[Goatman]

Roar, not 100% sure on which right now. I think it was 5 and maybe 6, but not 100% on that. I believe it was one piston on each side of the block. I will check.

ST, The pump was used last year and was fine. The scoring in the base plate and gears could have also been caused by your distributor and/or oil pump drive rod being too long, thusly putting downward force onto the gears, driving them into the bottom plate. I haven't taken my pump apart yet, so I can't honestly say. But I know the distributor/rod issue was addressed when the motor first went together. Nothing should have changed there.

[Robert Williams]

Goatman and STripieduce, are you guys using the MSD distributor? Awhile back some guys were having the same problems. Turned out that the shaft in the MSD dis was too long. This put the the oil pump driveshaft, pump gears, and oil pump plate into a preloaded condition quickly wearing out the bottom plate. Check HPP August 2000 page #10 Titled, THERE'S METAL IN MY OIL! If anyone wants a copy send an e-mail and i will mail you one. With the dis, driveshaft, and pump installed you should have .030 to .040 endplay in the shaft ( up and down ) with it all in place.

[PHILLYGOAT]

The MSD distributor was what caused my first loss of oil pressure on my 490. Bottom plate of oil pump was scored quite badly. I lost every bearing in the engine.When reassembled we found the distibutor sitting about .050" above the block. Didn't notice it the first time around and just tightened it up. Ouch.
Phil

[Goatman]

Originally posted by Goatman:
But I know the distributor/rod issue was addressed when the motor first went together. Nothing should have changed there.

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">That's what I was referring to. That letter in HPP came out when that motor first went together and I had it checked immediately. There was a length problem that was fixed by milling the drive rod and using two distributor gaskets.

[STripleduce]

Mallory 7000 optical trigger, just cheked it plenty of play.Still think the metal in a new pump is an issue though.I don't like the idea that you buy a brandnew punp and have to go through it because of quality control issues at the plant.What if I had assumed that the pump was OK because it was new,what would have happened to all that metal in the bypass????????????????Inquiring minds want to know...

[Goatman]

I think Pdude said it best: "You're SOL." That was what the oil pump company told him when he asked. Its NOT right.

I suppose that if there were enough documented instances where we could prove beyond a doubt that the oil pumps were causing failures from defective/shody workmanship, we could file a class action lawsuit against them. But, that would be hard to prove indeed.

[Rick Lightfoot]

Again, for the record Mr. Lopes, who built your engine?

[Ponti]

...it sounds to me the Old DICKster from I.A. screwed up the engine ROYALY...and now Goatman is back-pedaling very quickly to help protect his little friend/engine builder who seeks business from this board!!!!

Regards, Mike

[Ponti]

...Just be honest dude...we all know what obviously happened!

I'd want a refund or have the motor work warrantied and post this topic on PY's Pontiac Better Business Bureau instead!

[Roar]

Been thinking a little here.Is it full floating wrist pins in the pistons ?
Hope you understand my ?
Try to move the pistons on the rods and see if they move freely.
..............
I have seen engines before that this have happend to, that is caused by the wrist pins. And usually the bore will be Ok. What you see on the cylinder walls is actually metall from the pistons. In some cases one can just remove that, and the cylinder wall is good as new.But not sure in this case.

[ July 22, 2002, 07:45 AM: Message edited by: Roar ]

[Rick Lightfoot]

Originally posted by Ponti:
...it sounds to me the Old DICKster from I.A. screwed up the engine ROYALY...and now Goatman is back-pedaling very quickly to help protect his little friend/engine builder who seeks business from this board!!!!

Regards, Mike

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Is this true that Mr. Duclow from IA did the assembly of your engine Mr. Lopes??

[Half-Inch Stud]

I had a lengthy message but got a "not allowed to tag an HTML user code with reply" error message...makes me go hmmmm.

I was saying:

Goatman, Still sorry for you about your engine wear. I do not see it as an engine failure.

Please report back on the cause of the 7PSI oil pressure. An electric drill with screwdriver blade will drive the pump. Perhaps you lost the rear galley plug?..Please report on the cause of dramatic oil pressure loss.

Seems you can check #5 rod for roundness, repop that rodbearing, and strap clean the crank journal...not much runtime on that 'bad journal' so the damage is likely bearing material on top the journal. Did the #5 rod bearing spin ?????please report..

Please lower your standard on the CYL scuffing visual. The motor is still "breaking-in". The compression test only get better with time.

Sounds to me that you can be back up & running with little added money.
----------------------------------------------
----------------------------------------------
Just finished the Bottom-end assembly on my USED YK428/103N 455crank/L2359.030TRW-TotalSeal-SDRods/4-bolt capped engine/reinspected oilpump.

