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#1
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Champion has a 4 core aluminum radiator for my '71 bird that is supposed to cool 1000hp. Has anyone tried one of these? One place has it for $275 direct fit with trans cooler built in.
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#2
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I just got one for my 69. Looks good, not installed yet though.
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#3
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aren't the 2 row aluminums better than the 4 core? how thick is the radiator, or more importantly, how wide are the rows? the whole point of aluminum is that you can make wider rows, typically (2) 1" rows. this cools better than a copper/brass radiator with (4) 3/8" rows, even though as a material brass/copper cools better than aluminum. that would make the pecking order:
1. 2 x 1" row aluminum 2. 4 x 3/8" row copper/brass 3. 4 x 3/8" row aluminum
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John J. ![]()
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#4
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Quote:
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#5
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i haven't heard about the 1 1/4"! that's a wide (thick, i should say) rad! most people don't like the epoxy that griffin uses (though griffin continually defends it). how's it holding up for you?
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John J. ![]()
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#6
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Yeh...I jumped on one as well. Not sure about the fin configuration. May cool well at idle, but not flow enough air at speed. We shall see. Will likely be a month or two before mine is in service. It is guaranteed to cool, so if it does not, I will return it for a 2 or 3 core. Can't find much feed back on them so far...must be pretty new design. RAIV-Z...let us know if you get it up and running.
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#7
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I have had the rad for 5 years with no issues.
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#8
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I bought a Champion for my 75 formula. A/T. been running it now on the new 455 I built for about 3 months. Cools well and fit "almost" perfectly in a totally stock setup,
I had to trim the driver corner of the Core support a small amount as the radiator was a tad thicker then stock. I cut off the small flap that ties the side and bottom together in the corner so that the rear of the radiator hangs over the core support ever so slightly. ![]() Took about 5 minutes. I had to trim the plastic shroud in a circular fashion around the cap to allow easier romoval, Some pictures here. http://www.flickr.com/photos/fassofamily/4983915775/ I trimmed the shroud just a hair to shave down the couple of ribs that run across the shroud top inside. Or else it made the shroud tilt up a bit. Cools my car in 95 degree stop and go to 190. The rest of the time I'm in the 180's. I used the stock insulators on the bottom just squared up the opening with a razor. I used some other thick foam on the sides and top to give it some cushion. I'm Happy with it. It sat in my garage for a year before I put it in.
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-- James Work '67 GTO Convertible "Koerner Built 413 500 hp with a Victor!.. I'll run a stock intake." '75 Formula 400 - Daily Driver - Running with my Home Built 455 and TH400 Details here: http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=588372 |
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#9
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I have a 71 GTO, June 2009 I installed a direct fit aluminum radiator from Summit and never looked back, stock water pump with the Jim Hand Mod to it. A 160 thermostat runs 160, a 180 thermostat runs 180. Stock 7 blade clutch fan no cooing issue whatsoever. The best news is the radiator is literally a direct bolt in.
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71 Goatman Hot Rods & Horsepower.......A diease for which there is no cure. 71 GTO, 463, SD 295 d-port heads, 10.75:1, RPM intake, 502hp/560tq @ the crank, 200r4, 10" Continental convertor, Bullet 234/244 cam, Cliff's Q-Jet, 3:42's w/Eaton True Trac, 5 Power Tours. New performance numbers coming
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#10
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Two minor fitment issues top radiator cover on the support needed trim for extra width and the flare fittings on my existing lines were too short to seat the flare. I had to find some flare adapters (5/16 to 3/8 flare)that went in deeper and reducer fittings(3/8 to 5/16) for those to go back to my original fittings. NBD. BTW heres a link to where I got mine ($259.00 WITH shipping). It even comes with a radiator cap. Its fully welded, NO epoxy! Plan on buying another one for my wifes Firebird. http://stores.ebay.com/Kool-Radiator...=p4634.c0.m322 OR CALL 714 599 3336 Last edited by BruceWilkie; 09-19-2010 at 06:45 PM. |
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#11
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FWIW, next time I buy a radiator, I'm probably going with these guys.
Expensive, but looks stock and ALL WELDED, no epoxy. http://www.chevellecooling.com/58.html
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Regards, "455HO" Lloyd 2008 GMC Sierra Denali 2WD Crew, L92 6L80E, Silver w/ Ebony guts, 14.26 @ 98 |
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#12
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Thanks for the reply....good news!! Glad to here it works well. Hope to have mine in service in a month or so. An engine swap turned into a under hood/suspension restore. The car is too nice on the outside to look so bad under the hood, especially with the new motor. I'll report on the results. Also plan to run the stock fan/clutch and a/c.
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#13
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Just purchased a Griffin direct fit w/2x1.25 tubes from my local speed shop at 595 double the cost of champion but made in USA
and should cool better. There was no need to trim any part of the shroud to make it fit it is a true drop in direct fit. What I would like to correct is the epoxy myth. All griffin rads are brazed and then some of their rads are epoxied on top of the braze to add strength. If you go to the FAQ at their site it states this and the tech guy confirmed this. Not all of their rads receive epoxy the direct fit I have did not
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#14
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#15
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#16
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you just said they use epoxy, so how is it a myth?
__________________
John J. ![]()
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#17
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Some believe they only use epoxy, the epoxy is used to add strength to core in addition to the braze, also it may also help to dampen vibration (this is my thought not theirs). The epoxy is good to about 400F. Griffin manufactures all part here in USA to control all aspects of the end product
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#18
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that begs the question: is the brazing so weak that it needs 'added strength'?
__________________
John J. ![]()
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#19
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In the 'Pontiac - Street' forum, we are trying to get a group buy from Griffin. Give it a look, it's a very good deal.
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