[b-man]

Originally Posted by andrewb70

Sexy!

What hubs are you going with?

Andrew

Andrew,

I'm going back and forth between stock C6 hubs made by Timken ($175 each) and the SKF racing hubs ($380 each) http://www.pfadtracing.com/catalog/p...roducts_id/125 .

Will the stock replacement parts wear out quickly if I engage in a little spirited weekend canyon carving from time to time?

Am I better off buying the racing parts in the first place because I'll eventually need them anyway, after the stockers fail after a fairly short amount of time?

Your opinion would be greatly appreciated on any pros and cons of either choice.

Thanks, Bart

[andrewb70]

Originally Posted by b-man

Andrew,

I'm going back and forth between stock C6 hubs made by Timken ($175 each) and the SKF racing hubs ($380 each) http://www.pfadtracing.com/catalog/p...roducts_id/125 .

Will the stock replacement parts wear out quickly if I engage in a little spirited weekend canyon carving from time to time?

Am I better off buying the racing parts in the first place because I'll eventually need them anyway, after the stockers fail after a fairly short amount of time?

Your opinion would be greatly appreciated on any pros and cons of either choice.

Thanks, Bart

Bart,

Thats a tough call. I went with the race hubs. Part of the reason was that the stock C5 hubs were not available. However the other part was because I felt my GTO could use the extra durability due to the extra weight as compared to a C5/C6. From what I understand the stock hubs have been known to fail from a single track day with street tires. The race hubs last a whole season on race cars with slicks. If it is in your budget, I don't know that you will go wrong with the race hubs. Just my opinion :-)

Andrew

[b-man]

.....so I unpacked them to check for any missing parts or shipping damage.

Not so much as a scratch on any of these beauties. Clearly Tobin at KORE3 knows how to package his parts just as well as he knows his braking systems.

I decided to upgrade my brake package with some DBA (Disc Brakes Australia) 4000 slotted rotors and Hawk ceramic brake pads. Front rotors measure 355mm X 32mm (14.0" X 1.25") and the rears are 340mm X 26mm (13.4" X 1.00"). I'll have plenty of braking power to stop this train once it gets a-rollin'.

[marauder]

So much for the sleeper look with those calipers showing through the open wheels!

[b-man]

Originally Posted by marauder

So much for the sleeper look with those calipers showing through the open wheels!

Well, sometimes one must make a few sacrifices to better the overall package. Not much of a sacrifice at all of course, this pup needs to stop as well as it goes to be even the least bit fun or safe to drive hard.

Still going to end up looking pretty tame overall with the somewhat boxy-looking white 2-door coupe body with the aqua bench seat interior and stock chrome column shifter.

Besides, this is the all that most of my fellow motorists will get to see much of anyway:

[andrewb70]

Originally Posted by b-man

.....so I unpacked them to check for any missing parts or shipping damage.

Not so much as a scratch on any of these beauties. Clearly Tobin at KORE3 knows how to package his parts just as well as he knows his braking systems.

I decided to upgrade my brake package with some DBA (Disc Brakes Australia) 4000 slotted rotors and Hawk ceramic brake pads. Front rotors measure 355mm X 32mm (14.0" X 1.25") and the rears are 340mm X 26mm (13.4" X 1.00"). I'll have plenty of braking power to stop this train once it gets a-rollin'.

Bart,

You will be very happy with that brake package. I am really thinking about doing my rears this spring. I suggest going with a manual MC. You can get a 15/16" bore MC with a rod for about $30. 1977 Chevrolet Malibu v6 w/manual brakes. If you want some bling and don't mind spending over $200, the Wilwood 7/8" bore MC will work as well. For me $30>bling.

Important tip: Don't use brake cleaner on the rotors. It will remove the dark gray coating in the center "hat" area of the rotors. Use mild soap and water and dry with compressed air.

Important tip #2: Double check the clearance between the rotor and the three "points" of the hub assembly. I had to use an angle grinder on the hubs to add clearance for the rotors.

I also prefer to flip the rotors left to right compared to the labels. This is not a problem since the rotors have straight vanes. I flip them because I have experiences some brake squeal when the rotors are installed with the slots as labeled. Flipping them took care of the squealing. I've seen race cars have slots in either direction, so I am not sure that it matters much.

Andrew