[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by 78w72

a cromo 3" 'shaft with 1350 forged yokes is not anywhere near $350 or even $400-500 from what i have seen, cheapest i found is strange at $600+ shipped, other places like dennys & even local were as much or more. this is for a 3" cromo shaft with th400 forged 1350 ends for a 2nd gen firebird, maybe much shorter ones are a little cheaper but not seeing anything close to $350... got a link to a company that makes a fully forged 1350 shaft & yoke for $350 or even $450 HWYSTR?

pretty sure factory shafts & yokes vary in strength based on the engine & vehicle, i doubt a late 70's or early 80s firebird with a 301 or 305 making all of 150 hp uses the same rated shaft as a early to mid 70's 400/455 or other makes with 454s & 460s etc etc. saying ALL stock driveshafts are rated for no more 350 ft lbs cant be true, when a stock early 70's 455 had 450+ or close to 500lb/ft. GM or any company would never put a 350lb/ft rated shaft behind a 455 or other big torque engines.

i fully agree a beefier shaft & yoke is best for cars making bigger power or that are raced, im not suggesting anyone at that power level or purpose use a stock shaft, although countless people have for decades with very low failure rates. heck it took ta man getting into the 10's & probably decades of serious abuse to break his stock one at the yoke & mine is doing ok after just as much abuse behind numerous torquey engines & now knockin on 10's door... but i realize thats pushing it even with the new 3" .083 shaft & solid u-joints but stock yoke i have, i will be buying a strange forged 1350 asap at my current power level & i should have done that right off the bat but that doesnt always happen when youre doing a full resto & engine build, you tend to cut corners on some things.

i still feel a cromo forged 1350 is not needed for the average guy on the street with a mild (at or below 400lb/ft or 350-400hp), they do make other options like nodular iron yokes that are much stronger than stock cast iron, pair that with a .083 3" non cromo shaft & solid u-joints & it will live behind a mild 400 or 455 on the street at half the price of fully forged. just mentioning some options when youre not a racer making 500+hp & 600lb/ft of torque.

https://www.strangeengineering.net/p...range-hd.html/

Sure, here's a 3.5" strange chrome moly with ends and U-joints for $465:

https://www.strangeengineering.net/p...iveshaft.html/

Your link goes to a slip yoke, and it's $85 for a nodular iron, which is plenty strong for the 'street' section.

You get the mack-daddy forged items of course it's more. You go to a big-name supplier, of course it's more. You go to a local driveline shop and it's a solid 25% or more off.

Why try to bloat it? To prove a point? Again, all I'm doing is providing my opinion, take it or leave it. No need to attack me.

My last driveshaft, 3.5" CM shaft, ends, balanced, was $285 at a local shop. I sourced my own joints and slip. Done.

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