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Old 04-28-2014, 01:33 PM
Dick Boneske's Avatar
Dick Boneske Dick Boneske is offline
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Making double flares is an acquired skill. All flaring tools are similar and will yield good results (unless they're worn out) once you get familiar with the procedure.

I am about to do this on my '96 Buick Roadmaster wagon---under the driver's side door where the line always rusts through first. Problem doing it on the car is finding an area where you can maneuver the tool. I'm tempted to replace the entire line from master cyl. to manifold block on the rear axle, but don't want to risk damaging the fitting in the rear.

Dumb question---Why does the front master cyl. reservoir empty when the rear brake line leaks?

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  #2  
Old 04-28-2014, 01:45 PM
Judas Judas is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dick Boneske View Post
Dumb question---Why does the front master cyl. reservoir empty when the rear brake line leaks?
Unsure. It's a good question IMO.

Well, I tried to do the best I could; making the clamp as tight as possible and lubricating everything with brake fluid as per the instructions. I had the "practice" of doing the whole car with some extra unions...and the results are "start over". Every line will have to be removed and redone- I dont think I saw one piece that was not leaking, except the rear axle but I bet they are not getting any fluid. I'll probably have to re-fab a few of the short lines since they wont be long enough after cutting off the bad flares.

I know a better tool won't instantly make me a master, but I am hoping it will at least improve the situation considerably. Btw, the car is not mobile so I can't take it to a pro.

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Last edited by Judas; 04-28-2014 at 01:46 PM. Reason: forgot a word
  #3  
Old 04-29-2014, 08:22 AM
pontiac1981's Avatar
pontiac1981 pontiac1981 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dick Boneske View Post
Making double flares is an acquired skill. All flaring tools are similar and will yield good results (unless they're worn out) once you get familiar with the procedure.

I am about to do this on my '96 Buick Roadmaster wagon---under the driver's side door where the line always rusts through first. Problem doing it on the car is finding an area where you can maneuver the tool. I'm tempted to replace the entire line from master cyl. to manifold block on the rear axle, but don't want to risk damaging the fitting in the rear.

Dumb question---Why does the front master cyl. reservoir empty when the rear brake line leaks?
The front reservoir on the master is for the rear brakes and the rear reservoir is for the front brakes, it has something to do with the pedal rod pressure to the master cylinder.

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