[pro-tour79]

I could apologize for steering the pot in the first place but that would make me an apologetic liberal instead of opening eyes to the facts, I'm just tired of seeing more and more complaints and finger pointing and just jump on the internet to voice our complaints and in this casse blame the wrong party instead of finding info on what causes the problem and fixing the problem, I'll stop now !

[BlueGTO]

I find it odd it takes him 14 hours to pull and reinstall a moter so thoes numbers seem a little padded to me, well alot really.I fail to see how you can add up numbers like that owning a car like this as a hobby and your time spend on the car is free. You are saying if you go wax your car for $45.00 time and material included and a bird craps on it it would be another $45.00 out of your pocket.

I have a canton pan on my GTO had it has never leaked a drop.

[PONTIAC DUDE]

Originally Posted by triathlonx13

Canton oil pan p/n = 15-450

Local Engine builder, Mike Felt. Been building a variety of motor makes for 20 or more years.

About the tab holes. I have talked to a few guys that ended up welding them shut ???

Thanks for you comments - any positive suggestions/help is what makes this site a good source of information.

Weld shut? why. As I stated they serve to hold the cork gasket in place........... along with grey silicone. Slots work better then holes. more 'cork meat' lol thru the pan. ;)

[pro-tour79]

Ken, just watch that "cork meat" around the rotating crankshaft cause that could cause a leak :bolt:

[Jagtec1]

I glue the pan gasket to the pan with the "Right Stuff" and let it set up overnight. I use a htin smear of the same sealer on the bottom of the 3 tit rubber seal, and glue it to the pan, making a "dam" in front, and behind of it so it cannot move. Leave it all in place to set up. Next day, I install pan...thin smear of sealer on gasket top, and add some sealer to the rear area. Don't overtorque it! ***I have NO recess in my rear cap! If I had the recess, I would trim fit the cork, and glue it to the CAP before installing pan.

I also use a scraper and Canton windage tray...no leaky.\

HTH.

[tempest455]

I have owned 2 of these pans and never had a leak...........................

Well I take that back, except for when some aluminum rods and parts of the block came through the pan!

:)

I dont think a new gasket was going to fix this!

[stimpy]

[QUOTE=tempest455]I dont think a new gasket was going to fix this![/QUOTE
ah nothing a little duct tape and Jb weld can't fix !!!

[triathlonx13]

Originally Posted by quicksilver97ta

Seems like canton would make this info clear in some instructions or notes with the new pan. :rolleyes: Might have saved you a couple of re-installs and time spent talking to Todd. LOL Hope you get her sealed up and on the road.

Hopefully after the HHP article, my stituation, and probably others. They'll try to put together a intruction sheet and include it in the package.

[triathlonx13]

Originally Posted by tempest455

I have owned 2 of these pans and never had a leak...........................

Well I take that back, except for when some aluminum rods and parts of the block came through the pan!

:)

I dont think a new gasket was going to fix this!

Wow ! That looked like it hurt !!:jaw:

[triathlonx13]

Sure - post some pics.

[triathlonx13]

Just to remind some of you that I posted my pan leak experience under "Pontiac Business Entities Exchange Sources, Compliments and Grievances in regard to Pontiac parts or services rendered by an individual or business."

Hopefully some can find the humor in Pro's and my badgering. He's a good sport. I still think my expectations of the pan manufacturer to enclose instructions or change the the design isn't out of bounds.

I'm going to take Dude's advice and give it another try.

[triathlonx13]

One thing to add. I have done 3 other "stock" pans on my other Ponitacs.... never had one problem - no leaks. This was the first time I ever had used a Canton pan.

[superdutybob]

FTR, The Milodon pan that I use was originally stamped with the three tab style rear flange. Failed miserably on the first attempt. Te seal squirted right out the back and caught on the crank flange and pulled out a 1" long section. Can you say oil leak?

I modified the pan with a Dremel to accept the 5 tab seal. Careful preparation and cure time and now it does not leak a drop.

[Skip Fix]

EVERY aftermarket pan uses this same pan as a core. Milodon(my leak-dropped the pan in the car added liberal gorilla snot and fairly well sealed) Moroso and Canton. They copied it from Pontiac I believe from 71-73 or so. So you can thank Pontiac engineers for that design.

Alos if you even just lay the 3 tit piece on the cap or the pan everyone I have is a hair longer and will not stay on a straight line with the bolt holes lined up, so it has to move and the half round edge lets it creep easily.

