Stefs Oil Pan
 

I'm looking to order a Stefs pan for better sealing and the incorporated windage tray. This is going in a 67 GTO, stock cross member and solid mounts.

Would someone chime in and let me know if I need to worry about any interference with the steering linkage, that would be great.

Im thinking the 1095 pan or the possibly the 1730.

Thanks

I have their race kickout- trap door pan in a 69 A body. The only thing I had to do was put a little dent in the middle crossmember where the metal around one of the plugs just kissed the frame. To reach up to tighten a pan bolt you need a long 1/4" drive extension and all socket to get it done.
Nice pan, no leaks.

I'm an F-body guy and they're pans hit the steering everytime we've tried to use them. This hasn't bothered them in the last twenty years and still sell the pan as a bolt in. I know the 66-67 A-body is tight in that area. Plenty of options out there for windage trays and scrapers that will work with pans that have more clearance in the steering area.

Thanks guys... I ran a scraper and tray with a kick out pan, just didn't want to deal with all that any more and the build of the car is higher end, so I am a bit more focused on no leaks while incorporating the windage features.

They changed their A body pan for me at no cost. The billet main cap hit my Canton pan. So I sent them a cutout of my front cap, now all of their A body pans have room there as a result.
I bet they might change the pan for F bodies if you gave them the info they got the info from you ?

I have a Canton A body road race pan but lengthened sump(second gen F body length) on my IA in the Camaro and it didn't hit the cap.

Tried that in the past and they didn't care to fix or correct the issue. We offer a better pan anyways and so does another Pontiac vendor. Canton and Milodon have nice offerings also. Little point to screw around with a company that didn't care, when times were good for them, but now they might being they have more competition.

Stan at Stefs gave me the measurement for the front of 4.5" from pan rail to the bottom of the pan. My steering linkage was rubbing a little with my Milodon pan. I measured it and its 4.75" so im hoping for no issues.

Is it nicer than this pan ? Does it have the kickout, trap doors and windage tray ?
I do not know of a Milodon kickout pan. And when I tried to get Canton to make me a Maxi kickout pan they would not make me one. Did not know it the guy who makes them was coming back to work and if he did they wanted mutilple (10) pan ordered.
Some of the biggest jerks I have ever dealt with for performance stuff in my life.
Steffs went out of their way to help me.

Yes and the part circled in red doesn't interfere with the center link.

FWIW, I used the Canton road race T-pan on my AllPontiac aluminum block and '75 Firebird chassis with no fitment issues.

Our experience with Moroso is that they're willing to make any custom mods you can dream up (for a price, of course). Who else has made a pan for a nitro Pontiac with a -20 scavenge fitting (for remote pump) and with starter provisions deleted?

Eric

What part number is this?

What pan do you offer that is similar? Thanks

1730

I wanted to follow up on this post with my Pan, its a Stefs 1240 full kickout, and a little different than the 1730 shown.

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1770129066

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1770129086

Inside looks almost identical to the 1730 from what I can tell:

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1770129105

BOTH of the pans listed here will need clearancing for a Titan Oil Pump, I borrowed these photos from someone to show the cutting/mods needed to clear the pump. I sent an email to Stefs to let them know and so far they changed their description on their website, but haven't made any pan mods to remedy this issue.

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1770129276

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1770129246

Another Tidbit of Info on these pans, they do take a little massaging to get things to fit correctly. I had to cut the tangs off the BOP 1-piece pan seal I used in the rear of the pan, but that is typical.

One bigger issue was my Billet front Cap needed extensive polishing to remove the sharp corners shown in this photo, I didn't take any after polish photos but it was almost rounded to the stud washer if you know what I mean.

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1770129677

Areas to be modified:

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1770130056

Even after removing the material, I used a ball peen hammer and pounded the inside of the aluminum pan outward.

Oh and I also had to clearance the lip on the bolt in windage tray as it contacted my counterweight in that location. With anything aftermarket, expect fitment issues to be worked out. I also had to modify my screen so that my dipstick would go through, no photos of that either.

My pan (for stock A body) needed zero modifications. Just a tiny dent I had to put in the cars frame where the little circle of aluminum for the plugs to reach the pan bolts on kickout side touched. I sent Steffs a cutout of my front billet cap and the pan came already modified.
I simply put two of the cork seals together with 3M between cap and cork. Bolted it down overnight, dry on top. I ran a teflon double scrapper so no gasket down the sides or front cover. Just Ultra Grey, little on top of cork seal. No leaks.
I did my own custom pump/pickup. Not really a fan of the Titan Pump.

Not sure why I'm not getting notifications... :/

Just ordered the pan today, will report on fit .

Dragncar- where did you get the scraper?

I'm struggling to see the difference between the 1240 and 1730 pans. Can we get depth and width measurements from both?

The 1240 is squared off where it would hit most factory crossmembers, the 1730 is clearanced by having tapered front portion of the pan for fitting most Factory crossmembers.

I would honestly say the 1240 is more of a Chassis Car pan than the 1730, which was probably developed for more Super Stock racing.

1730:

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1768782518

1240:

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1770215429

https://crank-scrapers.com/Pontiac.html

I got the Teflon version. Its a little expensive for a scrapper. Takes a afternoon to fit it. But I/J says a regular scrapper gets you 1% more HP. The Teflon version gets you 2-3%. If true I think its more than worth it.
It can get very close to your crank/ rods. Actually touch them and nothing bad happens.

