2%, while you're at it. |
Innovators sells a blank sensor mount that I can buy, then drill and tap it. Ill try to fire the engine as is, and see if it works. Is there any way to test this prior?
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Get your gap correct and it might not be an issue if it's not 100% centered.
You can do a trigger log and pull the fuel pump fuse etc then see what the trigger signals looks like I guess. |
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Back on the project! I removed all of the factory front suspension besides the lower control arms - leaving them in place to help hold the crossmembers in line when cutting/fabbing the Rack mounts and so on. Plan is to install my Summit racing Chinese control arms with updated Moog Lower ball joints and QA1 1" longer high clearance Upper Ball Joints. I have Afco double adjustable coilovers for the front and Smith Racecraft pinto rack, including their steering shaft kit and shaft pivot mount. I chose S&W Racecars for their rack mount because it appears to have enough clearance for my Stefs Pan. Plan is to be able to remove the oil pan on Drag N Drives if needed - not that I would ever want to mess with getting that pan installed in the car! Geez these pans do not fit very good.
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1767015636 I got the hood out of the way and ended up removing inner fenders, AC Box, Master Cyl in preparation of new work. Also removed the Rad Support too as I have a chromoly tube support ill install. I foam cover all of my surfaces, it makes it a pain to work on but don't want to destroy the paint leaning over it all winter. https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1767015898 I ordered some heat shrink, flame resistant wire loom, ill address that before final drop in of engine, going to hide all of the wiring too if I can. With low mount alternator, ill go below the header and hit it with wiring and the engine shouldn't be too wiring intensive with MSD wiring to the Distributor and crank trigger but I can keep it clean I think. I leveled the front stub to 0.00 degree accuracy and measured up the centerline of the frame. I marked rear end centerline as well and strung a line so that I could accurately mark crossmembers for cutting. This pic is what their kit instructions show the finished product will look like, however I'm not peeling off the upper layer of the rear crossmember. I'll leave it in place and drill through it for the steering shaft travel. I think it will end up cleaner. My steering shaft has 3 knuckles and a brace that bolts into the factory steering box bolt holes, this gets it out of the way for header clearance hopefully. This part wasn't mocked up on the old stub, so I may be modifying header on the DS too. https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1767015636 Previously, I had planned on fabbing my own front stub suspension mounts and cut up the 68 subframe I had from that project. We sold our old house and moved last spring, plus had to build a garage at the new (Old built 1902) house so this whole plan changed. In fact, i had purchased a chromoly front stub for the car but since offloaded it due to lack of interest in removing the front of the car to further back peddle the project. The previous mock up did help build the header on the passenger side to clear the kickout on the pan and in doing so, I had one tube that goes outboard of the frame. This is why ill remove the inner fenders for now and may eventually buy carbon fiber and cut around the tube as needed. Just wanted it cleaner for now. https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1767016259 Headers are some older Mad Dog 2-1/8" primary with slip-on collectors. They will get high temp paint and header wrap. https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1767016259 I didn't get pics, but I already cut the front crossmember out and will start clean up and tack in the tube that the rack mounts to, then plan on cutting out the rear crossmember as well. I'm going to bolt in the trans crossmember to keep everything where it needs to be, as well as the stub is still mounted to the body and front bumper keeps it all straight as it should be. Plus welding in the front crossmember will happen before cutting out the second one, per the S&W instructions. My hope is to this week keep you updated with progress as I want the Engine down in the car by Sunday! |
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Putting a solid effort in this week and pushing to get the engine in the car.
I bought a kit from S&W Racecars that had all of the brackets and tubing to clearance the crossmember how I wanted it, but I deviated from their plan and left the upper rear crossmember cover intact. I will clearance for the steering shaft through the crossmember as needed. https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1767884505 https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1767884541 Here is the fully welded in crossmember, now ill install the rack and report back. By the next update, I hope to have the rack, suspension and all steering completed and cycled to check bump steer. https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1767884541 |
Nice work Nick.
