[HWYSTR455]

If I'm not mistaken, believe the captured nut in the cowl box actually has some play of the nut inside the captured cage.

I had the inner fender well out when I last did mine, and used a pry bar against the nut to help support the cage when torquing. It sux when the cage breaks.

I forget the value, but recall those bolts have a fairly high torque spec.

It's def not 'best practice' to jack the front up by the sway bar. Not only is there potential of bending the bar, but also the potential of stripping out the threads on the bar to frame mount.

With big tires or good grip, under heavy driving, that whole front clip flexes. A lot. Watch the hood gaps as you brake and go into a turn, and you will see what I mean.

It's kind of a snowball thing ones you start stiffening everything up, one fix exposes another weak link, etc.

In my case, and this may have something to do that I used the short bushings, once I put the cowl braces on, I would crack windshields. This mainly happened when I was 'walking' in & out of parking lot ramps at an angle, bc my car is very low. My only solution was at min a 4-point roll bar.

Tying in the front & rear frame horns help a lot too, there's a front brace that's available that goes between the frame and the swaybar. In the back, you can go stealth and reinforce the bumper, or make a brace that goes in trunk between the bumper mounts on the tail panel.

Tying in the frame rails may provide enough twist resistance to where you wouldn't need a 4-point, not sure bc I put a 4-point in already.

Morning brain-dump, rambling...

EDIT: Final note, the twisting can cause 1/4 panels to bend and get wavy, between the door/roof/rear wheel opening. You can see it on some cars.



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