[HWYSTR455]

You can use wet sandpaper.

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[Verdoro 68]

Thanks, I'll keep at it. It's such a fine line between just enough and too much here. I'm surprised at the amount of massaging. I'll try wet sanding. To be honest, I kind of expected the seal to drop right in, but I suppose nothing really drops in.

[HWYSTR455]

I think it's good that it doesn't drop right in, too many variables for that to work. They are finicky. Work at it, get it right, much better than having to fix it. (after it's in the car running)

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[Verdoro 68]

The wet sanding worked great. It took about 10 times in and out of the rear main cap, but I got it sitting as even as I could without a gap or a pucker. I'm planning on doing the "tip test" before I drop it in the car, but I'm wondering if I could test the seal before I put the rest of the bottom end together. Put the pan on with the BOP seal, load it up with a few quarts of oil and lean the engine back while it's on the stand to see if it's going to leak.

I cleaned the bearings and journals front and back one last time and used Lucas assembly lube on all the mains. That stuff is even stickier than the Comp assembly lube! I loaded the rear main seal crank surface with high temp grease as well. All said and done I feel good about where the crank and seal is at, so I took a big step and put the crank in for (hopefully) the last time with some help from my son.

After that, I regapped the rings to .023, clocked them according to the Total Seal instructions and installed piston/rod assemblies for 1&2. The fixed size tapered ring compressor works great. Lucas assembly oil on the rod bearings again, ARP lube on the rod bolts torqued to 63 ft/lbs.

I'm at about .030 total rod side clearance, which seems very generous, but maybe not uncommon for BBC rods. So far everything spinning nice and smooth.

[HWYSTR455]

Nice!

I haven't tried the Lucas assembly lube, but have tried, and compared a handful of others. I posted a few years ago of all the ones I compared, lots of different thoughts on assembly lube out. Basically, the 'carrier' is benign, and the 'wipe-off' theory has very little science behind it.

Some like the 'tried & true' grey moly stuff, but that stuff does cause oil filters to clog in fairly short time. The newer type assembly lubes are better, they last longer, and much less chance of effecting oil filter flow.

No matter, after initial startup & break in, the oil & filter should be changed. The whole driving around for 500 miles (or whatever number of miles) is not a good idea. And after that initial startup & break in, inspecting the oil filter makes good sense.

Lots of 'theories' out there on rod side clearances too. Even I had some thoughts regarding that were not accurate, until I did the homework. With full floating rods, there is even less negative impact to wider clearances. And 'negative' impacts should be taken lightly. I.E., there is very little impact(s), especially on lower RPM operating engines.


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[nmoreilly]

Cool build and I like that you decided to go with more cam ‼️😎

[Skip Fix]

I'm betting with RAII heads with their D port sized intake ports and round exhaust ports your exhaust/intake flow ratio is going to be high and could influence cam choices.

[Verdoro 68]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Nice!

I haven't tried the Lucas assembly lube, but have tried, and compared a handful of others. I posted a few years ago of all the ones I compared, lots of different thoughts on assembly lube out. Basically, the 'carrier' is benign, and the 'wipe-off' theory has very little science behind it.

Some like the 'tried & true' grey moly stuff, but that stuff does cause oil filters to clog in fairly short time. The newer type assembly lubes are better, they last longer, and much less chance of effecting oil filter flow.

I would be curious to read more about assembly lubes. Although I'm sure the science has evolved, tend to trust the old grey moly stuff more because it stays put. I was also wondering if I should be using different lubes for different parts - or if it mattered at all. I kind of figure a lot of it will wash away when I prelube the engine anyway.

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

With full floating rods, there is even less negative impact to wider clearances. And 'negative' impacts should be taken lightly. I.E., there is very little impact(s), especially on lower RPM operating engines.

After I got those two rods set up last night I did a little reading and felt better about the clearance. Seems wider is better in terms of cooling the bearings and floating set ups are known to have more rod clearance by nature. Reminded me of the ring gap discussion where you think it should be tight, but there's actually a benefit to being a little loose.

Originally Posted by Skip Fix

I'm betting with RAII heads with their D port sized intake ports and round exhaust ports your exhaust/intake flow ratio is going to be high and could influence cam choices.

They are definitely odd ball heads in that regard. For a while I wondered if I'd want a more intake/exhaust duration since they flow so much better on the exhaust side but it never seemed to be a consideration when I talked to Butler, and earlier on, Kauffmann. We'll see how this 236/242 does.

