[Formulabruce]

This is why I always convert to Dot 5...
I have seen dot 3 eat through powder coat
The original crappy Alkyd Enamel ( vegetable oil based paint) paint didn't last long in this application, as put on thin, low resin, just to prevent rust at time of sale.
Should be able to nail it down anyways and make it right.
Finish: a Brake "weathering chart" for Alkyd enamel
New: gloss black 80%
1 year old semi gloss black
2 years old Spots of semi gloss and flat black
3 years old Flaking and spots of flat black and small spots of semi gloss
4 years old whats left mostly ruined by brake fluid in most areas and rusty looking
Good luck! Its winter, good time to nail this stuff down!

[70RAlll]

That Master looks like sh!t, no idea why it would have been done that glossy.. As far as the leaking..I think I have an idea why it is leaking. It is clear the bore has been sleeved with a brass liner.Two materials are used as sleeve liners, stainless or brass. Both work well, but the brass can be hard on the new seals when installing them. If you don't lubricate the rubber seals on the primary and secondary pistons during re assembly you will end up ripping them while installing them. I bet if you remove the primary and secondary pistons you will find some of the seals are ripped. I have used both stainless and brass sleeves- never seen a sleeve job not work...always the seals not the sleeve work. Brass always damages the seals if they and the bore are not heavily lubricated when assembling. NAPA or Ames/PY's will sell you a kit that has the new seals, simple to replace. And for the black paint, go on Amazon and search Rustoleum Semi Flat Black. That is the closest shade and quality paint, costs +/- $10 a can. That gloss just looks out of place in the engine compartment. Seems like someone's good idea gone bad on that black gloss finish..

[Bentwheelbob]

Originally Posted by Formulabruce

This is why I always convert to Dot 5...
I have seen dot 3 eat through powder coat
The original crappy Alkyd Enamel ( vegetable oil based paint) paint didn't last long in this application, as put on thin, low resin, just to prevent rust at time of sale.
Should be able to nail it down anyways and make it right.
Finish: a Brake "weathering chart" for Alkyd enamel
New: gloss black 80%
1 year old semi gloss black
2 years old Spots of semi gloss and flat black
3 years old Flaking and spots of flat black and small spots of semi gloss
4 years old whats left mostly ruined by brake fluid in most areas and rusty looking
Good luck! Its winter, good time to nail this stuff down!

Bruce - I love your "Chronology of Correctness" on the master cylinder finish. Your right about winter being a great time to catch up. I've been doing a lot of catching up over the holidays, having abandoned most of my work responsibilities. In addition to tooling around on some of the nit picky stuff on the Black Car, I have hung the Pontiac sign that I bought at Mecum last May (isn't that pitiful being that lazy), and also done a few things on the Green Truck that has its' own thread in the lobby. I have an electrical problem on the truck and if any of you electrical experts have any good advice I would appreciate the help. Here are a few pics of the "new" sign and the link to the truck thread. The last truck post #89 highlights my electrical issue.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...=727561&page=5

Originally Posted by 70RAlll

That Master looks like sh!t, no idea why it would have been done that glossy.. As far as the leaking..I think I have an idea why it is leaking. It is clear the bore has been sleeved with a brass liner.Two materials are used as sleeve liners, stainless or brass. Both work well, but the brass can be hard on the new seals when installing them. If you don't lubricate the rubber seals on the primary and secondary pistons during re assembly you will end up ripping them while installing them. I bet if you remove the primary and secondary pistons you will find some of the seals are ripped. I have used both stainless and brass sleeves- never seen a sleeve job not work...always the seals not the sleeve work. Brass always damages the seals if they and the bore are not heavily lubricated when assembling. NAPA or Ames/PY's will sell you a kit that has the new seals, simple to replace. And for the black paint, go on Amazon and search Rustoleum Semi Flat Black. That is the closest shade and quality paint, costs +/- $10 a can. That gloss just looks out of place in the engine compartment. Seems like someone's good idea gone bad on that black gloss finish..

Bill - I love the way you get right to the point. No doubt what you are thinking. That's a good thing. My Pal Dave had the same diagnosis as you on the master cylinder and was anxious to tear into it to see what they screwed up. However, since it's only been 6 months since White Post rebuilt it we'll let them have another crack to get it right on their dime. Thanks for the paint recommendation.

If I don''t have any other minutiae to post before New Years, here's my best wishes that everyone have a happy and prosperous New Year. My life is enriched by having the PY online community to help me when I am on the wrong track and to tolerate me when I want to share my successes. Thanks guys.

[Bentwheelbob]

How cool is this....So My Pal Dave has a buddy that got to clean out all the parts inventory at a local auto repair place several years ago courtesy of the owners widow. This place had been in business for at least 40 years. MPD's buddy has just been tripping over about 12 totes of parts every since then, so MPD cut a deal to send the totes over here for some basic sorting. More laziness on my part as this was last spring, but finally I am on the case. The first tote I started through today has an NOS GM door handle for the Black Car. This is a part that will be needed for the big paint transformation, so I am feeling particularly celebratory. I am about out of GM parts in the 4 totes I have here, so this is probably my big score. The stack you see in the picture are the parts that I think have some value. I believe the best course is to call a couple of the internet shops that carry obsolete NOS parts and see if they have an interest. Does anyone know any of these folks well enough to make an introduction or recommendation?

[70RAlll]

Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob

How cool is this....So My Pal Dave has a buddy that got to clean out all the parts inventory at a local auto repair place several years ago courtesy of the owners widow. This place had been in business for at least 40 years. MPD's buddy has just been tripping over about 12 totes of parts every since then, so MPD cut a deal to send the totes over here for some basic sorting. More laziness on my part as this was last spring, but finally I am on the case. The first tote I started through today has an NOS GM door handle for the Black Car. This is a part that will be needed for the big paint transformation, so I am feeling particularly celebratory. I am about out of GM parts in the 4 totes I have here, so this is probably my big score. The stack you see in the picture are the parts that I think have some value. I believe the best course is to call a couple of the internet shops that carry obsolete NOS parts and see if they have an interest. Does anyone know any of these folks well enough to make an introduction or recommendation?

Yes I second that. Chuck Henley deals in these NOS parts but he is a Pontiac guy thru and thru.Owns the 69 GTO RAV that was a dealer race car,originally a RAIV that dealer ordered the V and used for racing. That's just one of his cars, so that is the best place to turn these NOS parts into cash.AT least in my opinion.