[russosborne]

Ok. Sectional roll up door. About 16 feet wide (double car garage). I have to replace the bottom brackets and reattach the spring cables. They are already off the door. Don't ask. I probably need to replace some or all of the rollers as well. Maybe even some hinges (one or two of the ones that the rollers go in look like they might be twisted)

The door is in the down position.

I was thinking that I could just unbolt the individual panels, roll/lift them up til I could lift the bottom panel .Do the repair/replacing. Then support the panel, reattach all the other panels, and then I could reattach the cables. I've read online that doing the lifting or even removing of the panels is "not hard". Not sure if they were thinking about a 16 foot section.

So I unbolt the top panel and try to lift it. Either I am way weak, or that thing weighs a ton. Might have been my position on a ladder and leverage, not sure. I was worried about it coming out/falling, so maybe I didn't try hard enough.

So am I thinking wrong about all this? I really would prefer having a pro do it, but don't have the money. Also don't have anyone that could help out.

Thanks,
Russ

[6t7gto]

If it is a wood door, individual panels are cumbersome.
Better get someone to help.
If you are just replacing hinges and rollers, do them one at a time.
No need to remove the entire panels.

[1967Tempest]

Originally Posted by russosborne

So I unbolt the top panel and try to lift it. Either I am way weak, or that thing weighs a ton. Might have been my position on a ladder and leverage, not sure. I was worried about it coming out/falling, so maybe I didn't try hard enough.

Without the springs, the door will be very hard to lift. 67 is right, the part can be found ok, but most of the time they have square fastners and they are painted on and tough to line up if you separate the panels.

Rollers are like 2 second fix.

[400 4spd.]

Get help! Even if it's someone to watch while you work. Things can go bad quick working on those.
Long ago two of us helped a co-worker install and adjust a 12 foot door on his detached garage. After we left, the guy decided to make a small adjustment.
For two hours he screamed for help while he stood on a ladder with his hand trapped in the cable pulley, the weight the wedged door trying to pull the cable clamp through his hand.
When he heard a neighbor drive up across the street and close the car door, he licked out a pane of glass. That is what finally got him help.


Tell us about the "Dont ask!"

[russosborne]

Yeah, the cables are the big worry.

I will need to have the door up to reconnect those, correct?

I am pretty sure this is a wooden door, it is vinyl clad though, so I am not sure. Where the hardware attaches it has threaded inserts.

I know I can do the hardware stuff with the door together, but was hoping to kill two birds with one stone. I have a new to me Lemans body sitting on my driveway that I really need to get in the garage. I was thinking if I took the door apart I could do both.

The bottom panel of the door is pretty jammed right now. I had the door supported while partially open while I was trying to get the rollers back where they should be. Couldn't do it, and was going on a trip later that day, so I had to get the door closed. So I disconnected the cables and removed the support. Door didn't drop, so I carefully ( I like my toes where they are) pushed down on it and it dropped. More like slammed. That is where it is at today.

If I just replaced the bad rollers/hinges/brackets do you think it would be possible for me to get the door up enough to re connect the cables? That is my big worry. Replacing the hardware is the easy part.

Thanks,
Russ

[salem1912]

Russ, few things to add,put a cinder block or 6x6 under the door in case it comes flying down and look for spots you can jam a screwdriver into the rails. You are not going to be able to lift the door yourself get help. If you have the springs that hang on each side make sure you put safety cables though the center of them,if the spring would break they won't come down on your car. Simple easy and cheap insurance. Hers a link http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infgar/infgar1d.html . Door repair isn't hard but just take your time and know that each panel can be lifted but hook two or three and you have a lot of weight come down to your toe's. Good Luck Tom

[sleepy]

Some pix of the damage would help determine if you can just fix the bottom in place or if you'd be better off taking the whole door apart and starting over. Definitely get some help as 16ft sections are almost impossible for 1 man to muscle around.

[russosborne]

Tom, thanks for that link, it is a big help. I don't have that type of springs, but there are some good articles on that site. I have a tension rod mounted to the header above the door, that has the spring wrapped around it.

Sleepy, yeah, I didn't think I could do it alone. sigh. I'll get some pictures later, but I think my best bet would be for me to replace all the stuff that needs replacing, and try to figure out how to get someone that could help me lift it so I can reattach the cables. I don't have anyone available for a quick "could you give me a hand" type stuff.

Thanks,
Russ

[Johnnygoose]

I don't think you lift the door to attach the cables. Here's a good site that may help.

http://ddmgaragedoors.com/diy-instru...on-springs.php

[Sidponcho]

I just installed 2 9'x8' doors myself. Used the old tracks. Old doors UP, step ladders under them. Remove the springs. With a helper, lower the door in steps to the ground. Remove old doors section at a time. Install new doors section at a time. Have helper push them up. Reattach springs. This was with smaller doors and extension springs. The torsion bar springs are a whole different story, and I probably wouldnt mess with those myself.

[FirebirdHank]

If you are thnking about replacing all the hardware anyway it will be just as easy to completely disassemble the door and re-asemble it with the new parts.
Torsion springs are pretty easy to work with if you use the correct steps. There is no need to lift the entire door, once the cables are connected to the door the springs are wound until the tension is enough to lift the door. Two 1/2" steel rods about 18" long are all you need to wind the springs. I'm sure detailed instructions are on the net somewhere.
Torsion springs are safer then "stretch springs" but there is still danger involved. If you are in doubt about doing it yourself, you probably shouldn't.
Good luck

[russosborne]

Thanks, all.
The link that Johnnygoose posted shows how to replace the springs. Which would work for loosening and retighening the old ones.
This link by the same person, http://ddmgaragedoors.com/diy-instru...on-springs.php is really what I need to do. My springs are fine, it is just that the cables are off of the bottom brackets, and I have to replace those brackets if nothing else.

Not having a helper is what is causing my real concern. Oh well. I will most likely have to replace the hardware myself and have a pro do the rest. When I win the lottery.

Russ

[russosborne]

Well, the last couple of hours were interesting. I went out to the garage determined to do something. Not sure what, but get something done. I now have no garage door on the garage, it is along the side of the garage.

I was looking at it and couldn't find the brand, but I did notice a sticker that among other things said urethane filled. So I figured that it couldn't be a solid wooden door and decided to go for it. I unbolted the top section from the hinges, and was going to lift it up and let it hang down as one website said could be done. Well, it decided not to cooperate, and one roller came off the track. I was on a ladder, so I stepped down and rested the section on top of the ladder. Then I moved it around a little to gauge the weight, and it didn't seem too bad. So I got it down, and drug it outside. Being that far along, I decided to really go for broke and did the next section. I found that if I picked it up in the middle I could handle it fairly easily and carried it and the others outside.

May have found the cause of the initial problem. The right side (from inside the garage) bottom bracket had a groove that was being cut into it. Haven't looked yet to see what did it. But what then happened is that the stub that holds the cable pulled up and the bracket broke along that groove. Will try to figure that one out later. Seriously needed a break, and we need to go grocery shopping soon.

I have found that there are several different gauges of metal that you can get the hinges in, but I haven't found any bottom brackets like that. If anyone knows of a "heavy duty" bottom bracket I'd appreciate it. My garage opener is the type that mounts on and turns the torsion bar (Wayne Dalton i-drive)(I think) and I am worried that there is extra pressure being put on the bottom brackets cable stub because of that.

Thanks,
Russ

[burd]

Find a good garage door place, I have one by me that stocks parts, panels, openers, remotes, hard to find weatherstripping, , springs everything.