Headers hitting control arm bolt
 

Have a set of Doug's long tube headers that I have finally been able to do my mock up with eng in the car.The dr side header is hitting the rear control arm bolt I bought the car in pieces but the headers were still in the box the part number is correct for 66 GTO with d port Edlebrock heads.Anyone run into this the part number is d567 . I removed the rear control arm bolt and it looks like it will need to be cut at least a half an inch will this leave enough room for alignment shims the car has no shims in it now have been doing a complete frame off restoration.

Sorry posted in wrong forum..

I cut mine off for headers too but haven't gotten to alignment yet. The bolts are rather short for any drastic shimming needs. Might be a good excuse to go to tubular upper arms for better handling and less shims now...:D

I would not cut the bolt. BTDT. Not a good idea. These cars can require shim packs an inch thick. On my old '66 with different headers, I used a ball peen hammer and blacksmithed the header. A small divot was all that was required. I would much rather modify the exhaust to clear the suspension than the other way around.

These are ceramic coated I used a 32oz deadblow all it did was a small peen.

header fit
 

Unfortunatly the ball peen hammer is probably the better fix. They do make offset control arm shafts to help with alignment.

Try turning the bolt around so the nut is to the inside.

I don't know about factory a-arms but this fix was mentioned in the instructions of my aftermarket tubular control arms, I did it but have not had aligned yet.

Turning the bolt around and a smaller dimple might do the trick.

If the springs are already installed, you would have to compress/disassemble the springs to safely remove the bolt.

I don't know what the '66 A-bodies look like for ability to shim and clear on the a-arms, but on my x-body Buick I cut my A-arm bolt years ago and still have ~1/4 of threads showing and a ton of header clearance. The car has always tracked straight and is in perfect alignment now.

Thought about turning bolt around my frt end guy would probably kill me when he went to align frt end the bolt is supposed to be staked to the frame so it does not rotate when installing shims I used to hate it back in the day when I went to do an alignment and the bolts twisted also looked at adjustable control arm but not in the budget right now.

I'd just cut the bolt! If you need 1" of shims.....you may have other issues! Besides, you can always get another bolt. JMO...

Geeto, you are dead right about not turning the bolt around. It's spined to the frame (like a hub bolt) to keep from turning, and if you turn it around, the alignment will be a PITA, and you could end up damaging the splines in the frame rail from the bolt not being anchored and held in place as it should be. Not a good solution, IMO. Modify the header tube, IMO.

Make sure engine / trans. mounts are good / as well as the trans cross-member end bushings , install new if in doubt , if the engine is not sitting properly that could be your problem .

Everything is new including all body bushings trans mount and cross member mounts complete frt suspension rebuild called Doug's they said they should bolt right in baffled .

"said they should bolt right in"

Sorry, I am of no help here, but your quote above made me smile this evening :)

I cut mine off as well to fit. I took it to get aligned and had no issues. Actually there is quite a bit of thread left for adjustment on mine.

It'll only take a few minutes was my next guess lol..