Exhaust Pipe Cutting Tool?
 

I want to cut off some silly-looking "too large" exhaust tips that were welded on and replace them with something less silly.

Do exhaust pipe cutters like this work? Not sure I can find them as a "loan a tool" so want to know if they actually make the job easy before I buy one.

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1771455449

Mike

That looks like a cast iron pipe cutter. If so, I don't think it will cut steel pipe

Good warning, thanks.

I have zero experience with tools for cutting cast iron pipe or exhaust pipe but see this style listed online. If I can find one in the parts store loan-a-tools I have nothing to lose by trying but don't want to buy one if it won't make the job easy.

Here's an example:

Cutter on Jegs

Sawsall, fine tooth metal blade. Neater than cut off wheel on a grinder.

I never saw one of those, but by the Jegs Pictures , looks like it will work with the pipe OFF the car

I have one of those also. They work (slower) and can be utilized on the car. One rotates / swings them back & forth.

Those work, but are slow AF and distort the pipe a bit. The one I used was from AutoZone rental tools.

Sawzall here.

They do work, although they'll take a little time to cut through. You can use them under a car in tight spots where getting a sawzall or cutoff wheel might not fit.

It'll work. Or use a sawzall if you have one.

Got a cutter like that from Mac tool truck. Can't remember if it's Mac brand or not. It does work amazing. Did not expect it to.

Thanks all!

Sounds like the tool works so I'll check with Autozone.

Sawzall is a good backup plan if Autozone doesn't lend it or it proves to be less than wonderful in my hands.

Mike

I was cutting an exhaust pipe on my LeMans around Christmas and forgot the first rule of using a sawzall....Protect your knuckles! When that saw bit.... I remembered!:D

I usually go with a fine tooth sawzall as well.

Just keep in mind if the parts store rental tool doesn't seem to be working it may be worn out or abused and not working correctly.
Good luck.

I have this one, from Lisle. It is now obsolete, but select replacement parts can still be bought from Lisle while the supply lasts.
https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-...ut-cutoff-tool

https://www.lislecorp.com/media/prod...pg?format=webp

Claims to be strong enough to slice open McPherson strut housings.

https://www.lislecorp.com/media/prod...pg?format=webp

Like anything with a cutting blade, when the blade goes dull, they don't cut well. The one you have pictured should cut wonderfully...if the blades are sharp. But I don't see a way to replace dull blades without replacing the entire chain. Works on the same principle as a single-cutting-wheel tubing cutter for fuel and brake tubing...which is also most-commonly steel.

I’ve had the Snap On version of this cutter in my box since the late 80’s, it certainly works but the cuts aren’t as clean as a sawzall and it works best when it can be spun at least 180 degrees so it’s not good in tight areas.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Power...yABEgL5HvD_BwE

This looks much nicer. Only gripe with the chain cutter is having to hold constant pressure. Its a nice forearm workout

There are ratcheting ones too, but a little more money. Shop it, can find them under $100.

This is the first one I found searching to give an example:

https://www.misterworker.com/en-us/v...ipe/91045.html

The one I have is a little more, came with extra cutting wheels, though I bought some from Grainger that are better.

Take your time and don't crank it down too tight and they work well. They work in tight spaces too.



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The chain type 'work', but the blades go bad pretty quick. They are good for about 3-5 cuts and then you will be cussin'.

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Use a metabo

Issue with using a cutoff wheel is it's tough to get a square cut, making it difficult to slip anything on/in it.

If you use exhaust clamps, you may not 'bite' the tube for a good seal, either.


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I started with the sawzall and didn't think it would go well. Cutoff wheel could work but don't feel safe on my back throwing sparks around the gas tank.

I rented the chain type from AutoZone yesterday. Looks new so I'm hopeful.

Will find out later today with any luck.

If it craps out, there are options on eBay for other styles but for this small job, I like free.

Thanks to all for the ideas and experience.

The offending things are off. They were almost 4" diameter... somebody wanted to make a statement with nothing to back it up?

The chain tool worked but I'm glad I didn't buy one. Way more effort than it should take and the size increments were a pain. When I ran out of travel and re-set to the next link, the arms were open too far to apply pressure. Not the worst, just expect the others would be easier.

These:

No biggy but if I have to do more of this, I'll try one of the Lisle type like Shurkey shared. They are easy to find on eBay.

Now I need to find out if I can relocate the pipes before deciding what to bolt on.

Mike

Tailpipes look like they are pointing at an angle downward, not sure you will be able to adjust them much, if at all.

You can probably get them a little higher, and then use a generic turn-down. You can't put a tip on and make it stay 'angled'.

I do all my exhausts on jack stands laying on my back, Pypes kits for years. I've tried all the cutters, and although the Lisle ones are 'better', but they flex if you tighten them down too hard. And same thing with once the blades start going, you will be 'cussin'.

I've found the ratcheting ones are the best, and worth it if you do a number of exhaust work over time.

I lightly clamp the pipes together with U clamps after marking a line across the joints. (in case it moves some during transport). Then take it up to a shop to get them welded. Any final fine-adjustments the shop can make as they weld.

OE hangers are nice to use, there's considerable adjustment you can make with them (before welding mostly). Never 'load' the exhaust to get it where you want, over time it just rips the hangers off.

The approach has worked well for me over the years.

Personal tip: Always put an O2 bung on. You can plug it, but if you ever want to go efi, that part is done. Can be used for wide band tuning too.


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Hacksaw for cutting EXH pipes. Donta own a sawzall.

Muscle effort and the hard way are my choice, to get the exercise.

I get that, but it's tough to get a good, square cut with a saw or wheel. By the time you get to one end or the other, it can stack up.


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Understood and agree the exercise is good. But I can't keep a hacksaw moving in a straight line.

This:





The tail pipe stubs are actually pointed down a little. I started another thread about options to replace the tips I cut off:

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...errerid=160974


Good to know, thanks.... so buying a used one with worn out wheels is probably stupid.

I think I'd have to pay a shop to do this but my priority for now is to just get rid of the giant tips. The rest of the exhaust is in better shape than most of the car. It has glass packs that will have to go away some day so maybe then..

All good input, thank you.

Mike

Yeah not a good idea to buy a used ratcheting type. Even if you replace the cutters the 'frame' may be loose/worn out. It's 'best' to start with a new one, but if it's cheap enough, and you can hold it in your hand and tell if it's good or not, than maybe.

Will take a look at the other thread, but thinking just some temporary generic turn-downs is your best bet.

If you switch over to a tail valance with cutouts, that would give you more options, especially in the future.



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I was thinking. You can cut a slot across a pipe, push it together and weld it, to come up or correct off angles.

Just throwing that out there...


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Yes, I suspect that's where I'm headed, thanks.

The stub doesn't have much clamp length because of the welded hanger so I will probably have to weld whatever I do to keep it from falling off. I will likely start with a clamp-on straight section so yes, slits would let me tilt it up or down. I'm literally headed out to take a measurement, will update the other thread.

And the valance with cutouts would be fun but that's a bigger project than I want right now. Priority is a mess on the quarter panel I've been putting off for 20 years.

Thanks again for the help!

Mike

Your local muffler shop can cut them off for less than the cost of the tool. Unless you more exhaust mods planned, why bother? They can tack weld your new tips on also.

I had one of the Snap On chain cutters. It was ok for a while but will say it’s the only Snap On tool I ever threw in the trash!!