Quote:
Originally Posted by 67drake
‘61 Olds Cutlass with stock points ignition
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 67drake
Car has spark, fires, but not starting. Fresh points, plugs, condenser. Keeps fouling plugs out.
Thinking maybe I have a spark, but maybe too weak, I dug further into the ignition.
1.5 ohms on primary side of coil, that looks to be in spec.
7100 on secondary side, that appears to be a bit on the low side according to specs for a ‘61 Cutlass 215 V8
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What is the resistance from primary windings to ground? Should be "Infinite" resistance--OPEN CIRCUIT, NO CONTINUITY.
AFTER your coil has passed all three resistance checks, it may still be defective. The only way for a typical D-I-Y to know if the coil is good is to get the coil appropriately warm, mist it with water from a squirt-bottle, and see if it will still reliably throw a spark across a spark-tester calibrated for ballast-resistor style ignition. There are multiple designs and even more vendors, but this is my favorite kind:
Pay ZERO attention to the "small engines" claims.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OK6MIO/...=2VLYZKC3HBBDO
DO NOT BUY any "spark tester"
where the spark makes a light-bulb glow. You want one where you can SEE the spark jump an actual,
calibrated gap.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 67drake
I’m showing 5.1-5.2 volts at positive side of coil with key in the run position. I read that it should be 7-9, and that 5 could cause a weak spark.
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Points OPEN, or points CLOSED? Kinda guessing the points are closed, and your readings are approximately normal.
What is the battery voltage with no load? Should be about 12.6--12.8 depending on battery construction and temperature. 12.5 is 1/4 discharged. 12.0 is near-dead.