[Judas]

It seems that in the world of brake flaring tools, you have 2 options:

Cheap, useless junk
Expensive tool that works...but you'll likely use it 1 - 2 times in your lifespan if you don't work as a mechanic. I am not a mechanic.

I went to my local McParts and was informed they have a 15$ tool and a (supposedly) better 35$ tool. Fearful or both but not having options, I took the 35$ tool. I found no visible difference between it and the even cheaper model. Working carefully and even using vise grips to tighten the large wingnuts ("push through" is a major problem with these) I set about fabricating new brake lines for 69 GTO with aftermarket 4-wheel disc brakes and adj. proportion valve.

A full 50% of the flares leak, one is pouring.

So, before plunking down nearly 200$ for the good tool, I was wondering if anyone in south-central PA (York area) or central MD (Baltimore) might have one to borrow or rent? You can PM me if you like.

-J

[Dick Boneske]

Making double flares is an acquired skill. All flaring tools are similar and will yield good results (unless they're worn out) once you get familiar with the procedure.

I am about to do this on my '96 Buick Roadmaster wagon---under the driver's side door where the line always rusts through first. Problem doing it on the car is finding an area where you can maneuver the tool. I'm tempted to replace the entire line from master cyl. to manifold block on the rear axle, but don't want to risk damaging the fitting in the rear.

Dumb question---Why does the front master cyl. reservoir empty when the rear brake line leaks?

[Judas]

Originally Posted by Dick Boneske

Dumb question---Why does the front master cyl. reservoir empty when the rear brake line leaks?

Unsure. It's a good question IMO.

Well, I tried to do the best I could; making the clamp as tight as possible and lubricating everything with brake fluid as per the instructions. I had the "practice" of doing the whole car with some extra unions...and the results are "start over". Every line will have to be removed and redone- I dont think I saw one piece that was not leaking, except the rear axle but I bet they are not getting any fluid. I'll probably have to re-fab a few of the short lines since they wont be long enough after cutting off the bad flares.

I know a better tool won't instantly make me a master, but I am hoping it will at least improve the situation considerably. Btw, the car is not mobile so I can't take it to a pro.

[Evil Stu]

I just bend a piece of coat hangar and take the pattern to a local hydraulic shop. Guy there lives with the flarer and bender in his hands. Beautiful lines and not too $$

[geeteeohguy]

What Dick said. I've used a little Blue Point (Snap On) flare tool for the last 35 years or so. You can pick them up used, probably on ebay even. They look like the cheap ones, but the alloys are better and they don't slip when doing the flare. It takes practice, which you can do on a piec of brake line. Go slow, and then cut the line and do a few more until they are uniform. If the double flare is uniform and concentric, it will not leak. But, like welding or any fabrication, there is a learning curve. Don't flare your 'real' brake lines until you can get perfect looking flares on the section of practice line. As for the master cyl resivoir, the smallest compartment usually feeds rear drum brakes. The larger compartment feeds the front discs. They are just backwards in their position on many cars.

[East]

NAPA has different sizes and lengths of tubing that are already flared.

I also bought the tools to make a fuel line from pump to Q-jet but could not exactly duplicate purchased fuel line at the short bend at carb.

My double flare leaked at carb but fuel pump was good.

I chose to buy the pre-flared tubing and use that for a fuel line to avoid a fire hazard from my attempt.

The tubing is not that expensive and you only need to worry about having a working tube bender. I bought my tube bender from AutoZone. It was the aluminum model without the pop riveted wheel that snapped off on the first bender that I bought.

[indymanjoe]

Make sure the inside of the line is free of burs,i also use a small file to clean it.

[Dick Boneske]

What indymanjoe said is critical. Careful preparation of the end of the tube is essential to a good flare, especially a double flare. File or sand the end of the tube flat and deburr the inside and outside before using the flaring tool.

Interesting--I also have a Snap-On flaring tool like geeteeohguy has. Been using it since 1981. The tapered portion is getting worn, but overall, the tool has held up well after hundreds of flares, although they were mostly aluminum tubing, not Bundyweld like brake lines.

[zeebo]

i was thinking in the future to buy the nice hand held hydraulic flaring tool. buddy did his car with one..no leaks..not one. tho i live close to inline tube, and they have done all my pump to carb lines nicer and about as cheap as i could do them. probably use them for brake lines someday.

