#21  
Old 01-21-2009, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Jagtec1 View Post
I run a factory 455 crank cut down to 3", in a 400 block. 455CI trapping at 6400. Has gone 9's. I will be pulling it apart this winter (only because it will be freshened and sold, had no issues, and good oil pressure) and will report on findings.
What did you find out.




Thanks Mark

  #22  
Old 01-21-2009, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Polar-Pontiac View Post
What did you find out.




Thanks Mark

I found out it's too stinkin' cold to go out to the garage yet. Or maybe I am too lazy this year! I am not racing next year, so there is no rush...If I were, my new motor would already be done. I hope to get it torn down within the next month. I expect I may see some fretting on the #2 cap...maybe not.

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  #23  
Old 01-23-2009, 10:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BILTIT View Post
I believe all 3.25'' cranks were cross drilled, all 3'' were not.
Is this true?

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  #24  
Old 01-24-2009, 09:36 AM
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Good information. The "weak" link here when going to 3" mains is the construction of the crankshaft. We've seen enough cast steel Eagle cranks fail to avoid them in 3" or 3.25" mains. One of our customers in particular, broke one in 4 peices at 730hp, and another one in two peices about a year later. He finally went to forgings, no more troubles. One of the cast steel cranks was raced for two seasons, nearly every weekend, in the high 9's/low 10's, then, without warning it gave up, windowed the block and oiled down the entire top end of the track. About a year later, the back-up engine did the same thing.

The 3" main cast steel cranks have their limitations, as we've seen them in 500hp engines last for many years without problems.

FWIW, with the forgings currently available, I wouldn't even look at a cast crank at any power level.

As far as rpm potential, I don't see the larger main 3.25" journals as a big trouble area here. If you are building from scratch, you should be looking at 3" main blocks. Easier to obtain, and plenty of good cranks readily available in just about any stroke you would want to set them up with.....Cliff

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  #25  
Old 01-24-2009, 10:44 AM
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Cross drilling is not necessarily a good thing. Most crankshafts from Moldex are not cross-drilled. The best cranks in my opinion are center drilled cranks like the race 303 Pontiac crank was. Ford's best cranks are center drilled presently.

Tom Vaught

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  #26  
Old 01-24-2009, 12:09 PM
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That's good info Cliff & Tom ....Thanks

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Old 01-25-2009, 03:30 AM
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Tom V- I haven't seen "center drilled" cranks. Can you please post a sketch or picture?

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Old 01-25-2009, 07:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pontiac jack View Post
Tom V- I haven't seen "center drilled" cranks. Can you please post a sketch or picture?
Jack I would like to see that also.

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Old 01-26-2009, 03:53 PM
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I think this is a centre oil crank. Maybe Tom could chime it.


Last edited by Polar-Pontiac; 04-09-2010 at 06:48 PM.
  #30  
Old 01-26-2009, 09:52 PM
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535 here with AP/Scat Ultra Light 4.5 forged crank, BME Alum 396 series 6.7 rods, BRC Custom Pistons, At first i will probably leave it under 6500 But After a while I'll Probably put in a Big Roller and Springs then stick it to the wood to see what 8000+rpm Sounds Like! YeeHaw!

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  #31  
Old 01-26-2009, 10:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 440GP69 View Post
535 here with AP/Scat Ultra Light 4.5 forged crank, BME Alum 396 series 6.7 rods, BRC Custom Pistons, At first i will probably leave it under 6500 But After a while I'll Probably put in a Big Roller and Springs then stick it to the wood to see what 8000+rpm Sounds Like! YeeHaw!
You know you need help, don`t you?

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Old 01-26-2009, 10:34 PM
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LOL Yes I do!!!

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  #33  
Old 01-29-2009, 11:08 AM
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Well. Wifes new motor will see 8400.

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  #34  
Old 02-19-2009, 02:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cliff R View Post
If you are building from scratch, you should be looking at 3" main blocks. Easier to obtain, and plenty of good cranks readily available in just about any stroke you would want to set them up with.....Cliff
Hmmm . . .

Since I just discovered that my (former) machine shop misinformed me when it told me my 1973 455 block had to go .040 over, and now it turns out I must go .060 over, but I already have .040 over pistons (that I ordered after relying upon my -former- machine shop, groan) . . . .

Can a 400 block go to a 455 .040 over?

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  #35  
Old 02-19-2009, 02:35 PM
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4.19" ??? I guess that is .070 over, so I will have to go find another 455 block or get new pistons. Oh, well. It was an idea.

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