[TRADERMIKE 2012]

THINGS THAT MAY MAKE A DIFFERENCE!

(1) Add Water Wetter to the Block with Antifreeze and Distilled Water. This product keeps the Cylinder walls liquid solutions mentioned above from collecting. Keeps Damaging air bubbles from adhering to cylinder walls causing the area to be slippery from air to let heat transfer, cavitation free, hence makes the water Wetter. Read the label I use it.

(2) Move the Cam Timing from 109-109.5 BTDC, back to the Factory Specs. of 113.5 BTDC.

(3) Continue to burn Rec. 89-90 Alcohol free Unleaded. Once I solve this problem, I will try 93 Octane Unleaded Fuel with 10% Alcohol to gain the higher burn quality, that is if it does not Vapor lock, as it has in the past. The worst-case scenario is that I go back to using Rec.89-90 Unleaded Fuel without the Alcohol in it. Alcohol in gas will burn or bubble up earlier than unleaded gas causing Vapor lock that can stall an Engine while you're driving, not good, especially if you don't have power steering.

(4) The last resort is to recurve the Distributor, as suggested by one and unsupported by another.

(5) Prove, by using the Degree Wheel and Dial Indicator, what the current Advance BTDC actually is! Because there is a discrepancy in the directions, according to Forum members, to whether or not the directions mean 4* @ the Cam is actually 8* @ the Cam and 8* @ the Crank means 16* @ the Crank. This discrepancy could mean that I am not advanced to 109-109.5 BTDC at all, I could be at 104-105 BTDC. Continued driving using the wrong setting is both dangerous to the Engine and could be why I am experiencing an increase in Temperature, causing Piston/Rod Knock and a major Heat issue associated with Rod/Piston Rattling. I have been calling this advanced Detonation: Heat soak by mistake. Even though the Cam Timing, in my case, is possibly too advanced, the symptoms sound the same as Ignition Timing. It is as if you were to turn the Distributor too far advanced, when you rotate the entire Dist. too far in one direction and forget to pull it back some while tuning your Engine. Pre-Detonation sound occurs and you can hear its nasty sound that causes the Aluminum from the Pistons to flake off and melt to the Spark plugs inner electrode porcelain area. You should inspect this area as I will soon. The trick that I read is to turn the Ignition Timing at the Distributor until you slightly hear this sound as the increase in RPM stops rising and then move the Distributor back in the opposite direction some and then lock down the Dist. bolt to the Blocks flat flange area, on a tune-up.