[geeteeohguy]

Yes, good point, guys. The tubing end to be flared must be dead straight, too, not cut off on even a slight angle, or the flare won't work. The area must be clean, straight, and true. Dick, what I like about the little Snap On tool is that I've used it a lot with the line to be repaired still on the car. It fits very well in small spaces. And, after 30 years, the value is definitely there!!

[george kujanski]

I recently did all of the brake lines on my 2001 Yukon with the Mastercool hand hydraulic unit. yep, more expensive, but it works. even did stainless with it. I figured I'm going to redo my GTO also with stainless so I dropped the $ for the hydraulic one.

Nothing worse than a useless tool...spend money, do a terrible job, spend more money.........

BTW, less of a push-thru problem with the cheap tool if you use a vise to clamp it.

George

[Judas]

With the "slightly less crappy" 35$ version of the tool, push through wasnt a problem if I tightened down the big-wing nuts using a vise-grip to get more torque on it. Thats the only difference I really see between this and the bottom-barrel 15$ units- the machining/tolerances are slightly better. I was deburring and filing btw, but I guess its just lack of experience.

I do like the idea of perhaps using some off-the-shelf pieces where the lengths are close. Obviously, I can't do that with the big front-rear length (unless I want tons of unions, which I don't). Theres this new alloy for tubes...forget its composition...but it appears black. The local McParts has been pushing them; says they are really easy to work and resist corrostion. Think it was some kinda nickle-copper deal.

-J

[Hammertime Mike]

Originally Posted by george kujanski

I recently did all of the brake lines on my 2001 Yukon with the Mastercool hand hydraulic unit. yep, more expensive, but it works. even did stainless with it. I figured I'm going to redo my GTO also with stainless so I dropped the $ for the hydraulic one.

Nothing worse than a useless tool...spend money, do a terrible job, spend more money.........

BTW, less of a push-thru problem with the cheap tool if you use a vise to clamp it.

George

I ended up buying the Mastercool hand hydraulic unit. My breaking point was trying to double flare a stainless line on one of my projects. Yes, it's hard to justify the money to use a tool once. I'm very happy with mine.

[Peter Serio]

I have made all new steel brake lines from long tubing and the fittings (the whole car) for several old cars that I have owned. Two things that I do which really seem to help is: 1) when you trim or cut your steel line to length (as a few people have said before) de-burr the inner part of the tubing and I also radius the outside of the tube, this really helps the double flair form correctly. 2) I use a drop or 2 of fresh brake fluid as lubrication on both the bell-form insert and again on the final pointed tip when forming the double-flair into the steel.

Making really nice brake lines from scratch is an art-form & just like any other skill you can get better at it with practice.

[DOC]

I went through Right Stuff Brakes and ordered all new front lines that were perfect pre-bent, had the coil wire wrap and it was cheaper than ordering the nice flaring tool. BTW, if you get Right stuff part numbers and check summit racing they have most of them cheaper.

Just a thought....

[indymanjoe]

Originally Posted by Peter Serio

I have made all new steel brake lines from long tubing and the fittings (the whole car) for several old cars that I have owned. Two things that I do which really seem to help is: 1) when you trim or cut your steel line to length (as a few people have said before) de-burr the inner part of the tubing and I also radius the outside of the tube, this really helps the double flair form correctly. 2) I use a drop or 2 of fresh brake fluid as lubrication on both the bell-form insert and again on the final pointed tip when forming the double-flair into the steel.

Making really nice brake lines from scratch is an art-form & just like any other skill you can get better at it with practice.

Nailed it.Radiusing the outer edge,lubricating just a drop or 2 makes a better result.Had'nt thought of the small steps ya take to get it done right,leak free.Practice, experiment,learn etc..

[george kujanski]

i used the nickel-copper stuff on my Yukon...it's slightly copper colored and easy to work with. I think the black stuff is coated steel.

George

[Dick Boneske]

Normal brake lines from the factory is "Bundyweld Tubing." It is not seamless, but actually seamed steel with a copper inside layer. It bends much better than pure steel tubing.

Too bad it rusts.

[400 4spd.]

If anyone is finished with a Mastercool and wants to sell, let me know.

[rohrt]

I spoke with inline tube when I attempted to do my own SS lines. You guys covered all the tips pretty well that they gave me. Radius the outside, debure the inside, a few drops of fluid as a lubricant. What I found very helpful was they mentioning how to tighten the line down. Seat it down, and back off a couple of times. This will allow the softer brass cone fitting to form a tighter seal and get a half a turn or more.