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#1
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e head questions alot of questions
1st off coolant flow back to/towards heater core. how do i restrict the flow as to not wreck the heater core as i have read here? i noticed the head bolts some go into the exhaust port, what do i do to seal this off? pipe dope? just trying to get ahead of some issues as i find them. thanks again Joe
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72 Luxury Lemans nicely optioned |
#2
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any other issues you have found that i should get ready to address.?
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#3
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Don't assume that fully assembled eheads are ready to run. On mine, the stock valve job from Edelbrock on the exhaust side was .005" OOR which is a lot. The ports were pretty rough too.
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#4
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Quote:
Anymore, new heads I buy go straight to the machine shop for a thorough going over checking springs, install height, valve job and valve guide clearances etc....In some cases changing/recutting the valve job if there is a more favorable one that shows gains on the flow bench. I typically pay for some flow bench testing as well because advertised numbers from many of these suppliers are often inflated. |
#5
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Do you have the standard coolant fitting that comes with Eheads?
you can drill and tap the fitting portion that screws into the head install a plug then drill the plug with a 1/4 drill bit or 5/16 whatever floats your boat
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If your not at the table you're on the menu A man who falls for everything stands for nothing. |
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#6
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I've never found any need to modify the coolant passage for heater cores on E heads, or any other brand for that matter, never blown a heater core.
But if you have extra time and really feel the need then what formula mentioned sounds like it would work. |
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#7
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Yep. Mine ain`t restricted and I have spun my engine to 6000 to 6400 many times without problems.
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#8
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Due to teh warning I read about restricting the coolant at the heater core, I used a thick stainless washer with a ~1/4-5/16 hole in it, installed in the heater hose right at the heater core inlet, pushed it down in the hose as far as the hose goes on the core inlet. I also use a AN fitting in the head that has a smaller opening in it than the ID of the heater hose, both those things restrict the flow if that helps the heater core any... I didnt thing it would be a problem but was talked into adding the washer just to be safe.
The head bolts dont need any sealer, but the top 2 valve cover bolts do need some, i use normal thread sealer that lasts a couple time removing, using studs with loctite works too. |
#9
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Quote:
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#10
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The AN fitting was probably enough of a restriction at ~3/8-7/16 ID. |
#11
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My bad, should've said.....It was recycled PTFE (teflon)...I chose it for its heat and chemical resistance.
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#12
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Check your factory heater core inlet. Some of these are designed as a flow restriction to begin with. If the inlet nipple is dimpled, this creates the flow restriction to stop the wall of fluid to the core on hard acceleration. You can add additional inline restriction that is talked about already, but you may not need to.
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-Jason 1969 Pontiac Firebird |
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#13
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I've never blown up a heater core either, but all mine are new. If you have a 50+ year old heater core in your car, you would be better off just changing it instead of restricting core coolant flow.
Not sure how much that will impact psi, none I would think, so really doubt the 'fix' helps. As for valve cover bolts, it's only 2 intake ports on each head, and that's only if you have ported heads beyond a certain point. If you do have ported heads, sealant would be what you use, don't use any thread locker. You need e-head compatible hardware too, be it bolts or studs. Some of the pads on the heads are a little lower and bolts/stud threads will bottom out before you reach the required torque value/clamping. You may want to have your intake checked so they are true to the head surfaces too. Not that it's specific to E-heads, should do it for any build really. .
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. 1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624 1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be |
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#14
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Has the age of the heads been verified ? The early heads prior to 3/15/02 used different head bolts than newer heads.
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'70 TA / 505 cid / same engine but revised ( previous best 10.63 at 127.05 ) Old information here: http://www.hotrod.com/articles/0712p...tiac-trans-am/ Sponsor of the world's fastest Pontiac powered Ford Fairmont (engine) 5.14 at 140 mph (1/8 mile) , true 10.5 tire, stock type suspension https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDoJnIP3HgE |
#15
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Quote:
the guy i got them from did give me arp head bolts that came off when the heads got pulled. i wonder if i could figure it out maybe doing some measuring?
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#16
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Quote:
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. 1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624 1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be |
#17
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Information on the Edelbrock link offers some notes on the subject. Personally I've always used a ARP stud kit on my heads.
https://www.edelbrock.com/pontiac-he...-kit-8556.html https://www.edelbrock.com/edelbrock-...ock-heads.html Note that Edelbrock Cylinder Heads for the Pontiac 389-455 engine require a special head bolt. The head bolt boss heights have been changed in the Pontiac cylinder head to eliminate problems with cracking at the upper head bolt boss end for high-output applications. The new head bolt boss height also simplifies the head bolt kit by requiring only three different lengths instead of six different lengths in the previous head bolt kit. .
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'70 TA / 505 cid / same engine but revised ( previous best 10.63 at 127.05 ) Old information here: http://www.hotrod.com/articles/0712p...tiac-trans-am/ Sponsor of the world's fastest Pontiac powered Ford Fairmont (engine) 5.14 at 140 mph (1/8 mile) , true 10.5 tire, stock type suspension https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDoJnIP3HgE |
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#18
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Yes it is just the top 2 valve cover bolts that need the sealer, but its on stock unported 72cc O-port heads too, at least the non CNC 72cc, others may be different. Mine are unported and the top 2 bolt holes are open. I use thread sealer on the top 2 bolts but have read of others using studs on them with loctite to seal and keep in place.
I have seen the end of the heat core inlet tube crimped down on aftermarket ones, but wasnt the factory head outlet fitting designed with a restriction to limit flow too? I couldnt find anything like that for the E-heads threaded hole so I went with a curved AN fitting, think it was a -10 or -12. |
#19
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Great points guys thanks for the help!
I just got off the phone with edelbrock and according to will the tech help said they is no way of knowing how old they are. i dropped them off at the machine shop yesterday and will know if they are good or not in a few days. My heater core is new....well 10yrs old anyways lol
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#20
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The first run E-heads used five different head bolt lengths unlike the later versions so that set of bolts will tell you right there without measuring anything.
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1964 Tempest Coupe LS3/4L70E/3.42 1964 Le Mans Convertible 421 HO/TH350/2.56 2002 WS6 Convertible LS1/4L60E/3.23 |
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