[goatcheese]

Well, I pulled the intake and a head off today and what did I see?? A felpro 8518pt looking at me... I can't believe they haven't had their door knocked down because of the their claim that this gasket works for a 326 or 350. Whoever built this engine put some money and work into it. The intake ports have been very nicely matched to the edelbrock performer intake. Even the throttle cable bracket is very fancy and heavy duty. I'm gonna measure the lift on the cam to get an idea of what it is. It looks like I have a stock bore. I don't have a caliper and the pistons aren't stamped with a bore size. I put in an offer on ebay for a set of cometic's. 3.95" .030 thick mls gaskets.

[jray1]

Originally Posted by goatcheese

Well, I pulled the intake and a head off today and what did I see?? A felpro 8518pt looking at me... I can't believe they haven't had their door knocked down because of the their claim that this gasket works for a 326 or 350. Whoever built this engine put some money and work into it. The intake ports have been very nicely matched to the edelbrock performer intake. Even the throttle cable bracket is very fancy and heavy duty. I'm gonna measure the lift on the cam to get an idea of what it is. It looks like I have a stock bore. I don't have a caliper and the pistons aren't stamped with a bore size. I put in an offer on ebay for a set of cometic's. 3.95" .030 thick mls gaskets.

Well at least you seem to have a definite issue solver. Wish I could say the same.

[goatcheese]

Sounds like you may have a little air bubble issue but, doesn't sound too bad if you're driving it much without overheating now.

[rexs73gto]

The temps in the raditor is about right. The temps in the heads are about right, but the temps in the crossover is high because you have an air bubble in the water system. The rad is right because the rad is where it cools the water , & the heads are the hottests spot because that is where most all of the heat is produced. But that crossover is hot because it dosen't seem to have any water going through it, makeing it hotter. You should always run a car for a few min's with the cap off so all the air can get out but again if the heads or block is cracked your not going to solve your problem until you fix the problem. Now with the head gasket being blown it will stay hot. Go to your Napa parts storre & get the correct head gasket & NOT a copper one as that will only cause you problems in a short time as the copper is made for short time on & off again, not ment to stay a long time. Copper head gaskets are made for short term use under high performance use not for everyday use.

[jray1]

Originally Posted by rexs73gto

The temps in the raditor is about right. The temps in the heads are about right, but the temps in the crossover is high because you have an air bubble in the water system. The rad is right because the rad is where it cools the water , & the heads are the hottests spot because that is where most all of the heat is produced. But that crossover is hot because it dosen't seem to have any water going through it, makeing it hotter. You should always run a car for a few min's with the cap off so all the air can get out but again if the heads or block is cracked your not going to solve your problem until you fix the problem. Now with the head gasket being blown it will stay hot. Go to your Napa parts storre & get the correct head gasket & NOT a copper one as that will only cause you problems in a short time as the copper is made for short time on & off again, not ment to stay a long time. Copper head gaskets are made for short term use under high performance use not for everyday use.

Where could I have an air pocket if I have the thermostat gutted so its just a slight restriction and no holding the water back?

[1967Tempest]

Originally Posted by jray1

Where could I have an air pocket if I have the thermostat gutted so its just a slight restriction and no holding the water back?

You'd be surprised.

An easy way to make sure that there is no air bubble is to:

1: Drain the coolant to below the t-stat line.
2: Remove t-stat housing and gutted t-stat.
3. fill the water crossover with water until it is at the t-stat line.

At this point you could spin the water pump to see if the area from the intake manifold to the timing cover has fluid in it. or use a coat hanger to "stab" and air bubble if there was one.

Fart bubble in your butt is similar. Gotta move to pop it!!

[goatcheese]

Originally Posted by 1967Tempest

You'd be surprised.

An easy way to make sure that there is no air bubble is to:

1: Drain the coolant to below the t-stat line.
2: Remove t-stat housing and gutted t-stat.
3. fill the water crossover with water until it is at the t-stat line.

At this point you could spin the water pump to see if the area from the intake manifold to the timing cover has fluid in it. or use a coat hanger to "stab" and air bubble if there was one.

Fart bubble in your butt is similar. Gotta move to pop it!!

Perhaps the most informative yet simple and abraisive yet sensitive (being a coated hanger, could be used as a pick up line ) post I've read in a long time!

[jray1]

Originally Posted by 1967Tempest

You'd be surprised.

An easy way to make sure that there is no air bubble is to:

1: Drain the coolant to below the t-stat line.
2: Remove t-stat housing and gutted t-stat.
3. fill the water crossover with water until it is at the t-stat line.

At this point you could spin the water pump to see if the area from the intake manifold to the timing cover has fluid in it. or use a coat hanger to "stab" and air bubble if there was one.

Fart bubble in your butt is similar. Gotta move to pop it!!

Made me laugh.