Trans cooler recommendations
 

I've avoided installing a trans cooler because I want things to look stock, but I'm pretty sure my Tri Shield converter is heating things up a little too much as the fluid is leaking out of the overflow tube after longer drives. The fluid isn't burned or dark, but it doesn't smell fresh.

I'd like an install that looks stock-ish and clean. I'm thinking I'll have to bend a line from the outlet of the built in radiator cooler to an auxiliary cooler (mounted in front of the a/c condenser) and then another line from the outlet of the cooler that re-attaches to the stock cooler line returning to the trans.

Anyone have a clever and clean installation they'd like to share? I'm also open to cooler recommendations. Seems like a plate cooler is the way to go.

TH400 in a '68 GTO for reference.

Three ways to plumb a second trans cooler.
1. After the in-radiator cooler. Fluid is the coolest going back to the trans--which is not an advantage in winter.
2. Before the in-radiator cooler. Fluid is cooled in the summer, "heated" in the winter. Probably best in colder climates.
3. Tee'd, so that some fluid goes to one, and some fluid goes to the other. Reduces pressure in the cooler circuit.

I was thinking #1 since it never gets that cold around here.

Looking over the stock lines, they pass really close to the exhaust manifold. Wondering if that’s part of the problem.

B&M as well as other manufacturers recommend method #1:
https://static.summitracing.com/glob...er_techdoc.pdf

Auto trans fluid never smells good even when it’s brand new! Lol.

Mount brushless 12V PC fans to. A cooler with zip ties and mount Cooler to passenger floorboard. Wire fans to run off key- switched 12V.

I did and it was fine.

True. It's a second to brake fluid as my least favorite automotive fluid.

I was doing a little research yesterday and saw that Oldsmobile offered a factory trans cooler on some W cars. I don't think the pre-bent lines will transfer over to a Pontiac because of the differences in core supports, but I think I'll follow this template for and install and bend my own lines. I think I can run them under the a/c drier and not have to drill any holes.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...1&d=1699371415

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...1&d=1699371420

I run the biggest coolers I can fit, bend my own steel lines and hide the cooler up front where it can't be seen. The only clue is seeing one of the trans lines from the radiator disappearing under the core support and going to the front, and another line running to the back along the stock routing with the other line.
If done properly one really has to look at it and pay attention to even detect an extra cooler.

The Olds diagram you found gives you the idea. Modify as you see fit ;)

The larger stacked B&M cooler as in this reply is what I use.

It looks like the B&M supercooler line is either going away or in the process of being rebranded as Holley. There's no inventiory at Jegs and Summit and the Holley site only lists a few items. I was looking at a Derale 9000 series fin and plate like this one: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-13615

Yep I've used more than a couple of those. They work nice and the 1/2" NPT allows you to convert to 5/16 inverted flare fittings for factory steel lines if you care to bend your own. That way there are no hoses, no hose clamps or any of that type of "potential failure" stuff.

A couple of different trans cooler installations on my 1964 GTO and Tempest. Hopefully you can get some ideas on how to install one on your 1968 GTO.

Large B&M plate cooler on the GTO running a TH400/10” Continental converter:

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...6&postcount=27

Twin small B&M coolers on the Tempest running a 4L70E/9.5” Yank 3600 lockup converter:

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...d.php?t=608230

Thanks for digging this up. This is pretty close to what I'm after, only it will go through the radiator cooler first.

I'm looking through Summit and having trouble figuring out what adapters I might need. Seems like I need to go from a 1/2 NPT on the cooler to an inverted flare 1/2-20 on the 5/16" tube but I can't find a direct connector that does that in the catalog. Looks like you combined a couple adapters to make it work. Were you able to find the brass connectors and adapters at your local hardware/auto parts stores?

Sometimes it's easier once you have the parts in hand.

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...7.jpg~original

The best place by far was my local NAPA store, they had a huge selection of brass inverted flare fittings and pipe fittings.

You can buy your steel brake line tubing there as well. Any leftover unused fittings can easily be returned for a refund, brass fittings aren’t cheap nowadays.

I think I figured out what I need to make this work. If not, I've got a NAPA on the other side of town and a decently stocked hardware store down the road.

- Derale 33604 (9.750 in. x 10.625)
- 1/2x20 Inverted flare nuts for 5/16 tubing
- 5/16 steel hard line (steel hardline lengths from the parts store would work too)
- 1/2in NPT to 3/8in NPT reducers
- 3/8in NPT to 1/2-20 inverted flare adapters
- 1/2in x 20 inverted flare union (for the return line)

I'll figure out what I need to mount it to the core support when the cooler gets here.

Time to dig out the tubing bender and flaring tool!

I ran 6AN braided stainless lines and used these fittings for my radiator.

https://www.yogisinc.com/product_search/?q=GS231102

Received the cooler today. The good news is I ordered the right fittings. The bad news is that I was very optimistic about what would fit. Between the a/c condenser, horns, hideaway components and hood latch support I've got a very small area to mount this thing and there was no way that 9.75" x 10.625" was going to fit. I see why HIS put his on the floorboard.

However, I think I can get a shorter 9.75" x 6.25" x 1.25" plate cooler to fit. The thickness of the plate cooler is limiting because it hits the hideaway components and horns.

The other option is to get a tube cooler which is 1/2" thinner. That would give me a little more room to go taller, but I'm thinking a shorter plate cooler would be more efficient than a taller tube cooler in terms of heat dissipation.

Nope...

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1699575584

Maybe...

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1699575163

Kinda why I went with two small coolers, packaging restraints caused by the air conditioning condenser.

This is my 69 bird which has Vintage Air - initially it was up against the condenser but I ended up spacing it out for better air flow. The cooler is a B&M 70266 (11x8”)

On the air condition cars I've always been able to mount the cooler up front behind the grill with room to spare, at least on the A-bodies anyway. I just have to get a little creative and make some mounting brackets (I like my coolers floating and not mounted against another radiator or condensor) That way they are front and center with good air flow in and around the cooler.