[grandam1979]

My buddy’s pure stock ram air ll car will mph at 113-115 with zero port work on heads. I know Mino went 117mph+with his car. Ken what gear do you have in the gto?

[Verdoro 68]

Originally Posted by grandam1979

My buddy’s pure stock ram air ll car will mph at 113-115 with zero port work on heads. I know Mino went 117mph+with his car. Ken what gear do you have in the gto?

3.55 gear via TH400.

[grandam1979]

That should work good with the 464. If it was a 400 bottom end would be little slow. Make sure the intake you use is matched to the heads and it will be a great runner. Your biggest problem is going to be tire spin. What do you have for a converter?

[Verdoro 68]

Two options for a converter: the 13” Continental I’ve been running for years or a mystery 12” provided by my trans builder that is intended to stall around 2500. With this bigger cam, I suspect a new converter will be in my future but we’ll see.

Intake is a repro RAIV that I’ll be gasket matching. I already modded the carb base. It may be a weak link in terms of flow in this set up. A good old iron intake might be a better choice but doesn’t look as cool.

[grandam1979]

Just with that bigger cam a stock converter is going to push the car at idle but sounds like you have what you need. I know in my area trans shops won’t warranty a trans job without a new converter.

[Verdoro 68]

The warranty is exactly why he provided that 12”.

[grandam1979]

You can always change it after warranty runs out. Are you going to make a/c work?

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by Verdoro 68

Two options for a converter: the 13” Continental I’ve been running for years or a mystery 12” provided by my trans builder that is intended to stall around 2500. With this bigger cam, I suspect a new converter will be in my future but we’ll see.

Intake is a repro RAIV that I’ll be gasket matching. I already modded the carb base. It may be a weak link in terms of flow in this set up. A good old iron intake might be a better choice but doesn’t look as cool.

I can say for certain, at power levels of around 400hp, the repop aluminum intakes don't hurt anything over the iron pieces. I've tested them back to back on my mild setup. No change what so ever.
I thought maybe on something with more power you might start to see something, but as I've mentioned in other posts the 455 I built made 507hp with a stock 72 455HO intake, which is the same thing. So they still support some HP. Maybe the iron might help that one a bit but it already made the numbers we were looking for.

On your converter, your choice what you want to try but that 236 cam way out on a 114 LSA is going to idle pretty smooth anyway if installed correctly, and won't be much of an issue with idle or low speed drivability in a 455. But I'd certainly give one or both of those converters you have a shot before spending $700-$1000 on a custom unit. The converter is easy to swap out anyway.
For sure a new custom piece will perform better for all out performance or some track fun, just depends on what you want.

[Verdoro 68]

Originally Posted by grandam1979

You can always change it after warranty runs out. Are you going to make a/c work?

Yep, working a/c is in the plans. System was working before I pulled everything apart but the compressor needed a new front seal.

[Skip Fix]

Originally Posted by Verdoro 68

I would be curious to read more about assembly lubes. Although I'm sure the science has evolved, tend to trust the old grey moly stuff more because it stays put. I was also wondering if I should be using different lubes for different parts - or if it mattered at all. I kind of figure a lot of it will wash away when I prelube the engine anyway.



After I got those two rods set up last night I did a little reading and felt better about the clearance. Seems wider is better in terms of cooling the bearings and floating set ups are known to have more rod clearance by nature. Reminded me of the ring gap discussion where you think it should be tight, but there's actually a benefit to being a little loose.



They are definitely odd ball heads in that regard. For a while I wondered if I'd want a more intake/exhaust duration since they flow so much better on the exhaust side but it never seemed to be a consideration when I talked to Butler, and earlier on, Kauffmann. We'll see how this 236/242 does.

The RAIV Super Stock racers use a single pattern cam and their intake flow is better due to a better intake port. My RAIV has the flip of your cam. Not sure what Scott Burton in his RAIV Stocker uses.

[Verdoro 68]

Looking into assembly lubes - has anyone tried Joe Gibbs assembly gel? Seems to offer the best of both worlds being a modern formula that stays put.

https://drivenracingoil.com/i-304978...oz-packet.html

https://youtu.be/aU-3mJq7DR0

[25stevem]

You can’t just look at the exh to intake ratio, the level of cylinder pressure the motor will make and how fast from BDC the piston gets to its fastest acceleration point are all factors.

Low compression motors leave far more unused gasses ( think of heat that can no longer be used to drive the piston ) in the cylinder at the time the exh valve opens and this added amount of unused gas requires more time to get out of the motor.

This is one of the main reasons that even though low compression motors make less power then a similar high compression motor, they tend to run hotter.