My Mad Dog headers rear tube wrap around the frame like that. I did not know it when I bought them, fitting each side took most of a day. What are you planning for hood clearance issues ? Not sure I would want to cut a nice hood like yours. |
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I'm actually going to remove that 2" spacer above the carb and I am going with a shorter hat that came with the torqstorm. If it doesn't clear, I have a nice Fiberglass TA hood that I'll install a cowl on and go that route, and Ill save the 400 hood for a wall hanger.
Here's a rendering of the TA Hood mods. I like it because Ill be able to keep underhood temps down too. https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1767967424 Ill epoxy it black for now until I can get it into the body shop for paint. |
Here is a better photo of how the hood will look, love this car.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...90071f16ec.jpg |
Looks great!
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Looking great! Your car really makes me consider putting the born with Limelight Green back on my car.
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I fully had intensions of pulling the SBC when I bought it. My wife never waivered either, she understands that I want it all Pontiac. She and many of my friends thinks I'm crazy for going this deep into a nice driver, but I never let anyone or fear hold me back. |
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Getting things cleaned up! I'll have a couple places of touch up once the engine is in where I weld in the Front and Mid Plate brackets to the frame. This has all been pre-tested on another frame so it should go right in I hope. Later this week, the Engine goes in after a 1 year setback!
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1768314530 |
nice work, should be a beast, I also love the color!
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I finally got the car back on its wheels after working on the Front Suspension, Frame Mods and so on. I know I'm slow, but its been in the single digits here in MO for what feels like Months! New Shop doesn't have insulation so heating the space is like pissing in the wind!
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1770128272 Going to finish a few cleanup items then ill install the Trans with mid plate. This Engine/Trans has already been test fitted into another frame so my brackets should tack on exactly as the mock up was. Ill drop the engine in and tack in the front plate mounts. Once everything is pointed at the rearend correctly, Ill burn it all in. |
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Im making progress, but have no real update other than the engine is settled into the car. I should have the mounts installed and welded up this week so it will be fully installed but just wanted to give an update. Engine is not level or where it will actually be, ill get it straightened up in a night or two this week.
I have a Rhodes 4130 Radiator Support, Ill install so those brackets come off at the fenders. https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1770661274 https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1770661300 I'm so Jazzed about the Stance, but rear will come down a little and front will have to raise up to clear Potholes and junk. https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1770661335 Front Camber also needs addressed: https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1770661041 |
Badass - mini tub?
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I'll be getting back on the rear of the car soon to cover those details. |
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Inching along with progress, since its March, I now have a goal to have it done so that I can have Easter at my place this year and I need time to clean the shop for hanging out and eating.
Engine is mounted with mid plate brackets welded in. Headers are installed, rad support mocked up with plumbing items in place. I am starting to plumb everything and waiting for my new Tig welder to show up to burn in the tabs and 3/8" chromoly tubing to the Rhodes Rad Support. https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1773239434 Almost wish I would have made my own rad support to push the Rad forward a bit - I have no room to turn the engine over by hand, but the car has a mandrel that cannot turn it anyway as I need to upgrade to the new Tin Indian mandrel with splined front coupler with wrench flats milled into it. Look how tight the fans are to Mandrel: (rad doesn't sit symmetrical in the rad support) https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1773239506 The surge tank is mounted asymmetrically as well, but the mounts turned out neat. Need to burn it in, this is just mig tacked at the moment. I have no clue why I took a photo here, you don't see the right hand tube installed... https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1773239582 Here's the tube that mounted the right side of the surge tank, Ill get better pics of the whole process when its back out to burn in. I will also show how I mounted the bottom of the radiator with tube and bent 14 gauge sheet metal. https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1773239806 |
Looks great! Thanks for the update
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Another small update but a major milestone! Radiator is in with all of its mounts tacked in place, Accumulator and Clearview Oil Filter is in and tacked. Now i can concentrate on plumbing mock up. I'll have to remove the rad support and fully Tig weld everything but I can do that just before final install of Plumbing.
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1773318308 Got a photo of the asymmetrical fuel surge bracket i installed. https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1773318381 More view of the other junk installed. https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1773318569 Top plate will get dimple holes and PC shiny black. I need to clean up my "Tool Tray" bumper support and I'm also adding hood pins since I'll no longer have a heavy latch up front. |
Fantastic color.
What brand hood hinges? |
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