[Bentwheelbob]

Okay, so I have a radiator question. The Gold Car is a W72, 4 speed, A/C car with a radiator code on the build sheet of FD*L. It does not have HD cooling. The radiator in the car is a 3 core with no visible markings or tags that I can discern. What would be the correct radiator based on this information and where should it have markings? The radiator certainly looks original, but who knows.....

Related to this, I noticed while checking it out that the two lower radiator shroud bolts are missing. If anyone has a couple I am in the market.

[Alvin]

Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob

Okay, so I have a radiator question. The Gold Car is a W72, 4 speed, A/C car with a radiator code on the build sheet of FD*L. It does not have HD cooling. The radiator in the car is a 3 core with no visible markings or tags that I can discern. What would be the correct radiator based on this information and where should it have markings? The radiator certainly looks original, but who knows.....

Related to this, I noticed while checking it out that the two lower radiator shroud bolts are missing. If anyone has a couple I am in the market.

Bob, looking @ our '78 W72 4-spd WS6 w A/C Martini Blu Bld sheet now:

the Rad code is "FA*L"
Hoses "LU NT"
with code "VO2 HD COOLING"
the OEM Rad was a 3-core that I replaced w a 4-core back when I first purchased it...

Van Nuys Build BTW.

[Alvin]

Originally Posted by Alvin

Bob, looking @ our '78 W72 4-spd WS6 w A/C Martini Blu Bld sheet now:

the Rad code is "FA*L"
Hoses "LU NT"
with code "VO2 HD COOLING"
the OEM Rad was a 3-core that I replaced w a 4-core back when I first purchased it...

Van Nuys Build BTW.

Another (non-Y88) '78 VN W72 4-spd Build Sheet From Roundport @ his new thread link HERE

image below w Rad Code "FY*L"

[Bentwheelbob]

FY*L on Roundports build sheet is interesting because the 1978 service manual shows the FY designation as correct for a 350ci manual without a/c or the super cooling option. It has a capacity of 17.2. The 400ci manual without A/C or super cooling is listed as code FR with a capacity of 19.7.

My car is listed as FD which corresponds to the build sheet and has a capacity of 20.3.

I still am looking for two lower shroud bolts and information as to where the radiator code can be found on the tank.

[roundportponchos]

To anyone on board, that help. Based on my build sheet,, do I need a FY, rad fo r a 350. Is the FY, embossed on tank. That may be why, car has a 4 core in now. Does anyone think, it was mistake from factory
Which one should I be searching for?



OTE=Bentwheelbob;5237096]FY*L on Roundports build sheet is interesting because the 1978 service manual shows the FY designation as correct for a 350ci manual without a/c or the super cooling option. It has a capacity of 17.2. The 400ci manual without A/C or super cooling is listed as code FR with a capacity of 19.7.

My car is listed as FD which corresponds to the build sheet and has a capacity of 20.3.

I still am looking for two lower shroud bolts and information as to where the radiator code can be found on the tank.[/QUOTE]

[roundportponchos]

I just thought of this, not sure if my logic correct, but since car sold new in Canada, would that have any bearing?

[Bentwheelbob]

One out of three isn't bad in baseball...Today I was hoping to get the door hinge detent roller installed, the window aligned, and the body side molding installed. Today I got the detent roller installed and I'm not so sure it isn't a worse job than replacing the heater core. I'm sure MPD would agree.

We hoped to remove the door hinge and replace the roller without taking the door off. We finally got the hinge out, but had to loosen the lower hinge bolts to do so. Installing the new roller went well - very straight forward and it fit well even though it was not made for a '78 FBody. While the hinge was out we replaced the bushings and that was a little more difficult as the pins had been replaced before and instead of securing the pin with a clip it had been tack welded in place. That finally got remedied and the real fun started.

We had slotted the rear mounting hole on the hinge so that the rear bolt could be started and then the hinge slid into place. We tried for about 30 minutes to get the right angle and never could. Finally we gave up and just took the door totally off. We had secured the door before starting with binder straps and a floor jack, so once we got the door loose it was pretty easy to manage and things went much better. It took a while to get things lined up after that, but it all came together. The door stays open, has zero sag, and opens and closes with no drag. The job, however, was a real drag...

A few tips before the pictures.

1) Don't kid yourself about doing this with the door on. Take it off.
2) Get the longest 7/16" wrench you can. We had Joey at The Welding Shop make one up for us when went to get the pin replaced.
3) Get a door spring compressor. MPD had one thank goodness.
4) Use plenty of tape. We taped with painters tape and then added a layer or two of gorilla tape and nothing got damaged.







The new roller



The custom wrench and spring compressor