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Ames Customer Satisfaction Forum Post a 'current' compliment, suggestion or issue with regard to an Ames service or product. |
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#1
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65 GTO High Efficiency Radiator
Has anyone purchased one of these radiators from Ames? I purchased one for my one owner original 65 GTO. The first thing I noticed, the ears on the radiator cap were not aligned parallel with the radiator like my original radiator. Also, it had a lot of white residue inside. I also did not see any improvement in cooling. Am I doing something wrong?
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#2
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As far as the cooling ... could be any one of half a dozen things causing problems instead of the radiator, so hard to tell.
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I'm World's Best Hyperbolist !! |
#3
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These are things I have done and checked. I am running a 180 deg. thermostat, the radiator has been re-corded and has been checked for flow. After driving on the freeway at about 3,000 RPM for 15 miles on an 80 deg day, the radiator inlet temperature is about 215, and the outlet temperature is about 205. As soon as I get on surface streets, the inlet temperature drops back to 185, and the outlet temperature is about 170. I am using 93 octane gas spiked with VP C12 (108 octane) with 6 deg initial advance in the distributor, factory specs.
1. Installed SS spacer plates in the front cover. 2. Changed three different water pumps with different impeller configurations. 3. Re-gapped the spacer plate to the water pump impeller from .187 to .080-in. 4. Purchased a new fan clutch. 5. Installed a temperature gauge in the radiator outlet hose to monitor cooling across the radiator. 6. Added a fan shroud. 7. Flushed the cooling system with muriatic acid. 8. Flushed the cooling system with plain water and bursts of compressed air. 9. Changed from an anti-freeze to a water-wetter solution. 10. Made an adapter to solid mount the original aluminum 7-blade fan. 11. Checked the thermostat in hot water for proper opening temperature. 12. Tried putting two different size orifices at the radiator inlet, 3/8 and 1/2-in. 13. Checked the intake manifold temperature sending unit for proper output. |
#4
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#5
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High Efficiency radiator
I wish someone could offer some suggestions that I haven't tried yet. The heating problem occurs when driving on the freeway at a cruising RPM of about 3,000 at 75 deg air temp for about 20 miles or greater. I have done the following:
1. Installed SS spacer plates in the front cover. 2. Changed three different water pumps with different impeller configurations. 3. Re-gapped the spacer plate to the water pump impeller from .187 to .080-in. 4. Purchased a new fan clutch. 5. Installed a temperature gauge in the radiator outlet hose to monitor cooling across the radiator. 6. Added a fan shroud. 7. Flushed the cooling system with muriatic acid. 8. Flushed the cooling system with plain water and bursts of compressed air. 9. Changed from an anti-freeze to a water-wetter solution. 10. Made an adapter to solid mount the original aluminum 7-blade fan. 11. Checked the thermostat in hot water for proper opening temperature. 12. Tried putting two different size orifices at the radiator inlet, 3/8 and 1/2-in. 13. Checked the intake manifold temperature sending unit for proper output. |
#6
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#7
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A two row aluminum radiator with one inch or larger tubes will outperform a three or four row radiator by a wide margin. Your radiator is inadequate.
Don |
#8
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Uttergto ... I would suggest posting this in the heating and cooling section, you will get WAY more responses.
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I'm World's Best Hyperbolist !! |
#9
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Found a Heating and Cooling title, but could not open it.
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#10
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Found a Heating and Cooling title, but could not open it.
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#11
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High Efficiency radiator
Everything is factory original except for the fan shroud; it is a plastic shroud from Ames. Driving on the freeway, the outlet temperature approaches the inlet temperature, and that's when I exit.
I am familiar with the equation Q=mCp delta T, where Q=heat transfer rate, m=mass flow rate, Cp=specific heat, and delta T= change in temperature. As the delta T approaches zero, the heat transfer rate also approaches zero. I thought that eliminating the fan clutch and direct driving the factory aluminum 7-blade fan would help, but not much help. Next, I will tape a piece of yarn to a welding rod and check the airflow around the radiator. I guess I could try eliminating the fan shroud. I don't know how to insert photos. Thanks, Rowland |
#12
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Had similar problem. Tried everything you tried. Solution was to reduce RPM. Installed AOD and problem completely disappeared. Never runs hot at highway speed any more. Take it for what it's worth. Good luck.
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#13
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What is AOD?
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#14
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I had a cooling problem that I couldn't figure out. This was a motor that had been rebuilt prior to my ownership. The motor was clean and ran good. It wasn't until a frost plug started leaking that I found the problem. Once I removed the frost plug. I found that the block was full of rusty crud. Whoever rebuilt it, never replaced the frost plugs or cleaned the block.
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#15
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#16
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That's good to know !
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#17
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High Efficiency radiator
The engine is stock .030 overbore with a Ram Air 3 cam. Maybe I will pull the spark plugs and look at them. I don't detect any pinging sounds.
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#18
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What radiator did you purchase from Ames? They carry several brands and models.
Also, what is your water pump pulley to crank pulley ratio. You want to overdrive your WP pulley for better pressure.
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--------------------------- Fool Around, Get Hurt, Don't come Crying to me. |
#19
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I believe the radiator is from US Radiator. It has the original pulleys on the harmonic balancer and water pump.
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#20
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Another thing I dislike about the radiator is the cap orientation, it is not parallel to the radiator like the original. I am going back to my original radiator, because I see no improvement in cooling.
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