[HWYSTR455]

Yeah, I honestly can't remember the orientation of the lines/ports on the 2nd gen F-bodies, I ditched mine years ago for an adjustable. If you looked at the factory service manual, and it's clear which goes where, then obviously you're good with that.

On the rear adjustment, crank those things out there until you feel resistence in the adjuster, like with it applying brakes. This is just for troubleshooting to see if the pedal changes. If it does make a diff, you know where the problem may lay.

Pushrod measurement, well, may sound cheesy, but I used a paperclip bent from the flange to the cup, then measured the paperclip. Worked for me. If there's an issue with the pedal as you're talking about, it's going to be obvious. I kinda don't think that's it, because you say there's no 'loose' or 'free' travel of the pedal. You can take the MC cover off, and as you depress the pedal, you should see fluid movement, can try that as a general indicator.

Power/pressure bleed is the best, period. If you've got a rig for it, that's the way to go. Same thing, start at the furthest wheel, and make sure the tank is full.

Warning switch, that will tell you if the prop is boogered, in most cases. If it's a bias rod problem, the light will come on.

On the pedal, in the car, the upper hole is for manual brakes, the lower for power, or that's how I remember it. Wouldn't hurt to try a different one I guess. For a manual setup, using the power hole will make the pedal hard.

Hm, a bad booster causing a low pedal, not sure on that one. I know when there's no/low assist, due to a bad booster, the pedal is hard. Someone once told me that when you have your foot lightly on the pedal, and you start the car, the pedal should slowly go down, which indicates a good booster, but don't know how true that is. Do you have the original factory booster still? Might be able to try it. If you bought the booster from DSE, they should be troubleshooting it with you. Call them.