I personally convert all my 3 tit pans to 5 tit late model seals with a Dremel. No problems with my current Canton done that way.

Lots of posts here on how to fix the original Pontiac design.

[x-bird2]

Just about finished with a re-do on mine after exactly the same occurrence as with the rubber seal and canton pan as superdutybob described. decided to do the rear main as well since there was so much oil under the car i hated the thought of just doing the pan and finding a main leak was going on at the same time. found a scored main bearing, no damage to the crank, so in this instance, maybe the valdez episode was a good thing. i've got a few rolls of 1/4 inch sheet cork, so after a bit of belt sander time and 3 tries, i came up with a gasket that worked very nicely--though start up tomorrow will tell the rest of the story. one thing i noticed with the rubber seal; with it in place in the pan, there was at least 1/16-in. difference between each side in regards to how far the ends sat above the pan rails. sitting it on the block, it was clear that even after torquing it in place, it would take gobs of sealer at the base of the cap to close it up.

[triathlonx13]

Originally Posted by x-bird2

Just about finished with a re-do on mine after exactly the same occurrence as with the rubber seal and canton pan as superdutybob described. decided to do the rear main as well since there was so much oil under the car i hated the thought of just doing the pan and finding a main leak was going on at the same time. found a scored main bearing, no damage to the crank, so in this instance, maybe the valdez episode was a good thing. i've got a few rolls of 1/4 inch sheet cork, so after a bit of belt sander time and 3 tries, i came up with a gasket that worked very nicely--though start up tomorrow will tell the rest of the story. one thing i noticed with the rubber seal; with it in place in the pan, there was at least 1/16-in. difference between each side in regards to how far the ends sat above the pan rails. sitting it on the block, it was clear that even after torquing it in place, it would take gobs of sealer at the base of the cap to close it up.

Good Luck! I pan re-enforcement brackets and tried a few times to sand cork gaskets before I got it right. I have no leaks yet... so that's good. But there is room for improvent on these pans and instructions (with pictures) should be included since this is a known problem.:usa2:

[x-bird2]

after a 2500 rpm break in run, i put about 30 miles on it today with about 5 different stops. all is well, not a drop coming off anything, and that's with an accusump in it, the AN fittings on which have given me a few seepage fits. Now for the fun part i didn't mention above, silly me forgot to fully seat the convertor the other night and fought it for 3 hours trying to mate the block and trans. next morning, still scratching my head and fighting it, i get the motor wedged on an angle. ( pop it free finally, go to take care of some business and find about 5 quarts of cam2 oil on the floor when i return! i holed the pan on the brake clip bolt on the rear of the subframe crossmember. pulled the engine back out, drained the pan, migged the hole shut and thought about the convertor. hopped in, rotated it, and thunk, in another 3/4 in. or so it went. installing and buttoning up the motor was a breeze after that--until i went to hook up hte battery and found the starter end of the positive cable. that's one heck of a pain to get in with 2-inch supercomps in the way! I must be getting senile, i used to put this thing back together in a day's time. Just glad to see a dry floor underneath it though, made it all worthwhile.

[johnsma22]

When I was in the process of installing my Miloden oil pan I had read the negative press on the 3 tab rubber rear pan seals. I took the cork rear pan seal that came in my gasket set, wrapped it around a soup can and held it in place with a rubber band. I let it set like that overnight to take the shape of the can. Then I cleaned the rear main cap with brake cleaner and glued the cork seal to the cap with contact adhesive. I used a little "Right Stuff" on each end, cemented the rest of the pan gaskets to the pan with contact cement and installed it. A little Loctite on all the bolts and it's been in service for two years without any leaks. I wish I could say the same for my leaking rear main rope seal!!!

[Brian Baker]

I've used the Canton pan, with the 3-tit rubber seal, glued in place with grey Permatex, with a scraper down one side of the pan (if that doesn't pull the rear seal area off concentric, I don't know what will). Never had a leak.

[x-bird2]

Johnsma22 ... "I wish I could say the same for my leaking rear main rope seal!!!"

I installed a DCI graphite rear main rope. i could tell right away that it was much better than the replacement rope seals that have been out since they did away with the asbestos as the ends of the DCI seal were kind of gushy where they'd mate. i've had leakers with the non asbestos rope and the viton seals. i've got a good feeling about this latest one.