Anybody from this board sitting next to me would see 2 455 cranks showing fine wear patterns, no cylinder scuffing, old rod bearings with coating in place, except the uppers from one motor show coating wear on the power stroke. Old Mains show debris scoreing on the lowers, but not bad, and definitely reuseable. Both Rear mains appear nearly new. Worst bearings were the 1,2,3 uppers on one motor. (I filed all the old bearing edges and ground oil feeds into the leading edges of the lower shells.) Old bearings will be part of 'best pickins' for the other shortblock...(damn I'm cheap).

New items: BOP rear seal, .010 Fm Main bearings(edges filed, Ground oil feeds into lower shells) .010 Fm Rod bearings (edges filed).

The factory bolts torqued beautifully. I could feel all the bolts stretch while reaching their settings of 120, 100, and 63ft-Lbs. I use SBC Mainbolts, SDrodnuts&bolts, and "M" balancer bolt.

Factory headbolts have hard washers for good measure....Grade 8 six slashes ya know...when you gots several hunderd engine bolts, there's a few good ones.

Turning torque: < 5ft-Lbs crank&Block&rearseal.
35-40ft-Lbs with 8 dry pistons&cylinders.

Maple Grove is possible, but Still need a cam to come through. I'm waiting for a response from Lunati. Thanks to several who have offered Ram III and Ram IV cams. Stand by...

Note: In context with other messages: I have 2 timing covers with Aluminum waterpumps, with factory bolts(wirewheeled). I tried Stainless 5/16 bolts before but was riddled with detorquing issues. The factory bolts have been maintenance free and look great.

H.I. Stud

[Scott Misus]

Originally posted by Half-Inch Stud:
The factory bolts torqued beautifully. I could feel all the bolts stretch while reaching their settings of 120, 100, and 63ft-Lbs. I use SBC Mainbolts, SDrodnuts&bolts, and "M" balancer bolt.

Factory headbolts have hard washers for good measure....Grade 8 six slashes ya know...when you gots several hunderd engine bolts, there's a few good ones.

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Just don't go racing with that motor. It'd then be a "race" car. Everyone knows that you simply CANNOT use factory bolts in a "race" car.


[ July 22, 2002, 12:40 PM: Message edited by: Scott Misus ]

[Half-Inch Stud]

5200 upshifts and 4850 traps, not a problem. The factory 12-Bolt C-Clip axles are going to be the first to let go during the 60Foot.

Looking toward Maple Grove this weekend.

H.I. Stud

[Rick Lightfoot]

But, they didn't chrome plate the factory bolts... LMAO!!!

[Rick Lightfoot]

Originally posted by Goatman:


And just as I thought, the rest of the clowns are now silent after I laid down a little wisdom at their feet.........................

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Must be your own wisdom has made you silent, clown.

[Hot Rod]

H.I.
Are we going to have to go tire chasing with those C-clips? Is that some kind of new sport like Cow tipping, Snipe Hunting, and Scott Misus's personal favorite Bobbing for Road apples.
LOL!!!!!
Man you must love living on the edge, when one of those breaks at a the least a tire, and possible body damage and how about when the slick when it hits the rear quarter that would suck or worse yet it takes off and lands in George's lap at the Grove!

Rodney

[Goatman]

HIS, firstly, I appologize for my earlier comments......I should be up and running next year. Traded my 455 block with caps and bore brace for a standard bore 400 block with splayed main caps. Traded my other 455 short block for a 3" main stroker crank. Will look at the rods closely and mag and check for straightness. Need new bearings, pistons, and rings, and that's about it. So, it seems I'll come up about the same. Less CI, less friction, anyone care to guess the difference offset in HP?

You are correct in that the crank isn't as bad as I thought and should be fixed by next week. I need a buyer. Oil pump is waiting for its autopsy, but a tux fitting tomorrow night and birthday plans for a best friend preclude such frivolities untill Saturday or Sunday. I'm not keen on performing surgery on the oil filter, as it seems to be mute at this point. Hope I find that timing cover piece somewhere, as it still perplexes me.

Not saying it will run 12's , but it should be alright for embarrasing plenty of folks just to see me make a pass, while they're still spectating.

[Rick Lightfoot]

Originally posted by Gloatman:


Not saying it will run 12's...

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">No Bruce, try 13's. [img]tongue.gif[/img]

[Goatman]

Maybe with the throttle half open.........no, that's right, at E-town last year, I went 12's with the throttle only opening half way. Child's play, boy.

Some wish they had that problem. Jealousy will get you no where Lil' Ricky..............