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#18
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Quote:
On the castle nuts on suspension and steering, as well as other natural hardware, use the semi-gloss clear after torque so they don't rust. I also hit ARP head studs/nuts/bolts after torque, they too can flash rust. Wiper motor bolts, anodized oil pans, etc. No primer, I've found that the engine paint doesn't 'bite' as well and can flake on primer. I just make sure it's clean, wipe with acetone, and the typical 3 coats as directed of the engine paint. Lasts forever, and easily can touch it up. I blends well too, you don't have to shoot a whole part or area, just the areas you need. My one old timer body guys says : 'Yeah, that stuff will stick to anything'. I did the aerosol truck bedliner too, underside, wheel wells, inside of bumper, it lasts a ling time and doesn't get eaten up by rock shots. EDIT: After the engine paint cures well, you can polish and wax it. .
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. 1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624 1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be |
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