The Body Shop TECH General questions that don't fit in any other forum

          
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  #101  
Old 02-12-2013, 08:58 PM
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Greg Reid Greg Reid is offline
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Good philosophy. Now that you mention it, the hood and trunk do concern me a bit as the gun angle is kind of difficult to hold 90 degrees in relation to the surfaces.

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  #102  
Old 02-12-2013, 10:05 PM
65Mark 65Mark is offline
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Greg, do yourself a favor and get the 3M PPS system for your gun. No spilled paint on the car from a vent hole and you can hold the gun in any orientation to paint, as long as you keep it perpendicular to the panel.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CIC2fuUAP4E

You don't have to get the dispensers, just a box of liners and the cups. The cups come two to a box. If they have the bonus pack box of liners it have a cup in it. You will also need the adapter, they run about $12 or so. You'll be happy you got it.

  #103  
Old 02-13-2013, 02:04 PM
beargfr beargfr is offline
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Hi Greg,
I painted mine myself, in my garage, and it was my very first paint job - ever.
My two most valuable reference resources were Kevin Tetz's "Paintucation" videos and asking questions on his forum. You can access both at www.paintucation.com
I think it turned out ok..




This is PPG DBC-9700 black (activated), Southern Polyurethanes Clear, wet sanded (1500, 2000, 3000), cut and buffed (Meguiar's M105 and M205 with a Makita rotary and Meguar's foam pads). If I can can do it, so can you. Just take your time, study, get some old body panels from a wrecking yard or something to practice on until you learn how to lay down that metallic without getting tiger stripes, and go for it.

Bear

  #104  
Old 02-13-2013, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65Mark View Post
Greg, do yourself a favor and get the 3M PPS system for your gun. No spilled paint on the car from a vent hole and you can hold the gun in any orientation to paint, as long as you keep it perpendicular to the panel.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CIC2fuUAP4E

You don't have to get the dispensers, just a box of liners and the cups. The cups come two to a box. If they have the bonus pack box of liners it have a cup in it. You will also need the adapter, they run about $12 or so. You'll be happy you got it.
I've seen those. The plastic cup with my gun says it's 'spill proof'...I dunno as it hasn't stopped raining here long enough for me to try it. I'll certainly look into them. I have a few more people I need to talk to also, to pick their brain and get some advice on it all.

beargfr, that car looks incredible! I've heard and read about the paintucation videos. I've also been hearing and reading about
Southern Polyurethane's products. I'm going to look them over. Again, very, very nice work on your '69!

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  #105  
Old 02-13-2013, 02:27 PM
beargfr beargfr is offline
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The cool thing about the videos is that every time I watched them (and I did so many times), I learned something new. It helps to work on the car awhile, then go review the video that covers what you just did. There are things in there that you won't realize are important until you've got the experience of trying it yourself, then it will make sense. Thanks for the kind words -- I wasn't really looking for praise (although it's much appreciated) -- the point was that I was a 100% newbie. Everything I did on that car that had anything to do with body work and paint was the first time I'd attempted it. The biggest thing is the time investment - there aren't any shortcuts. You've just got to be willing to put the time in and do it right, and when you do make a mistake (I made plenty) you've got to be willing to back up, fix it, and start again.

Bear

  #106  
Old 02-13-2013, 08:33 PM
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Very fine '69, Bear, it looks fantastic.

  #107  
Old 02-13-2013, 11:10 PM
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Steve, I'm still intending to call you one evening to pick your brain a bit. My timing is off.

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  #108  
Old 02-13-2013, 11:14 PM
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Mine too! That's okay, in fact for the next 2 weeks I am swamped from early morning till late night with shop related stuff. Getting ready for a "grand opening" of sorts. If there is any brain left, you're welcome to it!

  #109  
Old 02-13-2013, 11:39 PM
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That's ok Steve. I've got plenty to do to get ready for this anyway and then there's the whole waiting for a good extended weather forcast thing. Probably about mid March I hope.

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  #110  
Old 04-08-2013, 03:00 PM
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Well, I missed my good weather window for a while. Check out the photos below if you want to see how much pollen is floating in the air around here. I washed this car two days ago just as a visual 'pollen gauge' and it has not moved since.


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  #111  
Old 04-08-2013, 03:19 PM
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I see what you mean by 'Pollen Season', wow.

I think it is safe to say that we are all watching you to determine if we will take on a similar task, no pressure, but this is a great thread, and we are all hoping for a great ending.

I read somewhere that it is a good idea to add clear (10 - 15 % ?) to your final coat of base, but I can't remember why? Is this a good idea?

Can't wait to see your results Greg.

  #112  
Old 04-08-2013, 04:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tempest View Post
we are all hoping for a great ending.
Yeah...me too.

Quote:
I read somewhere that it is a good idea to add clear (10 - 15 % ?) to your final coat of base, but I can't remember why? Is this a good idea?
I've never heard that and I have no idea whether it is or not.

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  #113  
Old 04-08-2013, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Reid View Post
Well, I missed my good weather window for a while. Check out the photos below if you want to see how much pollen is floating in the air around here. I washed this car two days ago just as a visual 'pollen gauge' and it has not moved since.
Pine pollen?

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  #114  
Old 04-08-2013, 04:32 PM
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Pine pollen?
Yep....that greenish/yellow stuff is everywhere this time of year down here. Lasts about4~6 weeks generally. As a gust of wind popped up yesterday I just reflexively glanced up and I could see huge clouds of the stuff blowing out of the pines.

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  #115  
Old 04-08-2013, 05:31 PM
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Tempest: I would not add urethane clear to any basecoat as they generally need hardener to react with to properly cure. I always add about 5-10% urethane hardener to base colors as it greatly improves chip resistance and helps prevent lifting if any future repairs are needed. Most manufacturers will suggest this option for their basecoats and provide a ratio. Some basecoats require a hardener.

  #116  
Old 04-08-2013, 08:22 PM
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OK, Thanks Paint Guy. I will forget that idea. Sorry for any confusion.

  #117  
Old 04-08-2013, 08:53 PM
Bob Scott Bob Scott is offline
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Kirker brand paint, if you read the product description [pivco.net} they say you can add clear in the final coat with their basecoat or single stage urethane. Their basecoat is the same as their SS with a basecoat converter added so it uses a hardener in the base, the same hardener as their clear. I haven't tried it yet but I think I might next time I use Kirker.

  #118  
Old 05-17-2013, 05:13 PM
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Just to update, my driveway paint job plans are in flux. I've been offered the use of a booth from a friend of mine who has a resto business. It's only about 25 miles away. He's even giving me my choice as to whether I want to paint it myself in there or get his guys to spray it for me.
Kind of hard to turn that down. I just have to fit it into his schedule since he's running a business... This is a good offer because I'm having some issues with making my paint booth out of Saran Wrap and Popsicle sticks...
SO....I think I'm gonna do that. I'll update again when I get it down there.

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  #119  
Old 05-17-2013, 05:35 PM
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My 2 cents, I'd use the booth and shoot it myself, and see if one of the guys can coach you through it.

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  #120  
Old 05-17-2013, 07:38 PM
65Mark 65Mark is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by webfoot View Post
My 2 cents, I'd use the booth and shoot it myself, and see if one of the guys can coach you through it.

What he said!

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