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Old 11-16-2013, 11:21 PM
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njsteve njsteve is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob View Post
I wondered if you would notice, and would have bet that it did not get past your radar.

A couple of questions...What is the story on the leaf spring stencil? I assume that replicates original factory markings? Also, the brake lines on the rear axle are flex lines. Would they have been flex originally, or would they have been hard lines?

Thanks,

Bob
The leaf spring part number is painted from the same stencil I made for the 72 T/A which replicates the part number found on that car.

What do you mean by "flex line"? The correct coil spring wrapped steel lines run from each wheel cylinder to the brass block on top of the differential and then a rubber line goes vertically to the hard line above the fuel tank. That is the factory set up.

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Old 11-17-2013, 05:09 AM
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Bentwheelbob Bentwheelbob is offline
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Steve - I was asking about the coil spring line. My other cars all have standard steel lines at the axle. What dictated the use of a coil spring wrapped line on the F-Bodies?

HFR - very subtle. Sort of...

  #3  
Old 11-17-2013, 09:16 AM
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njsteve njsteve is offline
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Maybe your other car has aftermarket lines? Here's a photo of the original differential pulled out of my 1972 T/A. It had the factory coil wrapped lines in it.

And as an added bonus, a photo of the same car's leaf spring with the original part number, next to the restored spring.

And if you shop right now, you will get the actual Ronco Spring Stencil - it dices, it slices, it makes your springs look like new!

(Just enlarge the photo to make the ruler actual size and you have correct stencil)

:-)
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Old 11-17-2013, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by njsteve View Post
Maybe your other car has aftermarket lines? Here's a photo of the original differential pulled out of my 1972 T/A. It had the factory coil wrapped lines in it.
A mind is a terrible thing to waste. You are of course right on the brake line. Here is the 12 bolt I built last year to go in the Red Car when the engine gets swapped. Each day presents a new opportunity to learn.


  #5  
Old 11-17-2013, 12:28 PM
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Judge273 Judge273 is offline
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You still have time to finish it like the "perv or prevailing" method too....

On the right we have the cast iron paint for cast "pumkin" parts, and aluminum paint for steel "tube" parts, etc.

On the left add the black fog to back side for gm look.

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Old 11-25-2013, 08:25 PM
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Default Hemmings 1986

Still going through the stack of stuff NJSteve sent with the Black Car. Tonight I found a copy of the 1986 Hemmings ad that our Old Pal Lloyd from Texas found which was advertising the Black Car for sale. It's pretty cool, as is the main thread which centered on Lloyds hunt for a mythical GTO in old Hemmings. Lots of cool ads.

Here's the link to his post on the Black Car and a copy of the ad:

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...gs#post4717087




...and here is a link to the main post on Lloyds mythical hunt and a link to a side road the discussion took. It's worth a trip down memory lane. I miss Lloyd. He always had a lot to add that was worthwhile.



http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...light=hemmings

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...light=hemmings

Happy Thanksgiving Lloyd.
.

  #7  
Old 11-27-2013, 08:35 PM
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I spent most of the day killing time under the hood of the Black Car cleaning stuff up and straightening a few things out. I am planning to swap air cleaners at least temporarily so that I can blast and repaint the one on the car now. I have a nice "new" one I did for the red Car that I will put on it for the time being. However, I am perplexed by the vacuum hose routing. I can find nothing in the service manual or restoration guide. The existing air cleaner was not connected to a vacuum source. The vacuum fitting on the front drivers side of the manifold is capped off and there is nothing connected to the air cleaner. It seems like the vacuum source should connect to one side of the air inlet sensor mounted in the air cleaner and that that other nipple on that sensor should then connect to the two vacuum diaphrams. However, the way the hoses are currently hooked up has both vacuum diaphrams hooked to separate nipples on the air intake sensor (see picture label #1) and then there is a "t" fitting on one of the hoses going to the vacuum diaphrams (see picture label #2). My assumption is that this was intended for a hose to connect to that "t" fitting that was then connected on the other end to the vacuum source. This would mean however that one of the air cleaner intake flappers would always be open and the other would open when the car warmed up. Can anyone provide a diagram or some direction?

I have attached a second picture that shows the replacement vacuum hose set up I bought from PY. It appears to be designed the way I think seems correct - both vacuum actuators hooked to one side of the air inlet sensor, but the separate hose that I think would go to a vacuum source and the other side of the sensor is only about 6" long and won't come close to reaching the intake nipple on the front drivers side.

Lastly, I have a picture of the breather tube that was on the Black Car and the repop piece I bought from PY for the Red Car. I refinished the repop piece with black manganese from Palmetto, while the original is just bare metal. Which is correct? What about the difference in shape?






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