Thank you! What headers fit those pans? With the kick outs I'm guessing custom headers?

Stan suggested the 1095E for me, said it fit the 67 A body.

I had header and starter issues with mine. Bought one of those MSD starters on sale, would not fit. Summit one did.
My Mad Dog 4 piece headers had a issue with one tube on kickout side. Mad Dog moved it over as much as they could but I had to partially flatten that tube.
I want to say my Hookers would fit. But I added a dip stick bung that will only work with my Mad Dogs. Hits the Hookers but they would work if it was not there.

How did it fit?

I have Mad Dog Headers for a 1st Gen F-Body and I modified tubes for #4 and #8. Their F-Body header has 2 center tubes on one flange and each outer tube on its own flange.

I removed #4 & #8 tubes from their mounting flange and bolted the flanges to the heads, with #2 and #6 tubes still in place. I basically took the Slip on Collector and moved it over towards the outside of the frame on tubes 2&6 (one whole set of tubes) if you know what I mean..., Then I rebuilt tubes #4 and #8 cylinders as shown:

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1770298929

My mockup had an engine "stand" that put me at my desired Crank CL off "ground" and I made it have the kickout in the stand so i knew how far away to be from the oil pan.

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1770298915

I just ordered it so it'll be a while.

How long have you been using the scraper? Any issues?

Engine had been together for about 3 years I think. Zero issues with engine in any way.
The engine just started to run like it was supposed to at the end of last season.
Last pass when I hit 2nd engine hit the rev limiter. Might have rolled my sprag.
Drove it on the trailer fine though. Have not been back in it.

Update on this pan. I had set the block and pan in the car to check the centerlink clearance. It was close, but not touching. What I had thought to do, but didn't, was to check side to side clearance when the centerlink moves with the linkage. Anyhow, motor assembled, in the car now and the center link has dented both sides of the 1095E pan. Called Stef's and spoke with Stan, sent pics too. He said this is the correct pan for my car, and is speaking with the owner about what to do.

Not a fan of straight wall front pans straigh walls to sump vs rounded do to how oil flows under acceleration.
Guess fine with crazy expensive pans could fab nearly just as good with deep sump moroso in garage.
Kick out ok i guess.
Why not just increase oil volume with 12n lines to double oil filters plus and accumulator.

Still learning after no bearing failure only 6-65k rpms since started in 70s.

Mt Stef's 409 pan the bolt holes did not line up-and they even said they had a 409 block to use when they built it! Sent it back and they redid it.

Here are a couple pics. Stan said he's talking to the owner to see what to do as it shouldn't be an issue. Im not sure how my linkage could be any different.

This comment may or may not apply to your situation, but it's a good "buyer beware". I bought a replacement center link from NAPA (offshore manufacturer) and it rubbed on the frame crossmember. I took it back off and compared with the original one and sure enough, there were subtle differences in how it was shaped.

I bought a replacement one from a USA manufacturer (at almost 3x the price) and it fit perfectly.

So there could be differences in your center link vs. the one that Stef's used for a mock-up.

Eric

I did wonder that too, but I replaced it all with Moog parts as I think they are still US made? I guess that's the only other issue it could be but I thought I compared the two.

So we checked 3 centerlinks, my Moog, a new Proforged and a used GM. All were exactly the same. Interesting though FWIW, the Proforged comes already ground down on the top for added clearance.

Still waiting on Stefs response

Following up so that hopefully you Stefs owners will not have the same issue I am having. Since I clearance the pan for the Titan Pump, it makes it a little difficult to install properly at the rear pan gasket that is over the rear main. I made the mistake of RTV gluing the 1-Piece BOP gasket to the Pan itself, then installing that assembly (without RTV) to the block. I was thinking of removal of the pan later so I did not glue it to the block.

I think the proper way to install that 1-Piece gasket is to trim the tangs from the rear main cap portion (meant for steel pan) and glue it to the BLOCK first; let it cure overnight, then RTV the pan to the gasket and torque down. Anyone have any input on this? My rear pan gasket broke during installation at one corner and i fixed it, but I believe the whole rear semi-circle gasket has pushed out of the groove and now compromised. Its pretty evident by when I jacked the front of the car up oil came rolling out of the back of the pan onto the floor!

Now I get to pull this mess apart in the car!

Just noticed the comment about the MSD starter. It id similar to the old McLeod. I bought one on clearance also. You can clock it closer to the block but then on a stock type pan rail the lip has to be trimmed to fit it. McLeod you have the drill and cut a recess for the bolt to reclock it.

My Steffs has no pan gasket except for 2 of the cork strips you get with the Fel Pro set laid side by side on the rear cap. They were glued to the cap with the yellow weatherstrip stuff and let dry over night. Layer of Ultra Grey on top of the cork and no gasket and thicker layer and the block and front timing cover.
And I also put a very thin layer on the pan itself. So I have RTV laying down on RTV vs dry metal to RTV.
No leaks.

Thank you, ill give that a try. I actually have some 3M weatherstrip adhesive and its bad ass stuff! Since ill be doing mine in the car, Ill use a short strip of that plumbers strap like someone posted on Faceboook a while back, to hold his cork gaskets in place while it cures, using the 2 pan bolts in that area to keep the shape of the main cap.

Thanks Man!

I just bolted my pan down overnight, dry between pan and cork.