What kind of webbing is this 400
 

OK guys is this average,weak or good main webbing for a 400? Looks average to me, but I didn't have another block to compare with.

Looks to me to be the thick version.

Looks like a great candidate for 4-bolt splayed caps. Got any pics of the lifter valley?

I'll get some tomorrow Brian.

what is in the lifter valley that differentiates block to block? thanks Brian

Sorry but...........
 

looks to be the thin casting block. support under the main caps in the area under the cylinder bore. Pics are too far away. Need pics closer to the cap mate area under the cylinders in #2. 3 & 4.

I have found 4 basic 400 casting blocks. Need to take pics before I build and sell them all to customers and put on my website?

What's the date code by the distributor.

From what I see it would be good for a bacic 455 conversion with a mild cam or a 350/375 hp 400 combo.

That works for the 455 blocks and still have to check other ares on the 455's. But if Brian tells, I'll have to kill him. LOL.

I'll take some closer, but you can see the #2 main cap front and back side area.

It has less meat in the main webbing area than a 68 block or a 72 junk block I have laying around. I you look at the first pic you posted, you can see a 'step' where the cylinder ends, toward the middle of the block. Neither of mine have that but have metal there.

P-dude, I have a thin web 400 I was considering installing your stroking kit on, so I take it that it works fine? I would be looking for substantially more than 375 horses, though!

Is it possible to weld it up for more strength?

Here's closer Ken

Jeff can you snap a picture?

here's lifter valley on a 72 HO block

I wouldn't recommend that block for any higher hp applications. No support under the cylinder bore to the pan rail. But for a mild rebuild as i stated above shouldn't be an issue.

birdzz:
I wouldn't do the 4.250 deal with that block. But a 455 conversion with 9.0-1 compression, under 375hp and 5200 rpm won't be a problem.

FWIW: You can run real low 13's making 350/375 hp in basically stock chassis car.

Just bottom fill the block, deburr the block, ARP studs and have the line bore checked.

Dude, you may have just solved some of my problems with the mains on my sprint boat

All centred around #2 which looks like where Skips pic was taken. My block looks the same in this area. Using factory mounts at the front (either side of #2) the mains were moving around alot and cracked the cap outboard of the dowel on this side

Can you confirm if the "thicker" blocks have more material along the pan rail (shown "A" on my marked up version of Skips pic) Mine has "bosses" for the mount holes as per the pic also which wouldnt be visible if there were more meat there. I know the 58 etc blocks have more meat here and are looking for one here for a new boat engine build as we dont need a starter mount or any factory side mounts

Also does area "B" differ ? My current block (73 YT code) appears a little thicker here ?

Any help figuring this out would be great

Forgot to post pic (cheers Skip)

I was thinking the B area was the area toi lok at. Although I had a 70 block that to me didn't look much different, and the caps actually looked thinner to me.

My 72 455 block is on a roll araound with a pan so I can't look at it.

Anyone else got block pics??

Here are some pics from my spare 67 400 block. How is that look?

OK to me the 67 has meat all the way to the dowel whereas this block is just to the bolt area. The rails are thicker under the bore but I would think the main cap area is the more important area. Kins of subtle differences.

Skip, I also have 2 70 blocks at my dad's house. If you want I can get pics later on. To me, I really dont see much difference.

Definitly alot more meat along the pan rail below the bore in the 67 block compared to my 73 YT block (area "A")

On mine the bosses for the motor mount holes show up clearly and the rail is thinner

Hmmmmmmmmm