Cracked lead seam
 

I have a cracked lead seam at the top of my windshield pillar on a 69 gto.We noticed it on the final blocking. Bummer.
How can we fix this without taking all of the lead out?
Car is finished in final primer. Would it be ok to grind out as much lead that we can and fiberglass the seam or is that going to crack again if some lead is left?
Thanks

Ive done this in the past and it worked OK
dig the crack out until you get to the base of crack.
use all metal to fill.

Fix it right. Why would you chance it? It certainly isn't that big an area that it will set you back as far as time goes. You are already going to be mudding and repriming.

Sand the area down to expose all of the lead. Use a torch and a wire brush to remove all of the lead. Inspect the factory weld, we almost always reweld the seam to add rigidity. We coat the area with epoxy primer. We then cut a small piece if sheetmetal and weld it over the seam, after grinding a very small amount of filler is needed to complete the repair and it will NEVER be a problem again.

I understand not everyone wants to go this far, but at least remove all the lead and reweld the seam before filling it in...

I wouldnt want to take a grinder to lead, due to the health risks. Melt and scrape the lead off, reweld the seam as PaulatFast recommends & I'd prefer to re-lead it (but without using tinning paste or any acids to prevent corrosion in the seam), as anything else will crack alot easier than lead. imo

I agree with Tony.... relead it. Faster than digging it all out and doing something else. If it's releaeded the right way it should be fine. Remember, it was leaded in back in 69. It's only one spot out of several that has crack on you... that says a lot. Besides all that, lead won't rust.

Ok we will be removing the lead and fixing it the right way. Tony I used the wrong word (grind) it should of been (remove). That would be hazardous to health.

I would like to re-lead the seam but welding it I can do, and do very well. My body guy said they don't teach that art in trade school anymore. The older guys are mostly retired now.
We don't have time to learn how and this car being a fairly rare RA-3 4SPD car I don't want to practice on it. Maybe the next one.
I'd hate to slam second gear a few times and re-crack that seam after a full frame off nut and bolt resto. I won't chance that. I guess we were looking for an easy way out but you've convinced me to do the proper repair. Just a little more work. Thanks
Now wheres my torch?

Finished repair on the roof seam. Removed lead with torch, prep area with metal ready and re-weld seam, coat seam then weld in patch. Ready for body work to finish. Use fiberglass or all metal?
Thanks for the advise guys.

On my quarter sail panels I did what you are doing. For filler I 1st put down a layer of fiberstrand bodyfiller and shaped it, them skim coated it with all metal. irgoatmike

irgoatmike
I'm not sure if putting all -metal skim coated over the fiberglass is a good idea? Why would you do that? My thought was skim coat of the fiberglass filler then finish with skim coat of bondo or glaze or use all metal instead of fiberglass? I have no experience with using the all metal or my bodyman? Do I need to do that at all after welding seam?
Thanks

I would not use fiberglass filler after welding the seam and plating it. I don't use the all-metal filler on anything, it's not all metal at all. I don't get it. We simply skim the area with a good quality, pin hole free filler. then primer.

I'm not saying the other way wouldn't work. it's just not how I would do it...

Sorry I just can't help myself:.... My god what ever you do
DON'T grind the lead it will kill you in seconds.ROLMAO
Again I am sorry, Don't worry about the fumes-dust and
solvents that your breathing. Just a joke.

GT

Hey Blueghoast,
I have no idea why you would come out and say that!!! Do u think we are all stupid?
Don't YOU ever think that I have not been exposed to dangerous chemicals or sour gas etc. in my line of work. I have lost good friends and best friends because they did not know that iron sulfites and oxygen causes explosions that kill and high consentrations of H2S gas can kill you faster than U think...... Lead is a slow killer and the comment on this thread was to warn the un-informed. Period. It is not so funny to me. Sorry but I do not go for a jab.........like that and no more comments please.

I've noticed a marked difference between Metal 2 Metal and All Metal.
The All Metal is hard as a rock and almost impossible to sand to a smooth finish.
The Metal 2 Metal feels and sands like regular filler to me. It's grey color gives it the appearance of grey primer when sanded.
I would GUESS that All Metal may be a little more resistant to moisture.
I don't think either one is a bad product as long as you understand it's limitations just as you should with any other plastic filler.
Just my observations...

Use body filler. The repair shape looks real good so you only need a minimal amount of build.

I worked in the body shop in the Framingham B-O-P plant in 1972.

My station was directly across from the leading line.

There were big pots of molten lead that guys would work into the rook joints.

The cars would go thru a booth were workers in suits and respirators would use air grinders to rough it out.

Then the cars came out of the booths, and workers would use files and sandpaper to get the finish smooth. The people who did it were really skilled.

There was lead dust EVERYWHERE, and most of the guys on that line got sick in about 6-9 months.

You had to see it to believe it.

I welded the seam on my 1968 GTO convertible. worked fine. you may want to find out why the car is flexing in that area. Probably due to old body bushings ect.

Hey guys don't play around with lead or any other toxic materials used on cars. I have seen the results of not wearing protective clothing and respirators.

WOW: Didn't mean it that way, I thought it to be humorus not a jab.
I guess i see things deferently as i try to see the humor in life.
I'll just stay away from this page and again I apoligise to anyone I
upset.
See Ya.

I never thought about it when removing my rear quarters, I melted them then used a die grinder on them without even thinking twice. I'll know better next time

I use a surform file to remove what I can,then don the gear and use stiff twisted wire wheel on small side grinder.
It melts the lead,without fumes, then slings it off much like grinding,but without the airborne dust.

Back in my day we had lead paint, passed around mercury in school in your hand. We even put lead in our gasoline. Rode bicycles without helmets. Nothing wrong with us! (LOL)

Those were the good old days.