Pulling a motor
 

Probably a dumb question, but can i use that hole attatched to the block on the d/s to lift the motor out, thinking i could use that and the hook up front on the pass side and have the chain from one end to the other, never did it this way, wanted to check with you guys if anyone has done it this way, also would i need the chain alot tighter from the way i have it now on the pic.

I do have a leveler/tilt deal, just hate hooking stuff to the aluminum heads.......and tips would be appreciated

Rich

Should be fine.
 

That should be OK, especially with aluminum heads.

I have done it that way before. Coming out it doesn't have to be too level to just get it out. Putting it back in would be more difficult to align everything.

The hook thingy on the front though will probably bend when used. The factory had a metal bar thingy that worked good.

A piece of steel long enough to bridge the chain to keep the angle on the front loop from bending could be fashioned probably.

But I usually used the head bolt holes to pull the engine with no problems.
(could use some metal shim to protect the head surface from the bolt/chain rubbing it)

:)

Will it work, sure.

The lifting points are more than adequate.

Unfortunately you have no control that way, if the chain slips in the hook or if it wants to go wonky you may end up banging into things.

Just attach the leveler to the heads, it’s not like the threads in the aluminum aren’t strong enough.

I would bolt the intake back on and use a carb lifting pad long before I’d run a chain like you have pictured to do the engine removal.

I retired my leveler ever since I bought my Mac’s Pivot Plate. As pictured below attached to the center carb flange on the ‘64 Tri-Power intake, small-base Rochester at that. I’ll never do it any other way.

Those four 5/16” carb studs are plenty strong, even with an aluminum intake.

So here we go. Last time I pulled my 3X2 engine I used the chain just like you are. I left the carbs on and put a BF screw driver thru the chain against the cook to keep it from sliding. I'm alone. Works good. Installed the same way. Everyone does it differently. If you feel confident, go for it. 78 and still wrenching!!!!!!!!!

"Bill"!

Thanks guys, i will use the old leveler, b-man i was thinking about gettting one of those years back, just worried the center carb flange studs with the alum manifold..........thought too risky, but it seems you pulled it off, trans included lol...........i only have the motor, the tkx i already pulled out.

Hoping to get this done tomorrow

Rich

FWIW, the 5/16-18, grade 2, studs/bolts are rated for a tensile strength of 2900 lbs. each. 4 will hold 11,600 lbs. they'll easily support a Stratostreak V8 at around 700 lbs. and 850 lbs. with a T 400 hanging on the backside. The worrywarts can relax............:D

:2cents:

I like this best
 

Attachment 658267

Engine comes out and goes back in nice and level

This brings up the question, to pull engine/trans as a unit or to pull engine alone then remove trans…

We almost always pull the motor by itself. Even if it's a four speed, I'll remove the trans and pull the engine with the bell housing attached. Only time I use a leveler is when doing the motor and trans together.

Almost always pull both together using load leveler - usually working alone…

I am a engine and trans separate guy. Done it too many time to change now. Besides, have a mid plate now and its not happening together. Mid plate, elephant ears and Mighty Mounts all together.

Hey thanks guys, got that puppy out today, went fairly easy, other than more anti-freeze leaking was not too bad of a job.......still thinking of getting one of those tilt deals like b-man has, just cant get it out of my head hanging the whole motor with the center carb on a tri power manifold. sometimes those studs feel loose just taking off the air cleaners. lol.

Next step finding someone who can get a one pc rms on without it leaking, this will be the 4th time for me.

Thanks again.......Rich

You should definitely contact BOP for tech advice on this

Do you did not remove the 1/8” pipe plugs below the motor mounts on each side of the block to get all the coolant out?

The thought never crossed my mind untill i seen more green stuff coming out. lol............will look into taking them out this week

Hey Will, did talk to Wade, picked up all my supplys at his house, hes only a hr or so away from me...................the shop that re-ringed my motor said they had alot of experience with this one pc seal, who knows.

Just get the leveler rich. Once you do you'll wonder why you didn't have it sooner.

We've talked about this around here many times and I posted pics just like bman posted making many around here nervous lol.

I've pulled more engine trans combos than I can count with that leveler and it makes it extremely easy, especially if you're on your own like I am most of the time.

I've pulled GM 502's with iron heads and a 400 turbo attached using that leveler with an aluminum intake. Iron Ford Y-blocks fully dressed with iron transmissions attached, you name it that little leveler is a work horse.

Can one of you guys post a few good pics of that leveler ? The mechanism . I could make one out of scrap metal at work. Night shift is great.

Anyone that has done it for a living leaves the transmission in the car, and pulls only the engine. You eliminate a lot of work by leaving the transmission in the car, plus it saves on transmission fluid and the red lake you almost always end up with on the garage floor. You eliminate taking cooling lines off, plus reinstalling the driveshaft, shift linkage etc.

If you have ever worked flat rate, it saves you money, and time.

No leveler required, it goes in and out level without 120 lbs hanging off the rear.

:2cents: