[Blue '66]

I am not there yet but I am looking at OEM fans and it looks like the Taurus fan looks like is one that seems to fit well.I was hoping some of you would have some info and some pics of of the setup?Is there a another fan(s) that fits the '64-'67 top/bottom tank radiator?
Thanks!

Eric

[70GS455]

It's a good fan, moves alot of air. Make sure you have enough current to run it. It is kinda thick at the motor, however, don't know if the 64-67 has enough space between the water pump and rad. But the platsic shroud can be easily trimmed.

[Blue '66]

I was planning to use a higher rated oem alt like a '84 camaro.I didn't know the fan was that thick,thats why I was hoping for pictures.

[1967Tempest]

No crap about the zip ties!!! I haven't installed the bracket that I made.

Fan Controller is from Hollister. Will work for Ford Taurus fans and the Mark VIII. They are great!! They have them in stock and ship the next day. Another guy makes something similar but does take awhile. I had a bad temp sender after a week. Called them, they sent another one out for free. Got it in 2 days.

http://www.thehollisterroadcompany.com/default.html

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Tauru...item1c0fb3366d

This fan the the Mark VIII. The fan can also be removed from Ford Thunderbirds. I have 2 spares. The last one I got out of the Junk yard for 20$. It is a 2 speed. In the winter it runs the car too cold on low. In the Summer she runs at 170* on low. On high the thermostat closes. The fan MOVES air. As you can see it is so close to the radiator, that it is very efficient.

I have a 1000CCA battery and a Summit 100 Amp alt.

HTH,
Dave

[stobin]

Blue 66: I am running a 2-speed Taurus fan on my Grand Am. It was a junkyard find as well for $20. I have had great results with the set up. Just make sure that you run at least a 10 or 8 gauge wire from the motor. I am using the low speed circuit as the primary, and have the high speed set up to a switch if needed. These fans pull a large amount of current on start-up. I am running each speed with it's own 75 amp relay. Overkill, but safe. A lot of people report melted wires and blown fuses with these fans mainly due to the fact that they are trying to cheap out on the parts. Solder all the connections as well. I was even able to fit the fan inside my factory shroud without trimming the Taurus shroud. I am running a basic $40 Hypertech temp sensor 200/185, nothing exotic is needed. Works great.

[dracowizard]

Are there any particuliar years for the Taurus Fan that is good to hunt for? Meanwhile i'll check the links to ebay and also for the hollister and hypertech pieces. This looks as though this could be a good choice for my 65project.

[drailed]

Not sure on the Taurus but have read a few places that the 98 Mark VIII fans put out the most cfm. I would imagine the earlier ones would be plenty sufficient also. Somewhere in the range of 4500 cfm.

[1967Tempest]

I know that it isn't original and all, but when you trim the Mark VIII fan, it pulls soo much air on low. If you have a good tune on the motor, you will almost never turn it to high.

I was at a car show last year parked next to a judge with a clutch fan. His car was rock solid 190*. It was hot and humid and his car never budged. I asked him what he did to the motor and he said that it was all original.

Mine was at 170* with the fan cycling on and off on low. The sensor I have now turns it on at 195*. A little high, but is ok for cleaning out the carbon etc...

If I turn it on high it runs too cold in the winter. The 160* t-stat closes and the heat goes away.

HTH,
Dave

[lust4speed]

I used the Taurus fan and have the thermostat wired through the low speed circuit - which is all it needs.

One warning is that either low or high speed can be chosen, but not both together so you have to wire accordingly. I used a on-off-on toggle switch with the bottom setting run to the fan thermostat switch which controlled one set of dual relays; and the top on setting went to another set of dual relays that allowed the fan to run on high. I haven't had the need to take it off the low speed automatic setting.

I didn't have to do any trimming on the Taurus shroud.

[Blue '66]

Originally Posted by lust4speed

I used the Taurus fan and have the thermostat wired through the low speed circuit - which is all it needs.

One warning is that either low or high speed can be chosen, but not both together so you have to wire accordingly. I used a on-off-on toggle switch with the bottom setting run to the fan thermostat switch which controlled one set of dual relays; and the top on setting went to another set of dual relays that allowed the fan to run on high. I haven't had the need to take it off the low speed automatic setting.

I didn't have to do any trimming on the Taurus shroud.

Thanks for the reply!How did you attach the fan to the radiator?Is the fan loud on low?

[1967Tempest]

Originally Posted by Blue '66

Thanks for the reply!How did you attach the fan to the radiator?Is the fan loud on low?

Mark VIII fan on low, not that loud. With it on high I can hear it only because the hood is off right now.

You will not hear it at all compared to a mechanical fan.

[Gary D]

I have a 95 Taurus fan I just installed in my 67 GTO. I know the BLACK is my ground, the Brown/Orange stripe splits into 2 (is this the high low circuits you guys are talking about?) and there is a Blue wire I have no idea what is does.
I currently cut off the dual leads on the BR/OR stripe wire and am running one #10 wire from a continuous duty solenoid.
The Blue is not hooked up at all.
I would like to ba able to switch from low to high when needed only

[lust4speed]

My Taurus fan is louder than it should be because I managed to pick one that came off a very high mileage car. I think the best response to noise is that these Mark VIII's were on high end Lincolns, and I don't remember hearing the fan on any Taurus I was around either.

I have always stayed away from the nylon ties that go through the radiator fins. I just used allen head cap bolts securing the top of the shroud to the top of the aluminum radiator. On the bottom I just used an aluminum bracket from the bottom of the core support to the bottom of the shroud (which can be seen on my first photo). I guess I did do some trimming for the shroud to clear the radiator top bracket and also to trim it down equal to the top of the radiator. If you were using a stock radiator then you could probably secure the shroud on the sides or run an additional strap across the top to have something to bolt to.

[hgerhardt]

Use a 4th gen V8 F-body fan/shroud. It fits the 66-67 core area perfectly (at least for the A/C cars) and it has two fans, which gives more clearance for the water pump pulley.

[Blue '66]

Originally Posted by hgerhardt

Use a 4th gen V8 F-body fan/shroud. It fits the 66-67 core area perfectly (at least for the A/C cars) and it has two fans, which gives more clearance for the water pump pulley.

Do you have a pic of your set -up?

Lust4speed:How much room do you have between the fan pulley and fan motor?

[hgerhardt]

Originally Posted by Blue '66

Do you have a pic of your set -up?

Here you go, the pics ain't too good, being at night... but you get the idea. Note that this is a '66 GTO and I have a mid-'70-up long-snout water pump. The original pump would have 1" more clearance. I made brackets from alum angle stock and attached to the fan shroud holes in the core support.

[Blue '66]

Thanks!I'm not dead set on a Taurus fan,I am just looking for a fan that fits the '66 radiator and that looks good.Does the 4th Gen fan have large voltage spikes on startup?Do you use/need the 2nd fan?Are the fan(s)quiet?

[1967Tempest]

Originally Posted by hgerhardt

Here you go, the pics ain't too good, being at night... but you get the idea. Note that this is a '66 GTO and I have a mid-'70-up long-snout water pump. The original pump would have 1" more clearance. I made brackets from alum angle stock and attached to the fan shroud holes in the core support.

Did you ever post what you running temps were with this set-up? Also, I have the Hollister relay and was curious if I could run the low/one fan high/two fans?

What did you pay for the fans..

Anyone done this with the crossflow rad?

Thanks
Dave

[1967Tempest]

Originally Posted by lust4speed

My Taurus fan is louder than it should be because I managed to pick one that came off a very high mileage car. I think the best response to noise is that these Mark VIII's were on high end Lincolns, and I don't remember hearing the fan on any Taurus I was around either.

I have always stayed away from the nylon ties that go through the radiator fins. I just used allen head cap bolts securing the top of the shroud to the top of the aluminum radiator. On the bottom I just used an aluminum bracket from the bottom of the core support to the bottom of the shroud (which can be seen on my first photo). I guess I did do some trimming for the shroud to clear the radiator top bracket and also to trim it down equal to the top of the radiator. If you were using a stock radiator then you could probably secure the shroud on the sides or run an additional strap across the top to have something to bolt to.

Good point about the nylon ties that go through the rad. I have a Griffen rad and on the Mark VIII fans there are no provisions for the allen head way.

One of the draw backs. I have an upper support, but it is for the rad to the frame.

Dave

[lust4speed]

I'll have to check on the clearance of the Taurus fan to the water pump pulley.

The normal Bosch type 30/40 amp relays hold up fine and I haven't even had a problem with the inexpensive ebay relays. I went and doubled the relays but I've also read that one relay will always close before the second relay and I'm really not doing any good - but hey, I feel better and if nothing else the second relay will be there to take over if the first one fails.

The problem area is the initial current when the fan fires up on high. The current can momentarily reach 60 to 80 amps depending on the condition of the fan, but this only lasts for less than a second. This short current draw can pop a normal fast blow fuse. The recommended way around this is to use fusible link instead of a fuse because it easily puts up with the momentary current draw on high speed start up. My battery is in the trunk and I took power for the fan circuit off the solenoid on the driver's side firewall to the relays located on the passenger side cowl support. Because of the run, I used 8 gauge with 6" of 12 gauge fusible link. If you are coming off the battery in the normal location with a short run, then 10 gauge with 6" of 14 gauge fusible link would work good to the relays. This fusible link protects both high and low circuit relays, all the wiring after that, and the fan. So we have the "fused" supply line coming into both sets of relays with a load line going out to the fan's high and low circuits. All you really need at this point is the trigger wire from an ignition source (which is probably already fused) to the switch input terminal on the low speed relay only. This simple system has the fan on low whenever the ignition switch is on. This is the most basic wiring circuit for a fan.

Next a thermostat switch can be inserted in the system, and you might want to take the trigger wire directly from an always-on source. This would mimic what the fan did in the original car where it can stay on until the thermostat says it is cool enough to shut off. I just use the thermostat wiring to trigger the relay so it only has to deal with very low current. Some of the thermostat units being sold will bring the fan on line slowly and will avoid the initial high current draw. If you are only using low speed (and it seems that most of us are) then the startup current is moderate. I might start off with only wiring up the low speed side and just taping off the high speed unless there is a need for more air flow.

There are many different ways to wire up a fan, and this only covers a basic installation. I didn't mention the necessary grounding of the relays and fan, but all the small stuff has to also be done.