[mgarblik]

Not a big fan of stamping delicate engine parts like connecting rods or main caps. If I stamp them, which I do sometimes, plan on resizing the housing bores. At a minimum, check therm before use. Stamping will distort them, especially aluminum rods. I much prefer using an engraver. Just another little trick I learned from the best, Joe Mondello and a few other "old timers". It's all about the details.

[Tom Vaught]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

Not a big fan of stamping delicate engine parts like connecting rods or main caps. If I stamp them, which I do sometimes, plan on resizing the housing bores. At a minimum, check therm before use. Stamping will distort them, especially aluminum rods. I much prefer using an engraver. Just another little trick I learned from the best, Joe Mondello and a few other "old timers". It's all about the details.

X2

I try to treat each part very carefully and check every part several times. I also use an engraver to mark parts, if necessary. I try to work on only one assembly at a time which keeps the possibility of mixing parts remote.

I do not build an engine when I am tired or in a hurry.

Tom Vaught

[65nss4spdGTO]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

Not a big fan of stamping delicate engine parts like connecting rods or main caps. If I stamp them, which I do sometimes, plan on resizing the housing bores. At a minimum, check therm before use. Stamping will distort them, especially aluminum rods. I much prefer using an engraver. Just another little trick I learned from the best, Joe Mondello and a few other "old timers". It's all about the details.

X2

I started engraving the last three digits of the block serial number on the caps just to make sure they don't get interchanged.

The newer IA-II caps are all drilled with two bolt bosses, I'll mount a fixture to assist in pulling the caps off.

I've seen a few cast caps crack because someone used the sledgehammer method or pulled up one side much more than the other.

Things happen when building custom race engine. IMO, it's how the company communicates and helps to resolve the issues that's most important.

Calvin Hill
Hill Performance
708-250-7420

[Tom Vaught]

Originally Posted by 65nss4spdGTO

X2

I started engraving the last three digits of the block serial number on the caps just to make sure they don't get interchanged.

Calvin Hill
Hill Performance
708-250-7420

I engrave "BE" on the #2 Cap. (Only need to mark one of them). The "E" points to the front of the engine.

You should know where the Rear Main Cap, the Thrust Main Cap, and the Front Main Cap go automatically. The only possible error would be mixing #2 and #3 and/or (putting them on backward. I have actually seen that happen).

Tom Vaught

[65nss4spdGTO]

Originally Posted by Tom Vaught

I engrave "BE" on the #2 Cap. (Only need to mark one of them). The "E" points to the front of the engine.

You should know where the Rear Main Cap, the Thrust Main Cap, and the Front Main Cap go automatically. The only possible error would be mixing #2 and #3 and/or (putting them on backward. I have actually seen that happen).

Tom Vaught

I mark them to match the block serial number as I've had as many as four different builds going on using the same style block.

Calvin Hill
Hill Performance
708-250-7420